Hands on review of the Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second limited edition

Oct 20, 2015,12:24 PM
 

It is always surprising to discover watches from very well known brands just when they become available at the  boutiques. When I say "discover", I use the original meaning of the verb that is to say - learn of their existence. That's what just happened to me a few days ago with Montblanc while visiting its boutique corner at the Galeries Lafayette. Actually, I had the wish to try again the Heritage Spirit Terrarum Orbis (one of my fav watches of the SIHH 2015) when a watch that was completely unknown to me caught my eye.  It is the logo that intrigued me. The famous star with six rounded contours was replaced by the historic logo, which instantly gave a little originality to the watch.


1858 Manual Small Second


To be honest with you, if the word Mont Blanc (in two parts) was not written on the dial, I would have been unable to guess its brand. The watch belongs to the 1858 line that celebrates the date of the creation of the Minerva Manufacture in Villeret. This line, to my knowledge, is not part of any collection of the catalog and also stands out clearly from the aesthetic point of view. It is composed of 3 similar watches (plus a pink gold chronograph using a Villeret caliber) whose main features are a black dial, luminescent "cathedral" hands and numerals, a small second hand at 6 o'clock and a steel case with a 44mm diameter.



The watch I photographed is from a limited series of 858 pieces. It is distinguished by the "off white with patina" rendering  of the luminescent material and the use of an alligator leather strap; the other two watches are equipped with either a Milanese mesh bracelet or a calfskin strap. The combination between the cathedral hands and the luminescent numerals immediately make us think about the pilot's watches of the first half of the twentieth century which have been an almost inexhaustible source of inspiration for many brands, either well-known (Zenith, Longines, Alpina and others) or obscure (Altanus for example). As such, the Montblanc 1858 differs little from its equivalents  because this style exercise leaves relatively little room to maneuver.




The room to maneuver  is also very limited regarding the movement, since I found without any surprise (and with pleasure) the Unitas 6498 caliber which has at least the virtue of being adapted to the case diameter. The finishing of the movement is basic and it is a pity that Montblanc merely did the minimum (Geneva stripes, blued screws) to pay homage to the Minerva Manufacture. On the other hand, the rendering of the movement, which generously fills the case is consistent with the spirit of the watch.

The steel case is nicely finished and I appreciated  the work on the lugs which brings a touch of fluidity to the whole design. Similarly, the crown is pleasant to handle and its size remains reasonable which is an excellent point for manual winding watch. If the black dial decreases the perceived diameter of the watch, the latter remains impressive on the wrist. But after all, it was the sought objective with such inspiration.



This Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second  therefore gave me a mixed feeling. It surprises me by the special place it occupies in the Montblanc catalog. Designed and assembled with a lot of care, it does not suffer any major criticism. However, it faces an extremely fierce competition in this niche because its price which exceeds 3,000 euros is not competitive for this type of watch powered by an Unitas caliber. Montblanc has led me to believe it could be much more efficient on this specific price point in recent years. I regret that Montblanc  didn't take the opportunity to propose a more ambitious watch with, for example, an officer case or with a movement with more rewarding decoration.

Thanks to the team Montblanc team of the Galeries Lafayette.

Pros:
+ A consistent watch done with care
+ The case finishes
+ The little touch of originality provided by the logo
+ The "patina" rendering of the numerals and luminous hands of this limited series

Cons:
- The basic decoration of the movement
- The price makes the watch uncompetitive compared to equivalent pieces from the competition, which is surprising from Montblanc.

Fx


This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-10-21 05:57:12

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Comments: view entire thread 

Lovely looking watch but...

 
By: KMII : October 20th, 2015-12:38
... I still feel it is an opportunity missed. First I thought that MB was bringing back Minerva as a brand - they had a similar looking Pythagore Aviation, also with cathedral hands and lume. That one came with a Minerva Cal. 48 movement, which was probab... 

Actually with a Minerva 48 movement, you would not have the same price!

 
By: foversta : October 20th, 2015-13:01
Market has changed and such movement would be found in a much more expensive watch, not to mention that due to its availability, the LE would be very limited. So I agree with your final comments... maybe one day we will have a more limited edition in the ... 

Would the movement be so much more expensive to manufacture?

 
By: KMII : October 20th, 2015-13:32
Not claiming to understand watch making economics in any detail but that movement must have had all the development expenses covered long ago, the machinery written off equally long ago and not so massively more manual labour involved? Or is it the scarci... 

Thank for the great review, as always Fx.

 
By: Mark in Paris : October 29th, 2015-08:54
The watch looks quite nice from the front side, reminding older vintage watches (and the chrono looks great with its movement) but the Backside of this one.... erf. I think they created a very nice image for the "Villeret 1858" tag with the previous editi... 

Can you tell us more about the new historic logo?

 
By: Tick Talk : November 4th, 2015-07:40
Robin, I can't seem to find any historic reference to this mountain logo. MB registered the name in 1910 and AFAIK the star was their first symbol in 1913. When was the mountain symbol used and on what product? On a side note, I would be thrilled to know ... 

Water resistance of the 1858 manual small seconds

 
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : November 6th, 2015-04:51
Is 30 meters only so not suitable for sports activities such as swimming. Dean, I think you need another watch which is like 100m water resistance. I am hoping Montblanc upgrades the water resistance of their Timewalker line which can be worn for sports I... 

A classic Minerva design

 
By: Tick Talk : November 8th, 2015-08:41
Inspired by the comments in this thread I did look for, and find, the vintage Minerva watches that inspired this design, although as already mentioned it was a common military spec. Nevertheless, its a big step for Montblanc to substitute their name on a ... 

Montblanc HQ has not gotten back to me on the logo yet Dean

 
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : November 9th, 2015-04:10
I will follow up As for the Minerva name, to be honest, I am very proud to see the Minerva brand and logo on my Villeret movement. The name is there to stay A proud heritage and if Montblanc ever removes the Minerva brand from the Villeret movements... I ... 

Any word yet, Robin

 
By: Tick Talk : November 17th, 2015-08:21
Seems like a long pause for a simple query! Still very interested in knowing the history the MB logo which appears on this watch.

No response from MB HQ yet on my email

 
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : November 17th, 2015-08:23
Will follow up again Sorry been busy at work lately Dean so forgot to follow up with them Cheers Robin

The Montblanc logo on the 1858 collection

 
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : November 18th, 2015-04:50
Was the old logo of Montblanc since 1912 Here is a pic from MB HQ where this logo is used on their writing instruments Hope this helps Dean Cheers Robin ...  

Perfect, that is awesome!

 
By: Tick Talk : November 18th, 2015-06:54
Wonderful documentation of this symbol now used to connect the brand with watches and featuring my favorite theme; mountains. Thanks for checking, Robin

Oh yes you love trekking I recall :)

 
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : November 18th, 2015-23:26
Glad you like the logo. It\'s quite romantic to see logos of the past used on current watches or other lifestyle products Cheers Robin