AndrewD
[HoMe Moderator]
12829
The Zeitwinkel 273º
Zeitwinkel started in 2006 and released their first watch to market in 2009. If you read the company website you can see that they take great pride in the fact that their watches are built around a manufacture movement used solely in their watches.
The two company founders and owners are Prof. Ivica Maksimovic, known by his friends as “Maks” and Peter Nikolaus who describe themselves as “watch enthusiasts making watches for other enthusiasts”. The name Zeitwinkel translates to ‘time angle’ and relates to the 12 noon position on sundials; the way to determine ‘true local time’.
This watch I tried on at a Boutique is the model 273o, the first Zeitwinkel and still the flagship model. It sports a grand date display with separate windows and a power reserve. This is a very practical timepiece with superb legibility and all the functions you require in a daily wearer. The dial is nicely balanced with a large subseconds display and hands of a perfect length. The diameter is 42.5mm and the thickness 13.8mm. A very masculine size, but the whole creation is well proportioned to my eye. There is sapphire glass on the front and rear with an antireflective coating applied to the inner surface.
The Zeitwinkel Manufacture is located in Saint-Imier, in the Jura region of Switzerland and components produced by other suppliers are sourced from the local region, just as in days past.
The company has developed their own characteristic font called … the Zeiwinkel font. The Zetwinkel logo “M” is actually an inverted “W” from their name using their characteristic font.
Cal. ZW0102 is the basic calibre and the Cal. ZW0103 builds on this to provide a date display. The Cal. ZW0103 is 30.4mm (13 and a half lines) and is perfectly fitted to the cases. The first designs were completed in 2008. The first Zeitwinkel watches came in steel cases, enabling a very competitive pricing structure and building the reputation of the company. From 2014 the same watches are also available in white or rose (fairmined) gold.
Inside beats the Cal. ZW0103 automatic with 72h power reserve. I love my automatic watches to have a PR indicator, but so few do. This is one of my favourite features of the 273o. The movement has 387 components, 49 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph. One watchmaker assembles the movement from start to finish – no production lines. Actually the watch feels very Teutonic – the simple dial and the three quarter plate design in executed in German silver all contribute to this. But it is most definitely Swiss made with traditional Swiss finishing including closely placed perlage, Geneva stripes and hand chamfering and polishing of plates and screws. The balance wheel is made from glucydur and the balance spring is of the Straumann design.
Initial impressions are that the case is relatively simple in design, fitting the workmanlike character of the watch. But as you look more closely you see the alternating polished and matte surfaces, including on the lugs. There is a lot of detail for the owner to enjoy. I find this gives watches a long term appeal.
The rear plate is screwed on and the watch is water resistant to 5 Bar or 50m, a little better than the industry average of 3 Bar (30m), but still not suitable for swimming, of course.
Another nod to the practical and evidence of the thought that has gone into the design is the large 8mm winding crown with 12 deep groves to aid grip. There are dual O-rings that apparently maintain water resistance even when the crown is pulled out for time and date setting. That is reassuring in humid or damp environments.
Dials are available in silver (shown here), black and galvanic-blue. The RG case with the delicious metallic blue dial (that I have only seen in pictures) would be my pick in precious metal.
I found the watch very easy to read. Partly because of the size and the sparsely filled dial, but also the hands which are diamond cut and angled to catch the light. The hour and minute hands are in silver (or gold) and the seconds and PR hands are blued for contrast.
The hand-sewn straps are made from calfskin and the watch is on a steel deployent. There is a faux alligator pattern pressed into the leather which is unnecessary. A rubber strap is available as an option.
There is an eBoutique on the company website and also a physical presence in selected markets in Europe, Asia and the United States. The prices are all very reasonable, particularly in steel, and add to the desirability of these pieces.
Unique and practical design, in house movements, traditional Swiss finishing produced in the heart of the Jura Mountains and at an affordable price. Zeiwinkel deserve to flourish.
Andrew
[Stock images courtesy of Zeitwinkel]
The Zeitwinkel 273º
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