Comparing Audemars Piguet watches in Milan and Geneva, exploring auction lots, and the quest for the perfect Royal Oak 5402. | Audemars Piguet

Last week, I went to Milan and Geneva (where the auction was held) in search of RO5402. I brought my 16202 with me to compare it to the real thing.

The original Jumbo and the latest 16202 Extra-Thin look almost identical, but I found that the 5402, with its flat case back, is actually thinner. This photo was taken at a store in Milan.

I came across a specimen in excellent condition right from the start and almost bought it. However, there was no guarantee, so I gave up on it.

The next shop in Milan had a fantastic specimen with a guarantee, but the price wasn’t right, so I had to pass on it.

This is the 16202 I brought with me. Compared to the Nautilus 5711, it feels stiffer to wear, but it’s very spartan and appealing.

At this year’s Geneva auction, most of the 4 auction houses offered attractive early 5402s. This one was offered by Phillips. Auction previews are very educational because we can actually handle the items.

Now, this Christie’s lot number 661 was the one I was most interested in when I left Japan (A787). I was hoping that the winning bid wouldn't be too high because the dial wasn't original. However, its condition did not meet my expectations. In the end, I looked at a total of five 5402s this time, but I couldn't find one that met all my criteria in terms of price and condition, so I'll look forward to purchasing one in the future.

In Geneva, I also visited AP House.I wanted to see the CODE1159 star wheel, but unfortunately there were no samples available.

Here, I was shown a large book about RO that was displayed on the wall. Under the section for the 5402, it said, ”1000 were produced in 1972, of which 400 were sold in Italy," which made sense to me, explaining why so many 5402s remain in Italy.