Independents

2015 is without any doubt a very favorable year to celebrate the anniversaries of some creative independent brands. After the 10 years celebration of MB&F, here comes the fifth anniversary of Benoît Mintiens' brand, Ressence. The young Belgian designer took the opportunity to observe the progress made during all these years by paying tribute to the first prototypes. However it would be wrong to think that it is a return to square one, it is totally the opposite! Because the Type 1 V Genesis, despite its particular aesthetic approach remains above all a true Type 1 what means it embodies the incarnation of the outcome of the reflection and work of Benoît Mintiens both in aesthetically and technically points of view.



The independent brands enthusiasts remember without any difficulty the different Type 100x which constituted the starting point of the brand. The Type 1 today seems very close to these initial watches because the system of time display, based on satellite design and banning the use of any hand is shared by both models. But we can't imagine how many improvements have occurred during these five years! A fundamental point distinguishes  the Type 1 from the Type 100x and symbolizes the ultimate goal to be reached by Benoît Mintiens: the removal of the crown.

As its watches continued to use this crown, he could not be satisfied because there was a kind of intermediary between them and their owners. He wanted above all a total interaction, a direct link. The process of creating Type 1 responds to the logic of the principles of industrial design, in where the form didn't have an unique aesthetic purpose, but also a functional role (the famous form follows function motto). The removal of the crown is part of the same approach that led to eliminate the hands. It's a way to shake traditional watchmaking (but with respect!) by such an approach. The customers experience new sensations on the daily use of Type 1 and that's the intention.



Despite its original character, the time reading is not difficult to master. The centerpiece is the minute disc which carries the other display discs dedicated to the seconds, the hours and the days of the week. This dominant disk, continuously on the move and performing its complete revolution in one hour, changes the locations of the displays on the dial. The lay-out of this dial is permanently evolving and as a face, the watch seems to express  new emotions.


While it reflects the aesthetic and functional point of view (the minute is perhaps the most important indication of a watch), there is also a technical reason to explain the role played by the minute disc. The movement is in fact made of two parts. The base, a ETA2824 movement is only used to power the display module, the ROCS1 (Convex Ressence Orbital System) which concentrates all the ingenuity from Benoît Mintiens. The watchmaking interest  thus comes from this module which is fully animated by the minute axis of the basic caliber. Indeed, the ETA2824 is reduced in this context to its simplest expression and all other functions were removed. Please note that taking into account the energy consumption required by the module, the power reserve of the movement is 36 hours what is lower of the standards of the classic ETA2824.



The time setting and the winding of the watch however require some practice and the lack of crown is confusing at first. Fortunately, indications (and an advice!) are displayed on the caseback. The crown is replaced by a gear that interacts with the movement located directly on the caseback. Once the way to handle this rotating  caseback was well understood, I could appreciate to be able to wind the movement by setting the time.

The entire dial is slightly curved to create the feeling of the perfect consistency and integration of the elements by matching the shape of sapphire crystal. This aesthetic coherence is not easy to obtain since it was obliged to bow the shafts and gears and bend the plates. But the benefit justifies the effort because the way how the dial accompanies the crystal to the edge of the watch, which does not have, strictly speaking  a bezel, produces a spectacular visual effect and improves the legibility.


The specificity of Type 1 Genesis V is its finishes style that evokes ... the lack of finishes. We don't have to be wrong.  To not apply any finish, it's easy. But to apply a finish to give a raw and natural side is much trickier. Thus, the  rendering of the grained dial combines with the hollowed figures and indexes without Superluminova and the galvanized indicators of the discs define a very special atmosphere amplified by the use of an untreated Barenia calf strap. I love the contrast between the texture of the dial and the depth effects of the peripheral figures and indexes. Similarly, the titanium case includes some scars of the milling process. But I would like to reinsure everybody on this point: the watch never appears as poorly finished. This aesthetic approach does not ultimately lack charm and refinement. Somewhat paradoxical but without any doubt, there is a world between the rendering of the Type 1 V Genesis and that of a prototype that would have been completed for presentation at a Fair.



This very particular Type 1 is fascinating to wear. It has a large presence on the wrist because of its large dial aperture and the 42mm diameter. Featuring balanced proportions, neither too thin nor too thick (13 mm), it is worn with comfort thanks to the efficient bracelet and the integration of wire loop strap attachments which positions it very close to the case. Its dial intrigues and its much more radical appearance makes it more difficult to appreciate than a Type 1 of the permanent collection. Benoît Mintiens know perfectly this: dedicated primarily to Ressence enthusiasts who want to recapture the spirit of the early days, the Type 1 V Genesis is released in the context of a very limited edition of 5 pieces. Collectors wishing to enter the Ressence world will do it more easily with another Type 1 without forgetting the amazing type 3 because their more elaborate finishes improve their perceived qualities.

Thanks to Benoît and Gaëtan for the warm welcome at Basel.

Pros:
+ The originality of the time display at the same time clever and easy to master
+ The consistency between the aesthetic approach and the daily use
+ The basic caliber, simple and reliable
+ The watchmaking contents of the display module
+ The presence and comfort on the wrist

Cons:
- A power reserve a little too short
- A watch dedicated to the hardcore fans of the brand, which is more difficult to appreciate given its decorative style

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