Breguet

Breguet showcased two significant complications this year; both were tourbillons, hardly surprising given the company's heritage. Despite offering the same complication, both watches could not be more different from each other. The first of the tourbillons is the monumental La Tradition Tourbillon.

Last year Breguet showcased the ungainly Double Tourbillon, a 44mm wristwatch with two tourbillon escapements linked by a differential, with both mounted on a rotating plate. It was an ambitious watch, and no doubt it sold well amongst football club owners, but I thought it too flashy; it lacked the finesse and classicism that a Breguet should have.

This year Breguet got its act together and unveiled the La Tradition Tourbillon, a watchmaking marvel. Containing a constant force escapement driven by a fusee, this La Tradition grande complication is what Breguet should be about. There is nothing cutting edge in this watch, it uses old technology, but it is still a remarkable achievement.

Apparently, the prototype shown at the fair was completed just the day before the fair began so there was little information available, but it was mentioned that the watch is based on two vintage Breguet pocket watches. Breguet certainly achieved its aim of creating the look and feel of a pocket watch, the La Tradition Tourbillon resembles a pocket watch with lugs attached. It is an imposing watch at 16 mm, a good deal of the thickness is due to the immense, domed crystal, just like those found on pocket watches.

This watch is certainly an appropriate monument to the resurgent house of Breguet, and is probably the first of many such supercomplications. I have said it before, Breguet is probably the most viable contender to challenge Patek Philippe for the crown; watches like the La Tradition Tourbillon go a long way in achieving that goal.

Messidor was the tenth month of the French Republican Calendar, which was used for several years after the French Revolution. It was also the month in which Abraham-Louis Breguet was awarded his patent for the tourbillon escapement (June 26, 1801 according to the Gregorian calendar).

Since Breguet never fails to remind us of its glorious history, its other significant complication of 2007 is the slim and subtle Tourbillon Messidor, named in honour of A. L. Breguet and his patent. It is a mystery tourbillon of sorts, sporting a tourbillon cage mounted on sapphire discs, giving the impression that the tourbillon is floating. In my opinion, this is easily the most handsome conventional tourbillon in Breguet's line-up, and it will be available in white gold and rose gold.

I appreciate the fact that Breguet has opted for a simple, brushed finished on the skeleton bridges. Many of the older Breguet skeleton tourbillons were decorated in a Baroque, floral pattern that was never very well done. In contrast, the finish on the Tourbillon Messidor is excellent.

Next comes two additions to the Marine collection. In 2006 Breguet presented a rose gold Marine chronograph with tourbillon, for 2007 the company the same watch minus the tourbillon. To my eye, the removal of the tourbillon at 12 o'clock spoils the balance of the dial, but the colour combination of the rose gold case and guilloche charcoal dial still remains very striking.

And for clients who have different tastes, the Marine Chronograph is also available with 'bling'.

For the ladies, Breguet now offers a smaller version of the bestselling Reine de Naples (Queen of Naples) watch.

This new model is also available with a delicate chain link bracelet; the bracelet is so fine that the watch had to be around a cushion to be photographed as it would not stand on its side.

In addition to the Reine de Naples, Breguet now offers a range of high jewellery timepieces for the ladies. These watches can be customised with any combination of precious stones and metals to suit each customer's whim and fancy.