Vacheron Constantin

Moderator Patrick_y explains why he selected the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX as his choice for Most Impactful Novelty AND The Best Value Novelty of the 2018 SIHH. A launch of an entirely new watch line is something that is not unusual in the watch busine...  

but please don't ever put a cartier caliber in a Lange🙏

Remember the old 1815s made before 2009? Those had one-sided finished movements. A total cheat. Lange wasn't always angelic neither. And I can't say that watch introduced a whole new demographic into the world of high horology. On the other hand, this Vac... 

I have a Saxonia Thin 37mm and I’ve showed it to master watchmakers and they agreed that the finishing is second to none.

Teardowns of early 1815 Langes have shown they weren't finely finished in many places where it wasn't visible. A Lange executive has previously said that this was "a dark time for A. Lange & Soehne" and has vowed it won't happen again. Today's 1815 mo... 

There might be many and this very well might have been the case, but Lange was a very new brand trying to figure itself out and mistakes can and do happen along the way. No shame in that. What would have been shameful is if Lange went backwards and made a... 

While I have to say that Lange is still among the best, they still make mistakes, some are still substantial mistakes. The closer you look, the more likely you'll find something wrong. It's definitely possible, even with Lange. Unless you know everything ... 

and was little impressed (having a clear memory of the earlier pieces), particularly of the Saxonia automatic. Both the quality of the anglage as well as of the engraving of the balance cock were clearly a notch below what I would expect.

As a collector i am always looking to learn from others. Do you mind explaining what you found to be subpar in their engraving and bevelling? Quality of finishing is very important to me and i have spent countless hours comparing the finishes on my watche... 

It was originally on www.thepurists.com website, the original website to PuristSPro. Writer was "8Ohms" or something like that. Found it... ei8htohms.tinyparts.net Unfortunately, the link to the original posting is dead, probably because t... 

I appreciate the effort, but the result is contradictory. The main, big flaw is the non in-house movement. It has been stated that it comes from Cartier, a good movement , likely very carefully finished, but it seems a makeshift choice. As you reported, t... 

"I appreciate the effort" is all that we owe Vacheron Constantin for this creation. Vacheron Constantin can't give a whole VC movement with high finishing and a Geneva Seal at this price point. Imagine the betrayal their former customers would feel if Vac... 

What do new collectors, or simply purchasers, buy today? Brand name (logo), resale value, quality? We all know the answer. I absolutely agree with Velociphile,the making of cars is much more expensive, that's why they use modular chassis. I can buy Skoda ... 

“ With a price tag of under 12,000 Swiss Francs, the Vacheron Constantin distribution, this watch really brings the world of haute horlogerie to a pricepoint that is accessible for a wide population.” Is it still haute horlogerie? By using a good bit defi... 

I think it's not exactly the watch for most PuristSPro readers. Keep in mind, PuristSPro readers are the most sophisticated readers about watches in any public online forum in the world. And I've read many of your posts in the past years Bruno, I know not... 

Richemont would just let the various manufacturers be. If you want to buy a VC it should be just that. Why not put a VC movement in a Cartier, that would be a fair trade off.

Compared to other conglomerates, there is relatively very little technology sharing among the brands within Richemont. Each brand does have most of its identity intact. This particular watch just happens to be one that does use a movement from the Richemo... 

Your point is well taken, I suppose a newbie who starts of here will likely move onto patrimony, overseas etc. I know JLC did that for me starting with the MUTM then Reverso and finally caliber 2121.

Admittedly, JLC was my first introduction into horology as well. I was mesmerized by the Reverso Duo and the clean art deco design. I never acquired a JLC, but I have to credit JLC as it certainly got me thinking about watches. This VC may be that "bug" f... 

Don’t really understand the value of it; better off buying from another brand at this price tag. Apparently some well known Watch bloggers and website people participated in the design or gave their input .... no more comments

I didn't know that they invited watch bloggers to participate in the design. I can say with certainty that I definitely did not get the invitation. If I had, I would've made much more curvaceous and concave lugs. The design is definitely a very "middle of... 

Personally I love VC and possess a few of their creations. I also value their client treatment. But...this watch is a missed opportunity imo. The design is too average and the non in- house movement can do more damage than good imo, to the eyes of collect... 

Trying to be as neutral as I can. I feel that I mentioned where the FIFTYSIX is imperfect, specifically citing the "safe case design" and the "[movement] is a Richemont Group movement with a flat balance spring and standard balance wheel", but I also appl... 

Appreciate the fact that you replied and the additional thoughts. All points are taken, but to say that the watch is about to disrupt the industry and that it will change the perspective of millenials on haute horlogerie is outside of my reasoning; hence ... 

Had dinner with some friends and apparently I've got some Millennials who aren't so sure they'd buy this VC. The Millennials who are watch people and PuristSPro-level watch appreciators state that the date is obviously forced and when they learned the mov... 

I agree with the 'they shouldn't have done this' sentiments. Giving up on Geneva Seal is a cheap move, carefully disguised on their website in the way this piece is presented. At least it leaves a future opportunity for them to proudly announce that, "All... 

Yes, I really disliked the button blanks in the 996 Porsche 911s. Those were so unattractive. I don't think this piece was intended for collectors on PuristSPro. We'd consider buying one of the higher-end Vacheron Constantin pieces. But, overall, it's a g... 

1326 Front 1326 Back 2475 Front, Geneva Seal-ed movement 2475 Back, Geneva Seal-ed movement ...  

overall, I think VC is doing well to address a lower price point market, which the Overseas has grown out of unfortunately. This new creation is probably a start and I personally not too keen on some of its design elements, but I'm sure there will be foll... 

The point I'm making with the article is that VC is providing a "gateway drug" for new collectors to get into horology. And I'm appreciative that VC is doing this! We're definitely one of the few websites that have mentioned the date window being too smal... 

I certainly see the logic of moving into a lower, more attractive price range and from that point of view I think VC has done well. Where I am less convinced is the overall product. And not because I would say that it compares unfavourably to another bran... 

The Quai d'Ile models are definitely cool pieces. They're big, they're definitely unique, and they're radical. I still miss the one where you can customize to your own preferences. I'm a little sad that never really took off. And they come with VC's Genev... 

Having appeared around the financial crisis it never took off the way Vacheron intended...

The date in this articular model is so small that it can easily be overlooked so that it does not disturb the dial face, if you want it not to. I guess VC tried here, successfully, to make the balancing act between leaving the date away, as in historic mo... 

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While I do not know for certain, it is reasonable to assume that VC is in financial trouble. So we can all criticize the non-Geneva movement, date placement etc, but we should all hope that the watch sells well.

VC is steady, no financial trouble that I'm aware of. No major layoffs, large capital expendiure plans continuing. There are other brands in the Richemont and Swatch group that have significantly greater days of inventory than VC. No reason for the watch ... 

.....really nice review. Really enjoyed how you meshed teh history into the evolution. I think its a nice watch and a valiant attempt at capturing the history. "Feels" like a VC. Good review.

I'm steeping a special tea that was given to me from an incredible individual who drove four hours to take me to lunch and to tea. This will only be the second cup I've had of this particular tea. I let it steep a little longer than I'm probably supposed ... 

....no hotter than 90 degrees.

For green teas, I tend to use a lower temperature, as there's a real burning risk. Matcha tastes fine even lower, 80 degrees is actually fine. I don't like to drink it too hot, so I always try to use the lowest I can use to reduce my wait time! I also mak... 

... let me quote you on the very point that puts me off when it comes to the watch: „ The Achilles’ heel in this case (no pun intended) is the date window is a little small, and to my eyes, it’s two millimeters too centrally placed courtesy of the smaller... 

I like your no compromise approach! Maybe VC's designers were trying to take a "minimalist date approach" or something like that. But in my eyes, and apparently yours, we're not fond of the date. Personally, I like the Quai watch, I even like the modern d... 

Let's be honest, they're all in this kind of mess because of the insane pricing, lack of buyers and with production facilities geared up for volume that isn't there. Over the period 2000-2015 Rolex Sub prices went up 2.5x with inflation 1.4x That's a comp... 

But you can't lower prices for the same quality product, that tells your former consumers that you're being disloyal to them. You have to increase your prices because every other brand increased their price during record high demand and normal supply. You... 

I have to add my opinion that it did/does not make a big impact or even particularly good value along side other watches in the market (JLC or Montblanc if you want to stay in the same house). I don't think it even makes a wave.. maybe a ripple as it open... 

I agree with you. But I still think this watch will make a lasting impact, not for you, but for new-to horology people (the Harry Potter book would call them the "muggles"). The brand equity of Vacheron Constantin is so tremendous that this lower pricepoi... 

Most of the other brands have in-house movements too, the one I saw (maybe a SIHH proto), the finishing was medium and apart from the gold rotor was not better than most brands offering an ETA. Maybe VC are just sitting back on their name rather than prod... 

I'm in the wait and see mode. Pass the popcorn.

A very fresh approach how to describe this new line! I think this new line is a bit of a double edged sword. On one hand you make the brand more available to a broader public. Here we have the one time or first time buyers, newly into watches. A bigger gr... 

And here are some of those super exclusive watches for veteran collectors... I really liked this automatic tourbillon. I always disliked winding rotors on automatics. Hence why I try to buy micro-rotor automatics or manual winds. But this is a rotor that ...  

Thank you for these shots, Patrick! The blue balloon is just insane! Best Blomman

I think with all the critical responses above from PuristS; we can see that there is a lot of passion and knowledge when it comes to Vacheron. A lot of us really want VC to do well and to offer great beautiful watches. I wish Mr. Ferla and his team at VC ... 

Seems like you're a fan of the Overseas! Thanks for reading and sharing your opinions! I appreciate the criticism that others have provided, but I think VC will especially appreciate your suggestion!

To have the design of a collection driven by market forces feels forced to me, even though I'm not particularly concerned by the lack of in-house movement in the basic model.

But what about the impact? Do you think it will have a positive impact, bringing more people to horology and to VC? Maybe the whole strategy isn't to sell FIFTYSIX, but to sell Quai d'Ille steel watches for 4000 CHF more with a Geneva Seal and a true VC m... 

Can't imagine this collection having an overwhelming appeal to longtime collectors. For the casual enthusiasts, even at the more accessible price range, it's still a lot of money for what's rightfully advertised as a luxury item. I don't doubt VC has done... 

Sorry it this is an opportunity lost IMO. If your going to do it do it right.

Seems like the audience on PuristSPro wants something that's more pure VC, not one with a "borrowed" movement.

The first thing which bugs me is the presence of the date. Centered or not, it kills the dial. Even more when centered like this. Then, the hands. Which look banal. Then, the movement... Well, for such a price, I would have expected a Geneva Seal at least... 

Remember just a little more than 10+ years ago, say 12 years ago, even Patek Philippe Nautilus was not hard to get, and was right around 13,000 Euros (or close)? I remember at that time, thinking it was expensive for a steel watch... Wasn't far away from ... 

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...but I must disagree with the conclusions about value, finishing, and product/market fit. In the first case, it is most certainly not a haute horlogerie calibre. The Etachron regulation, smooth balance, unused jeweling, and unfinished main plate, disqua... 

Thank you for providing your Millennial context! I agree, with today's internet generation, and how Millennials love to research about what they're buying, they may discover that the very standard flat balance spring and basic balance wheel contributing t... 

The main thing I'd like to highlight is, the movement being machined finished with less handwork like polished anglage. That, to me (as someone who values a watch movement), is clear signs of brand dilution just to fulfill a lower priced market segment. I... 

they're still living in their own world instead of adjusting to a new normal. Years of 'steady as she goes' denial has become bargaining in the form of 'look at the data...see....., signs of recovery,' neither of which means any of these companies are pre... 

They knew it too. We will find out if it sells well. I agree about the anglage. To me, the anglage is one of the most important things I look for in a movement. One of the reasons why I'm not always crazy about JLC watches too, their anglage isn't polishe... 

due to Greed and mass production of patek watches , chatter on anglage of pateks became common lately too . Patek should reduce their prices also since they are giving this inferior quality finish even on non entry level watches . Iam sure this inferior q... 

I was among the first to point out the "chatter" on the photos of a very nice 240 Q caliber Patek Philippe perpetual calendar. The sad thing is that people often put Patek Philippe on a pedestal and admire the brand like fan boys. In reality, every brand,... 

It’s not in the mentality of high end / luxury brands (especially one such as Vacheron Constantin) to make special offers and reduce their margins or, to summarise, offer a better price-quality ratio to their customers. So, if Vacheron wants to offer new ... 

It's definitely not a watch aimed at the super collector nor the average PuristSPro reader. But I thought it was a bold move by Vacheron Constantin, I thought it was a major disruption in the market for a Top Tier maison to take such a risk. And I applaud... 

Best wishes Alkiro

Actually, the strategy here has a precendent at the house of Vacheron Constantin, the Medicus Chronograph (image credit: Govberg Jewellers): The movement here is what make the new Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX look so familiar: Again, an outsourced movemen...  

and they chose the version without the polymer pieces.....

Thank you for sharing this Magnus! I completely forgot about it... Movement actually looks nice if you don't look at the regulator. Don't look for a column wheel neither since it's a cam system. Thank you Magnus for sharing your good memory with us!

Some good elements: --good, modern size, without going overboard --distinctive case, that looks to the past without looking old --hands are fairly nice --stainless steel The bad: --I simply cannot get over the movement...don't stroke me and tell me I'm bu... 

The watch would look better without a date. I really like the folding clasp too! That's always a nice touch!

I should have included the folding stainless clasp under the good category. Nicely done by VC even if I prefer a regular tang buckle for comfort. Cheers, John

Thank you for your wonderful review- i truly enjoyed it. However, when i saw these watches at SIHH i was severely disappointed. The problem here is not only the movement used by VC and abondoning the Geneva Seal to lower the price, but the fact that VC th... 

Great post. Great question... I'm admittedly not a consistent fan of the Overseas neither. Watch this space. There will be some more pieces mentioned here in the coming weeks and months. Along with some more inspiration for future Historiques pieces.

For me, the FiftySix collection and more precisely the entry level watch are not good news for Vacheron. To be honest, it is not a question of quality of these watches. I find them uninspired but they are after all well made. Having said that, the problem... 

It's definitely an unexpected strategy for Vacheron Constantin. Such a high end brand to debut such an accessible timepiece. I look forward to seeing how the piece is received by the public in a few months time! Thanks again for posting Fx! Always great t... 

First of all, I am a new watch collector and although I know the importance of VC on the matchmaking history and its greatness I have to confess I am not a conoceur of the Brand. That been said, i have to say I really love the look on the watch, the grey ... 

Generally the media is very positive about this watch. But, the media is predominantly written by paid professional writers, the majority of whom are not personally watch collectors or avid watch lovers. Here, on PuristSPro, we try to take a more balanced... 

Love the article, as you said it is actually very balance, I am learning already, looking to ve more selective. cheers

Yes, like the vast majority of our readers, you'd probably be considering something a little more upscale in the Vacheron Constantin collection! Definitely be selective! You've got to LOVE IT. You can't just like it. Think, twenty years from now, when you... 

you check out the steel Quai d L'Ile in any of the three colours. A very versatile design covering dress to casual, available for a 'realistic' price from ADs with a proper VC movement and Geneva Seal. If that is too large a piece, go for a classic Patrim... 

That´s exactly was I ment, I rather wait and save a couple bucks more and get the Quai d L´lle (love your recommendation) or the HISTORIQUES TRIPLE CALENDARIO 1942 (love that watch, hope to see a review on that reference soon) the difference is not that m... 

I don't know of a review on that watch coming soon. But I don't know that it's been ruled out neither!

At the boutique. Just the steel date and the gold full calendar. Impressions 1. Case design in the flesh is really really nicely done. 2 Dial and hands also. 3 date not so intrusive as I was expecting on the base model in reality 4 movement finish side by... 

Personally, I don't know why they still make calendar watches without "intelligence" like an annual or perpetual calendar. I think it's downright misleading because the salespeople at Authorized Dealers aren't properly trained on it, I remember a decade a... 

...as you are foregoing the Geneva Seal and a proper VC movement... I always was thinking that AP is the candidate to leave the “Holy Trinity” but now with this piece it looks more like VC is on its way out. Furthermore, AP’s CEO mentioned at SIHH that AP... 

Big B did say that, among a lot of other things such as new retail concept stores with certified pre-owned pieces. Looking forward to the new line at AP!