JToddH
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Carl F. Bucherer Chronograde: My Review of a Complicated Gift
If there’s truth to the saying that, “the Devil is in the details,” then the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde is sinfully delicious.
High on my wish list, the Chronograde has been an “objet de lust” for several years. Little did I know that it would end up gracing my wrist as a complete, and I do mean COMPLETE surprise! Just how my wife knew I wanted the Chronograde, eludes me. I’d simply ask, but I’m not sure I want to know. In any case, it was an excellent choice!
Still in shock from the surprise, I did a brief teaser post following the Christmas deluge of holiday acquisitions on PuristSPro. Recently, I finally had a chance to snap a few photos of this heavenly beast of a watch, and with a little wrist time since, I offer my review.
The Chronograde comes wrapped in a beautiful white lacquered wooden box. The heft and finish of the box itself is a pleasant prelude to what’s inside.
At 44.6mm, the Patravi Chronograde is slightly smaller than its sibling Patravi TravelTec at 46.6mm. It is also a bit slimmer with a height of 14.1mm versus the TravelTec’s 15.5mm. In any case, both are pretty hefty in size and weight.
The Chronograde makes good use of the large dial, packing in a carnival of complications. This watch is simply a joy to gaze upon as there’s enough going on never to get bored. An added benefit of the 44.6mm dial is that even with all the complications, each feature is well defined and quite easy to read, even for my aging eyes.
Overall, the design is well thought out and attractive. Close up or from a distance, the Chronograde is an impressive looking timepiece.
If bracelets were a blood sport, Carl F. Bucherer would rule the octagon. After years of frequent wrist time with an identical bracelet on my TravelTec, I can attest to its comfort and quality. The (relatively) small links allow the bracelet to wrap precisely around the wrist with without pinching or grabbing hair. A benefit to the weight of the bracelet is that it helps offset the mass of the watch, keeping it firmly in place.
The deployant is constructed with no less quality than its host. The mechanism glides securely in place. Locking with one hand from both sides takes a little getting used to as I recall, but after regular wear, it quickly becomes a non-issue. I’ve had similar clasps of lesser quality that slip and slide when operating, but here, the extra weight and precision construction makes it a breeze.
Removing links from the bracelet is simple, but you have to be careful turning opposing screws from both sides of the link – it’s easy to slip and risk scratching the end of the link. I’d recommend that if you do it yourself, you wrap a little tape on the link exposing only the screw head.
A Complicated Perspective
Down to business, the dial is what the Chronograde is all about. Enchanting, if not lustful, there’s a colorful dance of complications on display. The flyback chronograph has minute and seconds counters as well as a six-hour, retrograde hours counter.
Cleverly distributed, the closer you inspect the features, the more you appreciate the engineering that resulted in the Chronograde. It’s simply mesmerizing with every glance.
The Patravi Chronograde is also armed with a big date wrapped in a nicely sculpted, polished frame as well as an annual calendar with an internally mounted date magnifier that results in a perfectly flat crystal.
The retrograde hours counter is one of those features that quite honestly, I’ll probably never use, but it looks pretty cool and makes for great conversation.
Finally, there is a bi-directional power reserve that comes in handy during lazy vacations. Personally, I’ll take my power reserve over a Fitbit any day. At least with the Chronograde, I can cheat with a manual wind to top off my reserve while the Fitbit just says I’m a sloth.
The chronograph minutes at the 9 o’clock are balanced by the running seconds at the three. Both registers are styled differently so there’s no confusion.
One conundrum for me is that normally I would like to see red hands on the chronograph functions. But in the case of the Chronograde, I think this would throw off the visual balance of the dial.
Collectively, these features meld to form a powerful gestalt. From near or far, you don’t just see the Chronograde, you take notice.
Six tiny screws secure a gently curved exhibition case back that feels smooth against the skin. All the edges are smoothly polished so the case never digs into the wrist.
While it would be great to see one of Carl F. Bucherer’s in-house movements inside, the Chronograde relies on the Calibre CFB 1902.1, based on the ETA 2892-A2, an industry workhorse known for accuracy and reliability. The CFB 1902.1 has 51 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours.
Practically speaking, using the 1902.1 allows Carl F. Bucherer to offer the Patravi Chronograde at a price that barely breaks five figures. A quick scan of the Internet commonly reveals prices that confirm the Chronograde is a lot of watch for the money.
Sure, the features and individual complications found in the Patravi Chronograde are common with pieces from other brands. What Carl F. Bucherer brings to the table is a unique mix of complications shrouded in a rugged stainless case that allows you to have these features in a formidable daily driver rather than a safe queen.
If there is such a term as “practical luxury,” the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde defines it. It’s not just a lot of watch, it’s a lot of watch you’re not afraid to wear. It makes a powerful statement at a relatively humble price.
Now a regular go-to in my stable of timepieces, the Chronogarde is a wonderful Christmas surprise that will be worn with extra special meaning!
Thank you for reading!
Cheers,
Todd
