Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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Baselworld 2013: Paul Gerber
Famed independent watchmaker and AHCI member Paul Gerber invited me to his atelier a few weeks before the Basel watch fair to study his novelties in a more relaxed atmosphere...
This year Paul's focus was entirely on his entry level collections simply called Model 42:
The Model 42 watch is the first sports and aviation inspired timepiece Paul ever made, and at the same time the most affordable ever:
Housed in a 42mm titanium case (no, this is not the inspiration for the name, its simply the 42nd movement ever created by Paul!) the watches focus on those characteristics which make them suitable companions for outdoor activities: a very light but at the same time robust case with screw-down crown, 100m water resistance, an antiallergenic material, bold and clear design and high legibility.
The original Model 42 comes in two versions, a colourful variant called 'synchron' (please make a note of the name, we need it later!)...
... and an aviation-styled watch called 'Flieger' (pilot in English):
In place of the '3' we find a large date which - in contrast to other solutions - does not need the separation of the two digits on two disks:
How is this possible? It comes with a typical no-nonsense Paul Gerber solution: He developed a large date disks that is still light enough to be driven by the standard date mechanisms of the base movement. Here you can see the new disk compared to a standard disk of the ETA 2824 movement (make a note of that movement as well!):
The case itself demonstrates clear lines. I really like the comparatively large crown which makes setting of the watch an easy job, even if you wear gloves. On the back Paul fitted a transparent crystal:
The movement is called Cal. 42 but started its life as an ETA 2824-2, a tractor know for its precision and robustness. The three rotors are the second Paul Gerber speciality found in this watch!
What fascinates immensely are the radii of the three solid gold rotors: they overlap as one can easily imagine if you complete the circles Paul engraved in the movement holder ring:
However you turn the watch - you cannot make the rotors collide with each other!
If you take a closer look you might well spot the solution to the problem: A very elaborate shape of the rotors combined with a central 'coordinator' wheel which synchronises the rotors and fixes their relative position next to each other:
Paul has taken the time to create a special winder that helps to illustrate the mechanism (here with his completely in-house Cal. 41 movement which carries the very same winding system):
The triple-rotor winding system is carried out as an in-house module mounted atop the ETA 2824-2 movement. The finishing is such that it matches the base movement's decoration:
The triple-rotor winding system is carried out as an in-house module mounted atop the ETA 2824-2 movement. The finishing is such that it matches the base movement's decoration:
With more conventional watches one is enticed to sniff at large movement holder rings as they indicate the cheap way of watch construction: take an existing movement and simply match it to a (large) case by means of the said ring. Here the situation is quite different: a large diameter of the holder ring is necessary to accommodate for the three rotors that by far extend over the ETA's 25.60mm. In total a fully-fledged 36mm are necessary to grant the rotors free passage.
What is interesting here is to spend a few moments on how Paul used the additional read estate: On the above image (top left) you can see the half-circle shaped washer Paul devised to secure the movement in the case. It needs a relatively laborious cut-out on the holder ring (image below, left). Technically absolutely not necessary but Paul still wanted to give it some character.
Also, he used the engraving of the rotor radii to note his names as well as the movement number:
Finally, Paul did not hesitate to create his own buckle (in titanium as well):
Altogether an exciting and highly individual interpretation of a sports watch that is loaded with typical Paul Gerber idiosyncrasies. And this for substantially less than 5000 CHF!
Finally, Paul did not hesitate to create his own buckle (in titanium as well):
Altogether an exciting and highly individual interpretation of a sports watch that is loaded with typical Paul Gerber idiosyncrasies. And this for substantially less than 5000 CHF!
I should note that this watch also was the basis for the long sold out Paul Gerber Model 42 PuristS 10th Limited Edition (image Dr. Andrew Daley; for more information on the watch click here!):
Next I'd like to present a funny variation of the same watch. Take a close look at the eye of the seconds hand:
What is this?
It is a miniature version of the Fiat 600 Multipla van from the 1960s which Paul restored several years ago. He still takes it out for a tour quite often:
Let's start with the latter:
Other manufacturer would have to sponsor a classic car team, Paul only needs to walk down into his garage ;-)
Overall, this watch demonstrates how easily he can individualise his watches if the customer so desires! This specific version of the Model 42 watch is not my style but I like the concept and the commitment Paul shows to fulfil customer's desires.
The above is all but an prelude to the real novelties Paul Gerber presented this year. He added two very useful complications to the Model 42 line, a second timezone (Model 42 DT; top) and a day/night indicator (Model 42 DaN; bottom):
Let's start with the latter:
The sub dial shows the earth’s northern hemisphere. The free area indicates day, whereas the other half of the dial under the lattice indicates “night”.
To set it adjust your location to the 6 o’clock position when the sun is at its highest point.
The earth plate has a nice 3-D impression and is complex as well...
The earth plate has a nice 3-D impression and is complex as well...
... as the image plate it mounted on a wheel...
... with 5 minuscule screws!
The Model 42 DaN comes in the Flieger (all above) as well as in a synchron version (below):
That leaves us finally with the Model 42 DT (for dual timezone). Here we find a very useful second timezone with 24h day/night indication at 6 o'clock. First the Model 42 DT Flieger...
... followed by the Model 42 DT synchron:
A small detail but - at least for me - an important one: Paul made the effort and matched the second hour hands precisely to the respective dial design (first Flieger, then synchron):
Chapeau, Paul, very well done! I must be totally clueless if these watches would not fly out of his atelier.
That's it, I hope you liked it!
Cheers,
Magnus
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P.S.: One more thing:
But this I (cruelly) reserve for a later time point!
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-07-25 09:12:47 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-07-25 17:35:54 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-08-03 11:30:40
Baselworld 2013: Paul Gerber
Famed independent watchmaker and AHCI member Paul Gerber invited me to his atelier a few weeks before the Basel watch fair to study his novelties in a more relaxed atmosphere... This year Paul's focus was entirely on his entry level collections simply cal...
My Turn to Say What a Great Guy Paul Is
What other watchmaker has his warmth, friendliness and easy, down-to-earth personality so unanimously lauded? My wife and I visited the Gerbers a couple of years ago, and had an experience so similar to the positive experiences recorded by all of their ot...
wow
Incredible guys what a beauty !! Please can we know the price ?? Have a nice day Best Giancarlo
Prices...
are usually not discussed here but Paul provides them on his website anyhow. Thus: Model 42: CHF 4875.- Model 42 DaN: CHF 5800.- Model 42 DT: CHF 5750. Hope this helps1 Magnus
Paul is Another kind
Of a flavor to the independent watch making sector and so are his timepieces . Thanks for posting Faisal
Yes, the Ruth Gerber....
has piqued my interest. Please do tell. And thanks for a wonderful report. Paul's watches are fantastic. Darren
A very nice review!
For me all of Paul's watches are just that much off the beaten (or beating!!) path to make them not only interesting and desirable - but obtainable - without losing his or my own sense of direction. This is the sensible way to go. The escapement in the Ca...
Thanks Magnus
Always great to heard about Paul, and the new pieces are great. The winder is very Paul! Will look forward to hearing about Ruth's piece!
Magnus, your report is superb ...
and therefore I can only add some pictures I took at Basel: Paul is probably on of the most decent persons in the industry and it is always a great pleasure to talk with him. Some of the new "details" are great and some are not to my (visual) taste. One d...
Maybe I'm a purist (small 'p')
But I like the PuristS (big 'P') in Paul Gerber watches. Their 'simplicity' belies the 'duality' in the complex micro-engineering conception and execution. He is a true and pure meister uhrenmacher but before that, a true PuristS. The simple solution of a...
Beautiful watches..
My favorite is the simple 42 pilot with just the date. The three micro rotars are stunning, but in the video it looks like they are not flowing freely. It looks like something is making them get stuck for a little while. Is that how it is in the metal? Th...
Three explanations...
1. Exhibition conditions I: I took the images at day three or four of the fair, so its highly likely that the main springs were already fully wound and thus offered significant resistance to the rotors. 2. Exhibition conditions II: Note that the movement ...
Not the ETA 2824-2?
FWIW it looks like the movement displayed is Mr. Gerber's manufactured calibre that he currently uses for the base movement of his Model 41 watches.