foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Hands on review of the Breiling Top Time Limited Edition
The least we can say is that Breitling doesn't hesitate to find inspiration in its heritage. After all, the brand would be wrong to deprive itself because it is a true opportunity to have a certain number of pieces that have marked their eras and many competitors would like to be in the same situation.
There are generally two trends which guide Georges Kern and his teams in the development of new products: the first, which represents the main part of the production, consists in reinterpreting according to today's standards known references from the brand: I'm obviously thinking about the brand new Chronomat or the Premier collection. They are clearly new watches but which incorporate codes, characteristic aesthetic elements (such as the Rouleaux bracelet or the rider tabs on the Chronomat bezel). And then, for limited series pieces aimed more at a clientele of collectors or fans of the brand, Breitling doesn't hesitate to clone an iconic watch. I am thinking in this case about the Navitimer 806 1959 Reedition or the AVI 765 1953 Reedition. In any case, the recipe seems effective because the echoes I get here and there from Breitling's commercial activity seem completely satisfactory with a growth dynamic and a increasing interest from the general public.
And then there is a case apart, it is this Top Time Limited Edition. It is not really a watch of the first category because its style is resolutely neo-vintage. But it is not a clone either even if the design of the dial gives us an immediate indication of the watch from which it is inspired.
The Top Time Limited Edition is in my opinion one of the prettiest new products of the year. Admittedly, it will not shock the small watchmaking world with its technical content. But it is particularly well done and especially Breitling knew how to avoid the usual traps of this kind of exercise. Let's take a simple example: the great temptation to put a date window is real because many people believe that watches with date display can be more easily sold. They may be right ... but in the context of a "general public" clientele. And it's a relief: the Top Time Limited Edition has no date. It must be said that with such a dial nicknamed "zorro" because of the black zone which envelops the two sub-dials and inspired in particular by that of the 2003 reference (in gold plated) from the 60s, the presence of a date window would have been more than a lack of taste: a massacre. So I am convinced that the current Breitling strategy works because the teams don't make these kinds of mistakes. It is the result of more sophisticated marketing and real market knowledge. The different watches are aimed at well-defined customers, more or less wide and their designs, their functions are adapted according to the targets. It may seem obvious but it is not what I have always seen in the watch industry, far from it.
The most typical element of the Top Time Limited Edition is therefore its dial, charming and deliciously retro. It brings its touch of character, its colors and its originality. The whole appears to be balanced even if the sub-dials are smaller in proportion than on the original model (the reference 2003 had a much more modest diameter). The minute counter is no longer 45 minutes but 30 minutes. However, the red zone between the fifth and the tenth minute is well respected. Breitling has chosen to replace the tachymeter scale with a decimal scale. I don't know the reason for this choice except the desire to have regular peripheral graduations. The other red element is not negligible since it is the most important on a watch: the pair of hands. I appreciated this detail which gives dynamism and a relaxed side to the Top Time Limited Edition.
The diameter of the steel case is 41mm. The perceived size on the wrist is relatively large because the bezel is rather thin, the lugs are long and the mushroom pushers prominent. Fortunately, the bracelet spring bars are not located at the end of the lugs and the brown nubuck leather strap brushes the case. The thickness is also substantial (14.3mm) but a large part of the height comes from the shape of the glass and I didn't feel it while wearing the Top Time Limited Edition. This glass also contributes to the aesthetic success. I really liked the way it highlights the dial. And since it is anti-reflective on both sides, the Top Time Limited Edition is very readable and bright.
The bottom of the case is solid and contains the reference to the limited series of 2,000 pieces, but the watches are not individually numbered. The movement is therefore not visible but it is not a problem. It is indeed the caliber 23, an ETA 7753 movement (or its equivalent from Sellita) which is not of unforgettable beauty. In addition, given the neo-retro atmosphere, the solid caseback is more coherent. The performance of the movement is in fact classic with a power reserve of 48 hours for a 4hz frequency.
The real question is to ask why Breitling used this movement rather than the in-house caliber B01. The brand's desire was to offer the Top Time Limited Edition at a lower price than that of watches equipped with the B01 movement. And this is the case since the retail price is 4,850 euros ie 3,000 euros less than re-editions like the Navitimer 806 or AVI 765. This decision is logical and consistent with the past since the Top Time collection was intended to be more affordable. Personally, I don't mind finding a generic movement (and certified as chronometer) in this watch and it wouldn't have made sense to "upgrade" it. In addition, this makes it possible to offer a neo-vintage watch, which is certainly not a reedition, at a more accessible price even if it is not cheap for a piece powered by a 7753 movement. The brand, the overall quality and the undeniable charm of the watch justify it.
The Top Time Limited Edition is therefore a very nice and successful watch. It offers little surprise from a mechanical point of view, but its quaint and relaxed atmosphere as well as its impeccable execution make it very attractive. I might have imagined it with a smaller diameter but the thickness would surely have remained the same and for reasons of balance and to keep a slender style, it was perhaps better to chosse the diameter of 41mm. Finally, note that this watch is the first Breitling to feature the digital passport based on the blockchain using the Arianee protocol. This Top Time Limited Edition is decidedly inspired by the past and turned towards the future!
Pros:
+ the charm of the "zorro" dial
+ the quality of the execution of the whole
+ the fun brought by the red hands
Cons:
- a significant size which takes it away from the spirit of the original watch
Pros:
+ the charm of the "zorro" dial
+ the quality of the execution of the whole
+ the fun brought by the red hands
Cons:
- a significant size which takes it away from the spirit of the original watch
Fr.Xavier
Hands on review of the Breiling Top Time Limited Edition
The least we can say is that Breitling doesn't hesitate to find inspiration in its heritage. After all, the brand would be wrong to deprive itself because it is a true opportunity to have a certain number of pieces that have marked their eras and many com...
Thank you for this insightful review.
I just purchased this watch for my son and he’s loving it. The 41mm size feels right, especially for today’s style and standards.
Great review,thanks!
I really like this watch and will hopefully be able to see it soon. For wearability,I am a bit worried about these long lugs...
Thanks for the excellent review!
Really liking this piece and especially happy that there is no date window.
Great limited edition
Nice to see a release with honest quality, a striking dial and a fair price. Perfect addition to a seasoned collection. It’s very charming, which is a pleasure we miss out on if we only focus on objective criteria to determine if a watch is worth owning. ...
