Independents

Craig LA
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My latest acquisition: De Bethune DB15

In 1989, F. P. Journe, Vianney Halter and Denis Flageollet founded Techniques Horlogères Appliquées S.A. in order manufacture state of the art complications for the watch industry.  They were later joined by Thomas Baumgartner (Urwerk).  With these four horological masters and creative geniuses under the same roof, that must have been an amazing workplace (a horological Manhattan Project).  As the years passed, each of them left THA to form their own companies and create landmark watches of their own.  In 2002, Denis Flageollet founded De Bethune (with David Zanetta).

I first held a De Bethune DB15 about a year ago.  I was awe struck by the watch.  As much as I loved and desired the DB15, my comfort level had not yet evolved to the point where I was ready to make such an acquisition.  That being said, I never stopped pining for the watch. 

De Bethune only produces 300-400 total watches per year, and there are not many DB15s in the wild (I think the total number is less than 50).  Therefore, I jumped out of my chair when, two weeks ago, a DB15 became available to me.  I quickly seized the moment, rationalized the expenditure, and pulled the trigger.

I picked up the DB15 on Monday and it has not left my wrist since.  I am absolutely thrilled with the watch.  I find myself staring at the watch relentlessly throughout the day.

The hallmark of the De Bethune DB15 is its unique three dimensional/spherical moon phase indicator.  The watch has a sphere made out of platinum (one piece) that rotates within the case/movement.  Half of the sphere is heat-blued (using a very complicated blueing process to ensure tonal consistency).  When only the platinum color of the sphere is showing, the moon is full.  Conversely, when only the blued portion of the sphere is show, there is no moon.  The watch hands are also heat blued and uniquely curved in order to clear the sphere protruding from the dial.  The dial is made of 18k gold and the roman numerals are applied via a complicated printing method that creates a three dimensional appearance.  Every detail of this watch is stellar!

The DB15 is also a full perpetual calendar, including a leap year indicator.  The Cal. 2004 movement is manufactured entirely in-house and features several unique and proprietary features (which I am not sufficiently knowledgeable to explain).  The case is 43mm.  The watch comes in rose gold and platinum (mine is rose gold).  Mine came with a black strap, but I purchased a brown strap (which De Bethune promptly shipped to me).  The straps are outstanding!  If interested, follow this link for an outstanding article about De Bethune: http://ornatus-mundi.ch/artikel_13/artikel_13_1.htm .

Enough of my drivel.  The photos speak a thousand words:

BTW, some of you may have noticed that the moon phase is not in sync with the date in the above photos.  I changed the moon phase for the photos in order to show a half moon.

Regards,

Craig