Horological Meandering

foversta
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Hands on review of the Hermès Slim Large Model (3 hands)

The Slim collection was introduced in 2015 and reflects the reaffirmed ambition of Hermès  in the watchmaking industry. The Slim watches are available in various sizes (25, 32 and 39,5mm) but it is the largest case that offers the more credible horological content. Two types of watches are offered with the 39,5mm diameter: a perpetual calendar one and a simple watch with small seconds at 6 o'clock. It is interesting to look at it because it is an example of a successful 3 hands watch ... what is never easy to achieve!

The trick is to renew the approach without falling into a wacky design. The dress watch has its codes, its principles. But it is recommended to slightly deviate from them to avoid offering the umpteenth clone of a Calatrava, an Altiplano or a tasteless piece. Hermès managed to stand out from this very crowded segment with three key elements: the numerals font, the lugs and the movement.




The font used for the peripheral Arabic numerals on the dial catches the eye at first glance. Thin and original, this font created by Philippe Apeloig gives to the watch a contemporary dimension without removing an ounce of timelessness. The numerals are composed of separate parts and they thus become lighter and aerial. The lack of continuity of these numerals is interesting to analyze and is inconsistent with the own concept of the watch which only measures the infinite and continuous time. Let's take an example: the eight, created by two distinct circles, loses here its concept of symbol of the infinite and I love this opposition.

When we consider the other parts, the presentation of the dial remains classic even though it has a fun aspect: the scale is positioned around the central area. This effect is very nice from a visual standpoint as making peripheral area very pure without affecting the legibility of time. The "stick" hands perfectly match the numerals and the separate indexes of the second hand sub-dial, which remind us the numerals font, contribute to the harmony of the whole.




The position of this sub-dial, a little too close to the center, might suggest that the movement is too small for the case. It is not true because the ultra-thin movement H1950 generously occupies the case what is excellent news. By turning over the watch, we discover the automatic caliber which reveals its particular architecture due to the use of a micro-rotor. If this movement is presented as an in-house caliber, it is actually a movement developed by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (partially owned by Hermès). Its performances are reasonable (a 3hz frequency and a 42-hour power reserve) due to its very thin height (2.6mm). Its finishes are, admittedly, pretty rough, especially  when we observe the bridges shapes but are consistent with the selling price of the watch. The decoration pattern based on the "H" of Hermès is rather successful but I wish it was not also used on the micro-rotor. For this type of movement, I prefer that the micro-rotor has a strong contrast with the other elements. That's not the case here. Despite these downsides, the use of such caliber is excellent news. The Slim Large Model with 3 hands is indeed sold at a price of 5.650 euros with taxes in France with a stainless-steel case (13,500 euros with a gold case) making it a very attractive price to take advantage of such a movement which is found in far more expensive watches. Furthermore, the fact that it is used by several brands ensures some continuity. And finally, its winding efficiency is quite decent for a micro-rotor movement.




If we consider  the diameter (39,5mm) on thickness (9mm) ratio which is relatively high, the Slim Large Model is distinguished by its slender style I could appreciated when I wore it. The watch can not be considered as an ultra-thin one but I find that it offers very pleasing and balanced proportions. In addition, the lugs are very attractive. Their shape is geometric and brings character to the round case. Their double tilt is an aesthetic success and I have rarely seen so well made lugs on a seemingly simple case. This detail shows that Hermès designed this watch with great care. I experienced a lot of pleasure to wear and I consider it as one of the most convincing pieces in the segment of dress watches since it provides solid aesthetic and horological contents for a reasonable price.



Pros:
+ A successful design of the dial thanks to the font numerals
+ The use of a micro-rotor movement
+ The lugs shape
+ The attractive price of the stainless steel version

Cons:
- The bridge shapes are a bit Spartan
- The decoration of the micro-rotor is similar to the bridges one and I would prefer a higher contrast between these movement elements

Fr.Xavier