Foversta presents a compelling hands-on review of the De Grisogono New Retro, hailing it as potentially the most beautiful watch unveiled at Baselworld 2015. The author delves into the watch's unique design philosophy, arguing it represents a 'vintage of the future' rather than a mere reinterpretation of past aesthetics.
I'm almost inclined to think that the De Grisogono New Retro is one the most beautiful watches, if not the most beautiful one unveiled at Baselworld 2015. And to be frank with you, the more I see it, the more I'm convinced by this idea. I am totally in love withthe charm of this watch featuring an unique style and masterfully designed by Fawaz Gruosi. One thing is certain in any case: its name was chosen with great care. New Retro should not be understood in my point of view as one of the numerous variations of the Neo Retro trend that brands provide us with more or less success for many years. Neo Retro is today a reinterpretation of a classic or a stylistic approach of the past, in other words, an update of an old recipe that has proven its efficiency. And the lower the risk, the better. New Retro is based on a different concept, almost opposite. In the mind, the aim of this watch is to become a kind of ideal representation of what would be a "vintage" watch of the future, I mean a today's piece seen in several decades. As such, I consider it as a projection into the future and absolutely not like a watch which points towards the past.
Because when I observe and handle it, despite its very Art Deco atmosphere, I feel that it seems much more inspired by the industrial design that could be found in some car grilles than by a previous watch aesthetic trend. It is a perfect summary of Fawaz Gruosi's talent: New Retro is a contemporary watch and imbued with the De Grisogono universe which is manifested in numerous details:
- the case shape, this time a horizontal rectangle, that we have seen on numerous occasions previously like with the Uno, the Meccanico DG or the Otturatore,
- the crown at 12 o'clock already used in the context of the FG One Jump Hour
- the dial that goes to basics with predominant numbers and dauphine hands,
- and of course a large size with a width of 50mm, a height of 44mm and a thickness of 12mm.
The light enters the case:
It is interesting to look at this size more closely. When we read its dimensions, the watch case seems to be bulky, impressive... and almost unwearable. And yet, the watch can be worn without any difficulty and even manages to generate a sense of refinement and elegance. Several reasons explain this feeling. The first one is that the watch is spread horizontally, thus facilitating its wearing comfort. The second one is how gadroons converge on the bracelet and that significantly reduce the aesthetic weight of the watch. The lugs, relatively short and curved also bring their contribution to the comfort and to the visual fluidity. Finally, the last reason is perhaps the most fundamental and is the base of the successful New Retro design: the shape of the glass.
The glass plays a dual role: it doesn't only provide an aerial touch to the watch but, thanks to its shape which extends on the edges by initiating the caseside, it literally coats the dial and illuminates it. I love this style effect which makes New Retro dive into a contemporary atmosphere that reminds me, in a certain way, that of mobile phones and other everyday life technological objects.
The large figures on the dial are also close to the edges as if to catch the light. And due to the case shape, the 6 and 12 were removed to get a visual rendering opposite to what is practiced normally and accentuate the feeling of width of the watch. The dial is available in several colors: black, off-white and vintage green, the latter being certainly the most interesting and original color of the series.
The main objective from Fawaz Gruosi was to make the dial as pure as possible what explains the predominance of the figures. The watch is in this sense without compromise because I can guess that a lot would have been tempted to add a date window that would have ruined the whole balance. New Retro offers no complication, no date, no second hand and this simplicity that contrasts with the rather complex case design is welcome. The only infringement departure of this rule is the brand emblem in the center of the dial, not very discreet but consistent with the De Grisogono style.
New Retro is powered by the movement DG 10-01. This is actually an ETA2824 caliber (I guessed it thanks to the number of jewels), beautifully decorated with a gold rotor hollowed out and featuring a black finish. The visual effect of the dial is similar movement side using this glass over the entire width of the watch and extending it on the edges to the caseside. The good old ETA2824 has rarely been so spectacular and in these circumstances I am easily satisfied with it. Because of course, I regret that a watch with such a prize (in France, 26,900 euros in gold and 14,100 euros for the steel version with black PVD) uses a movement widely used and without any exclusivity. But on the other hand: it is a reliable movement with a very good winding efficiency (much better than in 2892) and which can be serviced without any problem. So taking into account its very attractive presentation, the choice of this carefree movement seemed relevant.
The main thing lies elsewhere. The great asset of New Retro is the emotion it creates when put on the wrist. It is truly a watch full of contrasts which plays with oppositions. It is both powerful, imposing but also elegant and refined. It is also simple in its time display and complex in the case structure. Finally, it is very energetic and original because of its horizontal rectangular shape but also taking into account the soft curves of the glasses. The cocktail undoubtedly works and in this context, the position of the crown on top of the case is the detail that completes the successful design. This crown ensures perfect symmetry. It also explains the reason for the use of an automatic movement. In my mind, a manual winding movement would have been perfect for a dressed two hands watch. However, the position of the crown makes its manipulation more delicate , with some difficulty to pull it and to rotate it. The automatic movement becomes the most reasonable and most suitable solution.
New Retro is for me the perfect demonstration of Fawaz Gruosi's talent. All explanations, descriptions of this watch seem futile because you just need to wear it to understand the strength of its design and the creativity it contains. I simply consider it as one of the finest two hands watches of the market.
I would like to thank a lot the staff of the De Grisono boutique of Paris.
Pros:
+ An outstanding design magnified by the glasses shape
+ A time display in its simplest expression
+ The comfort on the wrist thanks to the efficiency of the wide strap and of the folding clasp
+ The decoration style of the ETA2824 which has rarely been so spectacular.
Cons:
- The rather difficult crown handling
- The high price ... but that's the price of a certain exclusivity and beauty is priceless!
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-10-05 14:11:26 
