Breguet

patrick_y
[PuristSPro Moderator]
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The Breguet Exhibit at San Francisco's Legion of Honor Museum

Moderator Patrick_y visits the Breguet Exhibit at the Legion of Honor Museum in San Francisco.  Breguet assembled over 70 pieces of rich horological history that celebrates the brand's illustrious image as one of the original watchmakers for world leaders.  This is the first time that this collection has left the European continent.  The collection has been shown previously in the Hermitage, Louvre, and the Swiss National Museum. 

When I was very young, I was first introduced to Breguet in a book.  The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas.  The book mentioned "Breguet" as a watch, and I didn't think much more of it at the time.  A few years later, in my teenage years I saw, held, and briefly wore a Breguet Type XX at a local watch store.  Fast forward more than a decade later, I’m at The Legion of Honor bearing a watch that Signor Pastrini, Albert De Morcerf, and Danglars would recognize.

Fast forward to today, the watches that have been made with Abraham Louis Breguet’s own hands stand before the guests at The Legion Of Honor Museum in San Francisco. 

Upon entering the French style building that is The Legion of Honor, The Thinker (Le Penseur) by Rodin greets you.  What does he think about the Breguet exhibit? 



The start of the Breguet exhibit. 



A blue watch that formerly belonged to a French Royal, none other than Josephine Bonaparte.  It is a "Montres a tact" timepiece which basically means it was conceived to tell time in the dark by feeling where the hand was.  The diamond arrow indicated the hour on this watch relative to the diamonds on the bezel. 




Metal technology back then was not as good as it is today.  To get metal of this quality that could be used for gears was definitely a difficult medium back in the day.  After the French Revolution, Breguet decided to make watches that were less expensive and that could purchased under a payment plan.  This was the precursor to serial production. 


These watches would cost thousands of Francs back in the day.  They were so expensive that they were only owned by royalty and extremely wealthy or powerful individuals. 



Breguet was the first major watchmaker to pioneer off-center watch dials.  The above dial design is so aesthetically pleasing that current Breguet watches still share a similar dial design!  Breguet also pioneered the guilloche to the watch dial.  The guilloche was not intended as a decoration, in fact it's an anti-glare surface that allows the hands to stand out more. 

This quarter-repeating travel clock was originally sold in 1798 to Napoleon Bonaparte for 1500 Francs. Napoleon himself used this clock!  He took this clock with him to his Egypt campaign. 

The Marie Antoinette watch was originally commissioned for the Queen by one of the queen’s admirers in 1783.  Unfortunately, the queen would never see the watch as she was executed in Paris in 1793.  The watch was eventually completed by Abraham Louis Breguet’s son, Antoine Louis Breguet in 1827 over 40 years after it was first commissioned. 

Breguet No.160, aka The Marie Antoinette watch comprises of a perpetual calendar, equation of time, a thermometer, chronograph, and a minute repeater.  Virtually all the known complications of the time were in this watch. 

A marine clock sold to Tsar Alexander I for a whopping 14000 Francs!  Louis XVIII gave Breguet the title of the official Marine Clock Maker.  Marine clocks were of significant military importance, as a ship's captain couldn't accurately determine his longitude without the precise time.  Normal clocks were not reliable on ships due to the rocking motion of the ship, so marine clocks were extremely important to military and exploration ships. 

This gold pocket watch boasts a tourbillon movement and it was sold in 1809 for a princely sum of 4600 Francs.  Recall that Breguet was the inventor of the tourbillon which he patented in 1801. 

This beautiful art deco piece is unlike any Breguet I've ever seen. 

Breguet himself. Considering this exhibit was in San Francisco and very near Silicon Valley, what would Breguet think about technology and watches today?  And what do Silicon Valley Techies think about ancient Breguet watches of the past?  200 years later, we are still wearing Breguet watches that are still highly recognizable as the original pieces.  The design and style has persevered for 200+ years even to this day. 

Overall the exhibit is the most extraordinary exhibit in the USA for watches.  There has never been such a large collection of storied pieces brought to any single exhibit in the United States of America.  If you are near San Francisco, I strongly encourage every watch savant to visit this exhibit.  Last week, a group of watch aficionados and PuristSPro members made a group visit to the museum.  Jeff Kingston, a PuristSPro member and Breguet expert invited PuristSPro members to attend a special viewing of the museum with a dedicated museum curator.   

Each one enjoyed the exhibit immensely and would give their unreserved recommendations to any watch savant to attend the exhibit!  The group then had a dinner with a protracted discussion about the exhibit and what watches moved them the most. 

Many special thanks to Breguet for having this tremendous exhibition in my hometown.  Many thanks to Jeff Kingston for organizing this memorable event with memorable watches and an enjoyable discussion of watches and history.  Truly a world class assembly of exquisite Breguet pieces and of wonderful people!