Independents

asg
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Getting back to the original question.....

HI

I have thought long and hard about this topic - have discussed it with collectors on a few different continents - these are my views on buying from independants....

It depends. 

Do you know a watchmaker (local) who can service complex movements - can fabricate parts, tools etc?  There are a few that I know of in the US who have given me the comfort that if one of my watches were to fail, they could at least attempt the repair.   The cost might be considerable, but it could be repaired. 

With this said - most watches from independants are relatively straight forward movements.  Simplicity - (i dont onw one) if we can believe it - is based (slightly....) on classic JLC type caliber.  Nothing truly fancy about the movement design - the finishing, well, no one can do what PD does, but can someone keep it working - hell yes!  Series 2, maybe the co-axial escapement is a bit tricky and Roger uses his own balance wheels, but again, relatively straight forward and can be serviced by a watchmaker 10, 20, 40, 75 years from now.  I've even been told that a Resonance can be serviced for eternity assuming the future collapse of the firm.  Kari - all vintage movements re-worked.  Easy.  Volker - I will assume that once he delivers his watch it will be easy to service ()

I own a couple of MB&F watches - these, if you can believe it, are also relatively straight forward complications that a highly skilled and well versed watchmaker can service. Base movements are GP based.  I'm not a betting man, but GP might just eat the dust one of these days soon.  At least their bases are straightforward and easy to service.   The issue may come with an MB&F in that the hands or dials or some special screw etc. may need to be re-made or re-crafted.  This could cost some $$, but, the watch is not unserviceable.  Plus, Max is easy to find so I figure I'd show up at his doorstep one day and beg and he's gotta have a friend who would aid a helping hand. 

Now - to my point. 

Look at brands like Richard Mille.  Although backed by AP R&P, its much easier in my opinion to service a watch made of "normal and customary" materials that the alusic/carbon fiber/futuristic alloy employed by this firm.  And what about the Silicon escapements from PP and Breguet et al.  Not so easy if you ask me.  I think that it all has to do with how comfortable you are and how much time, effort and patience you have. 

I'm in my mid 30's.  Most of the watchmakers I am buying from will, in the normal course of things live as long as I do.  Ok, so maybe some might pass a few years earlier.  Now my kids will have the headache - but, at somepoint during the next 20 years or so, I'll call Roger, Kari, Max, Stepan and say - hey guys, what's your succession plan?  Who is going to handle service for my kids?  Remember, these gentlemen (and ladies) are doing what they do because they love it - they are friendly and will also discuss these items with you personally.  If you want to buy a Series 2, call Roger, tell him your concerns and listen to his thoughts on the matter.  Same goes for any independant.  Maybe Msr. Journe is a bit busy, but I guarantee that one of the boutique staff/managers etc will gladly address your request and questions.  You are buying a multi-thousand dollar item, and to me, the independant watchmaker is much more suited to answer you in an honest and truthful way that a faceless brand.  (I'm ducking now....)

What do you do if you bought a watch from company X, and they go out of business?  Its happened a few times to "big" brands. 

Its all a gamble.  To me, any "fine" watch with any "in-house" or "proprietary finish or modified" movement has some risk assoicated with its purchase.  If you think you can just buy any UN or PP or VC and think, hey, I'm all ok because there is a big brand behind me, I say, think again! 

Take Ferrari for example.  They are so damn finicky.  Wacky stuff all the time with these cars.  Silly to even buy one if you ask me....I had a problem which my local dealer could not fix and or diagnose properly - so, Ferrari recomended an independant repair shop, and he solved the issue.  Point here - Its never a sure thing with the big brands either.  I think that's why folks like Claret and Parmigiani and Kari and now BNB (??) started in business. To solve the problems which the big brands and others could not solve. 

There will always be a watchmaker who will be able to fix any watch.  Always.  As long as the materials are readily available. 

Be warry of these trendy materials.  That's my best advice.  I love some of these watches, but am scared.  So, for my $300K, I'll put it in a few "Basic" not-so-complicated pieces and enjoy it that way . 

Good luck - buy for today.  I dont know how old you are but for the forseeable future - watchmakers of our generation will be here .

Happy Holidays!

Viva la independants!

asg

(Now if Santa could just lend some elves to a select few watchmakers.....I know a few guys who would be very happy)

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