Independents

Jumping for joy

 

Earlier this year I had identified certain watches that were to go on a "short-list" of candidates for purchase in 2009.  I looked into models from several large manufactures, but ultimately decided that I wanted to pull the trigger on a watch from an independent maker.  As many of you know I collect flat-top acoustic guitars, and have greatly enjoyed my collaborations with independent luthiers.  For me, there is nothing quite as exciting as working with an artist (as the best luthiers and watchmakers can be deemed) to realize a piece that is perfect for your individual needs.  My positive experience in the realm of guitars helped inform my decision to seek out Richard and Maria Habring, founders of Habring² Uhrentechnik of Volkermarkt, Austria.  I must pause at this point to extend my thanks to Don Corson, who was my first point of contact in this journey, and who kindly serviced to me much of the initial information I was seeking about Habring² watches.  Don also graciously made the introductions between myself and the Habrings, which went a long way toward making me feel confident and comfortable in my subsequent dealings with them.

When I approached the Habrings initially they asked me what I was looking for ideally.  I gave them the following specs:

- 42mm stainless steel case (the standard Habring² case material and size);
- a manual-wind jumping seconds movement of Richard Habring's design, the caliber A07M, based on the ETA Valgranges with Richard's jumping seconds mechanism (As opposed to one of the limited edition Habring²s that included a Chezard movement.  Richard indicated there might be one or two left from that run of watches.);
- rhodiated hands and applied numerals/indices;
- a thermally-blued second hand;
- "dove gray" galvanic metal dial.

The Habrings normally stock both an anthracite and a silver metal dial, but didn't know if it would be possible to create a shade in-between those two colors, as per my original request for "dove gray."  I was concerned that the anthracite dial, while attractive, would be too dark to showcase the blued second hand; and conversely the silver dial seemed very white in all the pictures  -- something I didn't want in a metal dial.  The Habrings tried to accommodate my request, and went back to their dial maker (Who I think is Cador, a company founded in Switzerland that is now based in Germany, I believe.) to have them run tests on various metals in combination with the galvanizing process that creates their metal dials.  After testing was concluded it became clear that there wasn't going to be a way to create the color I thought I wanted in the galvanic metal dial.  The Habrings offered an alternate solution of creating a dove gray enamel dial for me.  They also simultaneously offered to ship to my attention in Los Angeles two sets of dials, one anthracite and one silver, set up with the combination of hands/indices that I required, for my review.  During this time they also took new photos under various lighting conditions of the silver galvanic dial because perhaps they knew that my description of the dial being "white" was not accurate to the real-life color.  The new photographs taken of the silver dial ultimately swayed me into choosing it for my watch (I'm glad I didn't make them send the two sets of dials all the way from Austria!), because I realized the color was very much in line with what I had originally sought.   

Now, with the dial tribulations sorted out, the Habrings got to work on my watch.  They were actually able to get one into production for me quite quickly, as the options and movement that I selected were available.  One fun thing the Habrings offered me, was my choice of serial numbers.  They make runs of no more than 12 per year of this watch and No. 1 for 2009 had already been taken, so numbers 2-12 were still available.  I chose to have my watch be designated 03-2009 as "3" is my favorite number.  I also got to choose my strap, and decided on a medium brown Riva-style calf strap.  I think the strap makes the watch sporty, but still classy. 

I got my new watch about a month and a half after contacting the Habrings initially.  I will admit that it was a bit nerve-wracking to order a timepiece that I'd never handled in person.  When the watch arrived I opened the small pine box with trepidation.  Would I be happy with the quality of the watch?  Would I be happy with my own design choices?  Was the silver dial going to be sufficiently different enough in color from the rhodiated numerals, so as not to swallow them up into a monochromatic mess?  Would the dial be a color that would allow the blued second hand to POP -- after all I wanted to highlight the jumping seconds complication!?  All my concerns were silenced when I got the watch in my hands.  It's a lovely piece with a great deal of heft coming from the steel case, which is made by Fricker of Germany to the Habring's specs according to their website.  I was surprised by how substantial the case felt on my wrist, while still being extremely comfortable.  I think the elongated curves of the lugs help to achieve this feeling. 

Another added bonus of purchasing a Habring² is that Richard and Maria include many spare parts for your watch in a special compartment in your watchbox.  I took a cursory look at the parts, and noticed everything from replacement strap pins to a whole new set of hands, crown and gaskets.  I think Richard and Maria want their customers to be able to service their Habring²s locally.  Providing you take your watch once a year to be tested for watertightness, the Habrings offer a robust 3-year warranty on their timepieces.  I think my only two regrets at the moment are 1) I should've ordered a long strap so I could've had a bit more tail as it sits on my wrist.  That's my own fault because I normally wear a standard strap, but this Riva is a bit short due to the watch's height; and 2) the jumping seconds complication is so fun to watch that I must agree with Don and say that I'd like to see the Habrings open up the plate on their movement a bit, so we can see more of the jump seconds mechanism. 

I'm very pleased with my manual-wind Habring² Jumping Seconds.  It is a great, solid watch at a good price point.  I know several people had expressed some concerns about the level of finishing on this particular model, and I was prepared for shortcomings in that area, but honestly I'm happy with what I've received.  I'll be curious to hear what my fellow PuristS think.  Some of you will undoubtedly get to see it in person in the coming weeks.  It was extremely rewarding to collaborate on a custom timepiece with Richard and Maria Habring.  I cannot say enough nice things about them.  They were very kind to me throughout the process, and I feel as though they extended themselves in every way to make my customer experience a pleasant one.  It's these personal niceties that make all the difference to someone like me.  I would not hesitate to collaborate with the Habrings on another watch at some future date.

Sorry for the long note.  I guess I wanted to share with you a bit of the journey that got me to this watch.  I look forward to your collective comments.  Thanks again to Don Corson, Richard Habring, and Maria Habring for helping me bring MY Habring² to life!

Cheers,
Daos


A view of the jumping seconds from the dial side.


A view of the jump seconds mechanism in the caliber A07M.

The rear crystal is slightly raised up off the case.

The crystal is lightly domed, and rises up off the graduated bezel.  If you look closely you can see the shaped second hand -- a thing of beauty.  I really like the lugs and crown on this watch.

A shot that lets you see more of the Riva strap.

The lovely vertical satination on the silver galvanic metal dial.  It contrasts nicely with the circular satination that runs underneath the indices.

The watch is fairly beefy, as you can see here.

A proper wrist shot. This message has been edited by dxboon on 2009-05-28 06:19:22 This message has been edited by dxboon on 2009-05-28 06:34:53

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