small-luxury-world
[Patek]
8725
Baselworld 2012: De Bethune
Founded in 2002, almost 10 patents, more than 10 calibres and quite a few more than 10 world’s premiere innovations. Conception, R&D, prototyping, manufacture, finishing, assembling and testing – everything is done in-house, today. They started with a slightly different design and movements from Venus, Enicar and others. Design – more classic in the past, but you can still see their typical/uncommon shape for the lugs in the latest models.
Their current products are innovative and advanced in both technology & design, yet also incorporate traditional elements to bridge the gap between the past and the future. In 2011 they have been awarded at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix with the “Aiguille d´Or”.
The whole story is even more impressive if you think they do less than 200 watches a year (at least that is what we have been told).
So, let´s have a look what we were shown in Basel:
Dress Watch Collection
DB28ST
The new dead-seconds tourbillon with its open-worked dial has one of the most distinctive DB looks. Its rocket-shaped movement bridge as well as the flexible lug system have evolved into widely recognisable DB features.
Case: 43mm; polished Grade 5 titanium
Movement: cal. DB 2119, manual-winding movement; hours, minutes and seconds; dead seconds tourbillon; 4-day power reserve
Some of the movement features have been shown in the stunning DB25T before. This time it comes in the case of the DB28 collection and the tourbillon can be seen easily, to mention only a few details.
The flame-blued dead seconds hand is eye-catching and even more in reality while moving.
On the wrist it is comfortable.
... and even more gold on the back. A captivating contrast to the blackened movement bridges!
One distinctive feature of DeBethune from day 1 were their lugs. This watch features cleverly designed 'floating' lugs which allow for a very comfortable 'ride' on the wrist. They are available in two different lengths.
As you can see from above, there are two versions, one with lugs in polished titanium, the other one (above) with those in anthracite zirconium (both limited to 50 pieces). Here a group shot à la Mr Hayek Senior:
DB27 Titan Hawk
The dial is wonderfully sculptured and three-dimensional. It certainly exudes the class of vintage pocketwatches of the likes of a Breguet or Leroy. The central date hand reminds of a geographical instrument, a sextant for example.
- Self-regulating twin barrels providing 6 days of autonomy
- Silicon/white gold balance wheel with flat terminal curve
- Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
- Silicon escape wheel
- Titanium/heavy metal oscillating weight
Its hard to say, but the watch has something timeless in its appeal that only De Bethune achieves. Well done!
Classic Collection
DB25s Jewellery
The magic here comes entirely from the gorgeous heat-blued dial crafted from mirror-polished titanium with white gold stars and 21 diamonds. The moonphase itself, accurate to one day in 122 years, is indicated by means of a platinum and steel sphere set with 44 diamonds and 44 blue sapphires:
The case is a drum-shaped 40 mm white gold case set with 61 baguette-cut blue sapphires totalling 5.29 carats. The thickness is 11 mm:
The movement is a De Bethune Calibre DB 2105, a mechanical hand-wound and hand-decorated movement sporting a mirror-polished mainplate with high polished steel parts and titanium bridge:
The dial is just another drug infusion to the already addicted. The combination of heat-blued steel with a sterling silver chapter ring is almost out of this world; ethereal, captivating and just sparkling with excellence in aesthetics and craftsmanship:
If we turn it around we instantly admire a sculpture of a movement. The Seconde Morte mechanism with tourbillon ( 36,000 vibrations per hour; power reserve: 4 days 
is clearly closely related to the one in the DB28ST. Is it a problem to
see that kind of beauty over and over again? No, not at all 
The base watch is a DB25, a 44mm watch. De Bethune put all its efforts and energy in the elaborate dial. The press kit offers a good explanation on the finesse of the dial. Thus, we simply quote it here:
"The solid gold dial of these timepieces has been hand-engraved by Michèle Rothen, and enhanced by 31 flame-blued steel inserts. The hour circle displays the numerals of Mayan numbering system, while the inner ring presents the 20 glyphs of divinities, animals and sacred objects representing the various days of the calendar.
The dial centre features the baktun, a period glyph used in particular for calculating the “Long Count” and comprising 144,000 days.
In order to highlight the subtle visual equilibrium of the dial, the hands are made in sapphire rimmed with blued steel according to an exclusive De Bethune procedure."
The Maya is driven by the Cal. DB 2005 (6-days PR).
A watch that certainly will continue to appeal even after 21 December 2012 ;-)
Conclusion
De Bethune's approach to watchmaking is incredible and outstanding. Approaches like this are hard to imagine under the roof of any of the big watch groups. Especially when we look at some hands, cases, dials … from some of the big brands today, DB´s attention to the detail is “crazy”. Big brands changed their hands and saved about ten times in costs, compared to earlier ones … Is there a business case behind De Bethune, even when there watches are far from being cheap? We don´t know, but the result is impressive – for sure. The worst thing we can say about DB is that they change their hands, balance wheels … faster as one is able to place his order. It is almost impossible to track their innovations, even when we talk about the same reference.
Magnus
De Bethune is a manufacture exactly to my taste - technically and aesthetically innovating, surprising but yet so humble. Real watchmakers with a clear vision and the power to deliver. In terms of design it is an up and down for me, but not because the designs are more or less well done, but more because one design speaks more to me than the other.
What
sets De Bethune apart from other manufactures is their apt blend of
aesthetics and technology. What I mean is that however you look at their
timepieces the outer appearance matches the watchmaking masterpiece
inside. There is a rare harmony in appearance and content that makes a
De Bethune instantly recognisable, and yet each watch may differ
tremendously from the other in terms of aesthetics. What a feat!
I also would like to mention that while they constantly try to push the horological borders with new constructions and materials (reference is made to the escapement, for example) but at the same time strive to perfect the traditional arts. The DB25T is a case in point. Featuring an elaborate tourbillon escapement with modern silicium parts mated to a more restrained case and dial. The dial then is entirely traditional with a sterling silver chapter ring and a heat-blued steel dial. It may not look so but to be able to hand-manufacture an evenly heat-blued piece with a large surface like in this case is a most remarkable feat.
It is for these reasons that I select the DB25T as my personal favourite for 2012. It is the essential De Bethune watch for me. It speaks all its dialects fluently!
Oliver
It was not the first time
that I had a look at their watches, but it doesn´t happen every day -
unfortunately. Each time I look at their pieces I get closer to the brand and
especially when it comes to design they are getting better and better. I like
the uncompromising approach even when I was not totally impressed by the
finishing we saw at some of the novelties. At the end of the day the people
behind DeBethune are humans as well and that is ok
DB27 Titan Hawk - what
I like on this one is the style and the "affordability", but the small
window on the back offers only a very limited view on the movement. The
latter would be a show-stopper for me. If I would go for DB I want the real thing, I want to see it all - the full beauty
Some of the DB 28 versions available are to die for and when I put them on my wrist it is always hard to give them back. But does that kind of "Rock´n Roll" fit to my lifestyle - longterm? I hate to ask questiones like this, but in real life we all have our budgets ...
At the end I agree (once more ) with Magnus, the DB25T
is THE one if you can do it only once. There is "Rock´n Roll", classic,
science, romance ... in the details. I guess one would get lot´s of
compliments from totally different kind of people, even when most of
them have no idea what it is. Would love to admire all the details day
by day, to take 1000´s of pictures ... and on top comes the wearabilty.
Only my piggy bank ... I have to work on this :-(
Magnus & Oliver
Baselworld 2012: De Bethune
I can't get tired of reading about De Bethune,
Mark, thanks for your perspectives and additions...
I would say ...
Mark, you just opened a totally new dimension...
Mark,your analysis is just perfect..
You point it right Mo
Thank you!
"it look breathtaking and perfectly fitting on your wrist"
Teutonic connection....
Damjan ...
One of the reasons why...
Dear Daos, I could imagine the Mayan ...
Rock'nRoll or...modern classics?
True commitment from the heart,
easy to arrange one..
Lot´s of passion ...
pifpaf, thanks for your kind reply.
