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The First Gold for Sarpaneva - The Korona RG
"As far as my friends are concerned, I am doing really useless stuff..." – Stepan Sarpaneva.
Indeed an encouraging remark!
However the bold Stepan Sarpaneva who descends from a family of famous designers, still embarked on his watchmaking journey without knowing what the future holds.
In 1999 he made his first watch, the 'TIME TRAMP' (which he still wears sometimes) was made from a pinion gear from his first HARLEY-DAVIDSON, a 1962 PAN SHOVEL and the movement from his first employer, the Piaget Cal.9P manual-wind ultra-thin (2.00mm, introduced in 1956).
Model : TIME TRAMP
Determined to open an alternative to 'Swiss Made' and plant a flag of "Made in Finland", he continued to manufacture a few small number quantity models since 2003 like Salpa, Oiva, S.U.F Komentaja, Loiste, Supernova to the more current Korona Series. All these previous models were made in premium stainless tool steels.
To commemorate a milestone of his adventurous 10th year journey, he decided to make the first model in precious metal - Gold, for the model, SARPANEVA KORONA RG AND KORONA WG. Timing is just right, as many of his clients have asked for gold watches. The more sentimental reason is also to continue on his father's passion ( a famous jewellery designer) to create jewelery items, be it individual items or combined with watches, which naturally requires him to work with precious metals.
Coincidentally last couple of weeks, met up with the Sarpaneva exclusive distributor for Asia, Haute5 and they have the Korona RG and Korona K3 Black Moon.
An opportunity to have a closer look of both models and take some pictures.
The First 18K Gold Case of Sarpaneva
The case for the Korona series from K1 to K3 is the largest in Sarpeneva family at diameter 44mm. Earlier models from the Loiste to Supernova, the case has grown from diameter 37mm to 40 mm.
As for the the new Korona RG, the new case diameter settles in between the previous 40mm and the recent 44mm at 42mm, "just right for today’s tastes", per Stepan's findings.
The new 3-piece case of the Korona RG did not reuse the signature Korona K3's 6-scallop-cut bezel, instead it boldly
scallop-cut through the thickness of the case similar to the earlier Loiste.
Loiste II
The lugs are lightly brush-finished. A slightly heavier brushing may give a better contrast with the full gloss case and crown.
The first step requires creating a drawing six times actual size, followed by cutting a rough model from plate stock, one piece corresponding to each level of elevation of the oversized model.
These parts are then fixed together to form the model plate for the pantograph, which will mill the various outlines of the model into a small piece of copper in the actual size of the Moonphase.
Milling out the the moonphase shape onto the copper electrode.
After touched up by Mr.Heikki Hartikainen, the surface of the copper electrode is microblasted to create the texture (as shown above).
A close up view of the negative image on the die.
A trial stamped piece for Mr.Heikki Hartikainen to know where to touch up on the die.
Note there are no eyeballs on the trial stamped piece, read on.
Before flipping over to see the movement side, a picture of the 10.1 mm side profile of the luxurious Korona RG.
18K gold see-through caseback with 2 screws per cardinal location securing the 3-piece case.
Just nice for my wrist size.
Observe how the straps flow from the lugs. Just right and the lugs are not protruding outward.
Another picture will be clearer.
Last hole for me, Sarpaneva may wish to check the wrist size. This straps are too long for my small wrist.
This is an important picture, the lugs are just behind the straps and not jutting out which is unsightly.
Wonderful lugs design!
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-05-23 20:05:53
Updated thickness of case.
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-05-24 11:24:32 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-05-29 05:57:54 This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-08-25 00:50:55
scallop-cut through the thickness of the case similar to the earlier Loiste.
Loiste II
The lugs are lightly brush-finished. A slightly heavier brushing may give a better contrast with the full gloss case and crown.
The lugs are shortened (compared to other K3), such that shaped straps form a continuous seamless connection flowing out from the caseband.
A closer look. The metal lug and leather strap seem to be 'fused' together.
The whole glorious crown is high-gloss polished.
Observing carefully the crown is shaped like miniaturized case!
The Dial, Hands & Moon Phase(Face)
A pair of unique microblasted frost arrow-hands with the 'fat bellies' as counterweight complementing the textured 18K moon-faces.
A closer look. The metal lug and leather strap seem to be 'fused' together.
Note the picture above, the shaped-straps hugged the circumference of the caseband leaving no pockets in between. Normally at both 6 and 12 o'clock positions, as the straps may rub against the caseband, and after a while, abrasion marks would appear on the straps.
With the cut-through-scallops, the high tangential rub-points are removed. With less contact areas, the straps could swing smoothly without the screeching sound 
.
. The 1.5 mm sapphire per specification is anti-reflective (AR) coated on the second surface. Unsure of the reason/s of not coating both sides of the sapphire as it is still reflective at a certain angle.
The Sarpaneva logo was printed on the second surface of the sapphire crystal too. If the logo is a symmetrical monogram instead of text, it extends the flexibility of Korona to be worn with crown pointing inward.
An image of wearing the Korona with the crown facing in. Preferably on days other than around the new and full moon.
Otherwise the Korona RG would look interesting with an upside-down moonphase.
An image of wearing the Korona with the crown facing in. Preferably on days other than around the new and full moon.
Otherwise the Korona RG would look interesting with an upside-down moonphase.
The whole glorious crown is high-gloss polished.
Observing carefully the crown is shaped like miniaturized case!
The concave bezel with the scalloped edges are perfectly aligned with the caseband. That's explain for the new screw pattern with more screws on the caseback (picture of caseback is at the bottom of this post).
The Dial, Hands & Moon Phase(Face)
A pair of unique microblasted frost arrow-hands with the 'fat bellies' as counterweight complementing the textured 18K moon-faces.
The beautifully thin (0.3mm) skeletonized dial resembles the tree grill were laser-cut. Total there are 260 slots, which require to be individually hand filed and polished, on both sides of the dial, to prevent any unwanted reflection from burrs causing uneven visual effect.
First question, many would ask for reason about Sarpaneva's K3 sombre and melancholy moon-face.
An explanation by Stepan:
“You know, here in Finland, we are not a very extrovert kind of people. Maybe it has to do with our past history, as well as the cold combined with the extremely long winter nights and the extremely long summer days. You have to learn to remain in balance. So everyone here floats around with an aura of slight melancholy – I don’t know how else to describe it.
So for me a smiling moon was out of the question, also because a Moonphase smiling all the time is too much like those yellow smiley faces (emoticons) they put in emails.
This Moon has an aura of aristocratic melancholy; with a bit of indecision as to whether he is basically happy or sad in nature. The expression of the Moon on my watches just ‘is’ – same as the Finnish people here.”
First question, many would ask for reason about Sarpaneva's K3 sombre and melancholy moon-face.
An explanation by Stepan:
“You know, here in Finland, we are not a very extrovert kind of people. Maybe it has to do with our past history, as well as the cold combined with the extremely long winter nights and the extremely long summer days. You have to learn to remain in balance. So everyone here floats around with an aura of slight melancholy – I don’t know how else to describe it.
So for me a smiling moon was out of the question, also because a Moonphase smiling all the time is too much like those yellow smiley faces (emoticons) they put in emails.
This Moon has an aura of aristocratic melancholy; with a bit of indecision as to whether he is basically happy or sad in nature. The expression of the Moon on my watches just ‘is’ – same as the Finnish people here.”
A peek at an angle, the edges of all the slots are free of burrs. Indeed require skilled laborious effort. That's not over yet as the rotor mounting is of the same tree grill design. It is double the effort!
While reading the press release material, Stepan mentioned that creating the moonphase is as complex as conceptualizing the moonphase mechanism.
The challenge is having four levels of elevation on a 0.4 mm thin 18K gold material.
Curious to find out more, I prepared the above picture with indication of each layer and emailed to Haute5 to enquire more from Stepan about the processes.
Stepan later sent over a few pictures to share with all of us the processes of creating a moonphase disc.
Curious to find out more, I prepared the above picture with indication of each layer and emailed to Haute5 to enquire more from Stepan about the processes.
Stepan later sent over a few pictures to share with all of us the processes of creating a moonphase disc.
This copper version, which will serve later as an electrode, is then cleaned up and ‘fine-tuned’ by Master Engraver Mr.Heikki Hartikainen.
After touched up by Mr.Heikki Hartikainen, the surface of the copper electrode is microblasted to create the texture (as shown above).
Next is to electro-etch the contours into a steel-pressing block, thus creating a negative image of the face, called die.
A close up view of the negative image on the die.
A trial stamped piece for Mr.Heikki Hartikainen to know where to touch up on the die.
Note there are no eyeballs on the trial stamped piece, read on.
Last but not least, the eyes are modeled by hand into the negative image and the whole is finished by the Master Engraver and diamond polished before undergoing hardening, followed by yet another polishing before proceed to stamp out the 18K gold moonphase pieces.
Movement
Before flipping over to see the movement side, a picture of the 10.1 mm side profile of the luxurious Korona RG.
18K gold see-through caseback with 2 screws per cardinal location securing the 3-piece case.
The base caliber is A10 from movement manufacturer, Soprod S.A. It is then further modified at the Sarpaneva workshop and fitted with the moonphase mechanism designed and built by Sarpaneva. The uniqueness is the easy moonphase adjustment through the crown instead of typical push-pin on the side of the caseband.
The crown has 2 setting. The first pull-out is for the moonphase adjustment while the second pull-out is for hour and minute.
Though the press material mentioned the entire movement is re-finished, it is not easy to observe through the skeletonized dial and rotor, but the perlage done on the bridges and main-plate is visible.
The crown has 2 setting. The first pull-out is for the moonphase adjustment while the second pull-out is for hour and minute.
Though the press material mentioned the entire movement is re-finished, it is not easy to observe through the skeletonized dial and rotor, but the perlage done on the bridges and main-plate is visible.
The rotor is also decorated with a 18K gold moonphase disc which besides for aesthetic reason, it also functional to be the rotor mass as the density of gold is high which many companies have done. More importantly, is to balance the design with both the front dial and back caseback has the presence of the moonphase
Unable to test the rate of the watch as it does not have a second hand and it would be unfair to estimate.
Buckle & Straps
The Ardillon buckle comes with crocodilian leather shaped (at the lug ends) straps .
The buckle is brush-finished 18K gold with a glossy pin, similar texture scheme as the case, just that for the buckle, the bigger surface area is brushed while on the case the smaller lugs are brushed.
Surprisingly the buckle is not monogrammed but marked with the signature scallop cutoff.
The buckle is brush-finished 18K gold with a glossy pin, similar texture scheme as the case, just that for the buckle, the bigger surface area is brushed while on the case the smaller lugs are brushed.
Surprisingly the buckle is not monogrammed but marked with the signature scallop cutoff.
WristShots
Size is about 160mm /6.3 "
Just nice for my wrist size.
Observe how the straps flow from the lugs. Just right and the lugs are not protruding outward.
Another picture will be clearer.
Last hole for me, Sarpaneva may wish to check the wrist size. This straps are too long for my small wrist.
This is an important picture, the lugs are just behind the straps and not jutting out which is unsightly.
Wonderful lugs design!
The design of the watch, dial and movement have their own uniqueness. The colour scheme of rose gold with a cool grey skeletonized dial blends well.
Initially have issue reading the time. After realising, to take reference from the outermost ring, it is a breeze.
The important point is with the shorter lug-design and the 'just right' 42 mm diameter, the Korona RG looks good and seat snugly on small wrist. Indirectly, it could be appealing to ladies.
A sensitive point, from the perspective of the list price, there may be many competitive pieces. I guess the audience for the Korona RG would be people who seek exclusiveness and/or to support an independent watchmaker.
Kong
Related Posts :
SARPANEVA Korona K3 Black Moon
Sarpaneva: Man or Machine?
Stepan Sarpaneva – An introduction to the Man and his Watches (V1)
Stepan Sarpaneva - The Man (V2)
Sarpaneva: Finland, Family and Design
Helsinki Black Moon Ceremony
Initially have issue reading the time. After realising, to take reference from the outermost ring, it is a breeze.
The important point is with the shorter lug-design and the 'just right' 42 mm diameter, the Korona RG looks good and seat snugly on small wrist. Indirectly, it could be appealing to ladies.
A sensitive point, from the perspective of the list price, there may be many competitive pieces. I guess the audience for the Korona RG would be people who seek exclusiveness and/or to support an independent watchmaker.
Kong
Related Posts :
SARPANEVA Korona K3 Black Moon
Sarpaneva: Man or Machine?
Stepan Sarpaneva – An introduction to the Man and his Watches (V1)
Stepan Sarpaneva - The Man (V2)
Sarpaneva: Finland, Family and Design
Helsinki Black Moon Ceremony
Updated thickness of case.
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-05-24 11:24:32 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-05-29 05:57:54 This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-08-25 00:50:55
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The First Gold for Sarpaneva - The Korona RG
For the press release, please click here. "As far as my friends are concerned, I am doing really useless stuff..." – Stepan Sarpaneva. Indeed an encouraging remark! However the bold Stepan Sarpaneva who descends from a family of famous designers, still em...
Thanks for the review Kong
The polishing of the case edges and scalloping bring out the beauty of this uniquely shaped case. I find the WG and RG cases visually more pleasing than the brushed steel cases. Love your part of the Sarpaneva moonphase and the design process to create it...
Thank A...
Among the Korona models, I prefer the look of the Black Moon. For the making of the moonphase, thanks to Stepan for sharing the pictures. The process is very similar to coin-minting. Kong
What a review !!
and a fantastic design ! Thanks for this informative post ... . Filip
Superb post kong !
It was a great pleasure to read your post. I'm in love with the Korona. Here are some pics I took in Basel: And on Stepan's wrist (WG version): Fr.Xavier This message has been edited by foversta on 2009-05-23 12:29:43...
FX, your hand looks like mine!
Thanks for the pictures. Added the Basel 2009 link to the related posts. Kong
Excellent review Kong. I think the contrast provided by RG
helps to bring out even more in this piece. I do find the expressions of the moonphases to show some angst but very nice regardless.
not angst but concern
... or from the inside looking outside ---------------- It just hit me. I am inside the watch, or actually am the watch. The expression of the moon is the expression of the watchmaker himself - in this case Stepan - working on me, the watch. I observe him...
A TRULY BEAUTIFUL WATCH
Thanks Kong Its a real beauty - stunning in every aspect BTW who is the AD for this brand in Singapore?
At the moment ...
Thanks VPREGULATOR. To my knowledge, there is no AD in Singapore yet. Haute 5 is the exclusive AD for Asia (per Sarpaneva's website) and they are located in KL. Kong
Great article, Kong!
I really enjoyed your post, especially the section about making the moonphase. The moon on the Korona always seems pensive and somber. It's very beautiful. I enjoy Sarpaneva's unique point-of-view and how intertwined his watch designs seem to be with the ...
The making of the moonphase, credit to Stepan's pics...
Hi Daos With the pics, it is easier for us to have an overview. The actual toolmaking is just like the making of coins. Thanks for the kind words. Kong
Everything is just right
The case - new design, thickness and 42mm The metal - RG The buckle - half Kong, I mistakenly thought that there is nothing much to say about Sarpaneva except for the moon phase and its skeleton dial. Upon reading your review, I think we should take a clo...
Yes. I will appreciate my watch more now.
I just hope that the new K3 will have a more competitive price range. Regards Ling
Unique proposition...
Thanks for the review Kong. Nice to know the watch and the maker and the idea behind the unusual moon. The RG case makes the dial stand out even more. Visually interesting and wonderfully finished. Thanks.
Welcome to our forum, Ticktockforever...
Yes, it is important to know the people and the work put in. As it is their manifestation and efforts, we can have some nice pieces. Glad you enjoy the brief review. Kong
Kong, You have done it again! Very passionately...
written and it has been a while since I enjoyed reading a review like this. Makes me proud to be a owner of the No.1 K3. Once again, many thanks for an absorbing read!
C O N G R A T S
Congrats with this oh so beautiful watch!!! And thanx a lot for this excellent report about you Korona RG and the process of making the intruiging moonphase. While i was picking up my Korona K1 i tried the Korona RG and WG as well and they are so incredib...
I do appreciate Sarpaneva's work...
... and also your reports, Kong ! The Korona is definitely a watch I could wear in the future. Thanks for your pictures. Emmanuel
Beautiful...
Great report buddy, thanks a bunch...indeed the gold makes the watch much more stunning. I am imagining a rose gold version with rose gold dial as well That would be tastefully 'bling' i think And making that smug face is definitely not easy Regards
Then you may need to rename the model :-)
With a gold dial, the watch may not reassemble Corona as the centre portion needs to be dark. The RG version gives me a more accurate of the sun corona. Hey you won't know what can be next Kong