A. Lange & Söhne

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SIHH 2015: Lange Report

There are different ways to analyse the 2015 collection. From my own perspective, I would call this collection as a "musical pause". Music, I don't need to explain why with the introduction of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Pause because this collection gives the feeling to consolidate the existing lines of the catalogue. Don't get me wrong. For me, it is a very wise and clever decision to do this way. Why?

Simply because one of the challenges faced by Lange is to produce with reasonable time lines the complicated watches of the collection. The last years, Lange introduced the Lange One Tourbillon, the Terraluna, the 1815 Tourbillon, the 1815 Rattrapante etc.... So from my perspective, the addition of a complicated watch featuring a chronograph or a Tourbillon would have been too risky from the pure production point of view. The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, with its specific complication is enough this year for a Manufacture which produces let's say around 5000 watches per year.

Moreover, the changes brought on the existing watches and which enter the 2015 collection can be considered as very judicious. The Saxonia collection gains a lot of character. The Datograph Perpetual gets a clearer dial. The Datograph up and down has now a touch of warmth thanks to the Pink Gold case. And of course, the new Lange One collection remains almost the same aesthetically speaking but with a slimmer and improved movement containing the jumping date mechanism.

And after all, is this year so quiet when comparing to the previous ones? Lange unveils this year two new movements (Lange One + Minute Repeater) which is a good rhythm for a company of this size.

It is the reason why after my first feeling when I arrived at the SIHH on Monday (I was saying: they are doing only one true novelty and it costs more than 400,000 euros...), I changed my mind and I started to think that the 2015 collection was cleverly designed.

I would not forget to mention than in addition to the watches, Lange presented two important changes this year. The PG case is now available with the polished & brushed alternation. Does that mean that the alloy change? No. Actually, Lange did all the tests which were required on a long run and the stability of the polished & brushed case is preserved. We can say that Lange was maybe a bit too cautious about this topic when the brand was re-launched. And a new folding clasp, with two blades, is now available. Good news when it comes to the comfort on the wrist since I've never been convinced by the single blade one (I always had to reserve it to be able to wear the watch).

I had then two question marks.

First one is the price of the Minute Repeater. The assessment of the prices of highly complicated watches is always a tricky exercice. At first glance, I thought that this price was too high when compared with other Minuter Repeater watches coming from prestigious brands of the same segment of Lange. But after all, the Zeitwerk features the digital display and the perfect coherence between the striking melody and the display (the time changes only after the hammers stop). And the feedbacks from the retailers were positive. So, I don't have any doubt anymore about the success of this watch.

Second one is the renewal of the Lange One. The fact that the new one is very similar to the previous one has a very positive impact: the consistency which is a key asset for a brand like Lange. On the other hand,  are the new movement and the jumping date mechanism enough to seduce collectors who already have a new Lange One? I am not able to answer. Anyway, the new customers will be seduced by this improved date display and maybe by the slightly thinner case (the watch looks a bit bigger than its predecessor).

Last comment I would like to make is that I have the feeling that the 2015 collection is not over. It is an anniversary year (yes, again!) and the agenda will be very busy since Lange will also open its new manufacture building at the end of the year. So nice surprises may come!

I propose you to enter the booth and to discover this new collection. I would like to thank a lot the Lange team for its availability and kindness during the week.

Zeitwerk Minute Repeater:
alang.watchprosite.com

Lange One:
alang.watchprosite.com

Saxonia:
alang.watchprosite.com

PG Datograph Up & Down:
alang.watchprosite.com

WG Datograph Perpetual:
alang.watchprosite.com