Zenith

Valentin Blank
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Pictorial essay and in-depth interview with Zenith CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour

The star is rising again
Pictorial essay and in-depth interview with Zenith CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour



A chimney towering over Le Locle

From almost everywhere in Le Locle one can spot a huge brick chimney that seems to tower over the whole town. This chimney has been standing there for more than a 100 years and belongs to the Zenith Manufacture. Pondering the beauty of this industrial monument one would hardly guess how eventful the past century was for the people working under the roofs of the numerous buildings belonging to the Manufacture. And while for some of the other watch manufacturers, after they had survived the so-called quartz crisis, things seems to have calmed down this can't be said of Zenith.



Turning into Billodes street, one faces the characteristic brick chimney that towers over the Zenith Manufacture consisting of 18 (!) different buildings


During and even after the quartz era the Zenith company changed hands several times. Finally, in 1999 Zenith was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Group and in 2001 Thierry Nataf was appointed CEO of Zenith. Mr Nataf takes the credit of having modernised both the collection and the company itself. He successfully managed to free the Zenith brand of its somewhat tame and antiquated image. His mission was also a commercial success. Any yet, for many friends of the brand – including your author – Mr Nataf ultimately went too far with his radical redesign of the whole collection and the latest models becoming ever more daring, even sometimes outlandish. (To be fair, it has to be noted that there were a few gorgeous exceptions.) It is against this background that at least one camp of Zenith enthusiasts sighed with relief when they learned about Mr Nataf's departure from Zenith.



Ingredients of a real manufacture: a warm oily smell in the air and a time-honoured wooden floor (dating back to 1865!)


Nervously the watch world awaited the announcement on who would be Zenith's new CEO. Enter Jean-Frédéric Dufour, a man with a solid background in the watchmaking industry. After graduating in commercial and industrial sciences at the University of Geneva, Jean-Frédéric Dufour made a veritable tour d'horizon through the haute horlogerie.



A view from inside the Zenith headquarters building on Georges Favre-Jacot's tomb (marked with a plaque)


When I recently met Mr Dufour in my home town, he suggested that we continue our chat over lunch in Le Locle. He invited me to visit the manufacture and agreed to be interviewed. On the following pages you find a transcription of this in-depth interview. Alongside the interview you will find a pictorial essay on my visit of the Zenith workshops.


Introductory remarks by Jean-Frédéric Dufour

Jean-Frédéric Dufour (JFD): When I joined Zenith, the challenge for me consisted in finding out what Zenith was, to find the roots. In every cabinet I opened I found material on Zenith in abundance. So, gathering information on Zenith wasn't the problem. The difficult part was to connect everything to a synthesis, so as to make the customer understand what he buys. I had to find the recurrent theme. And one day, when we had the idea of the Pioneer Spirit everything suddenly seemed to fall into place. Georges Favre-Jacot was a pioneer, there have been pioneers among our customers and today we have got our modern pioneers, such as Jean-Louis Etienne who with an El Primero Striking 10th on his wrist performed a solo flight over the desert of ice in the North Pole in a balloon.



Dials and movements of the Striking 10th Jean-Louis Etienne waiting to be encased


When I took the helm at Zenith, I wanted to do something strong. Pondering Zenith’s history, I realised that a strong thing had been achieved already: the creation of the El Primero. However, I was quite surprised when I saw the ads for the El Primero. They stated that the El Primero is the only watch capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. At a product meeting I asked how we are supposed to read the lapsed time with such precision on the current dial and with the seconds hand making one round per minute. The answer was that we can't, unless we use a magnifying glass. So I had the idea of making a Foudroyante that shows 1/10th of a second instead of the usual 1/8th. My idea was also influenced by the fact that on the original 1969 El Primeros a decimal scale was used. In my view the decimal system is the only useful one for measuring time in an industrialised world. Yves Corthesy, head of the R&D department, came up with the idea of having a hand perform one rotation in ten seconds. I wanted to kiss him for this! [beams]



Encasing the calibre 4052 B in a Striking 10th



Striking 10th watches receiving their crowns


This outcome could only be achieved because here at Zenith we talk to each other and constantly exchange and challenge our views. To stay in your corner and think you are the best doesn't lead you anywhere. So, whenever I have an idea I share it with my colleagues and gather their opinions. And I expect them to do the same. Fortunately, we are a small team which enables us to engage in such exchanges in a very efficient and transparent way. We are in Le Locle, a mountainous city that lies 1’000 metres above sea-level. People are real here. I like their straightforwardness.


Design-related questions

Valentin Blank (VB): The Zenith watches of the Dufour era are charismatic and distinctive. In contrast to the recent past the new collections speak a clear language and appear coherent up to the tiniest detail. What has led you (and your designers) to change and clarify the look of Zenith watches so fundamentally?



The gyroscopic module of a Christophe Colombe on a screen in the R&D department


JFD: When you are leading a company, you have to know where you come from and where you are heading to. The former is called history, the latter strategy. If you want to succeed, you need to connect both. When I joined the company, I noticed that the history of Zenith was not completely in line with the strategy. Moreover, the watch market was in a state of crisis. That’s why I thought it was about time to broach the subject of pricing. For I noticed that customers were no longer afraid of asking the price of a watch. They wanted to know what they pay for. And the great thing for me was to know that Zenith is not a marketing company, it is a true watch manufacture offering genuine value for money. Zenith is a 146 years old company, it is part of the Swiss watch heritage. So, keeping this at the back of my mind, I created something the market wanted. We hit the market at the right time with the right product at the right price.



The stunning Christophe Colombe, still missing the power reserve hand and the crown


VB: Some models of the current Zenith collection obviously still bear the aesthetic language of Mr Thierry Nataf (e.g. the minute repeaters, the Chronomaster). How do you plan to resolve the incoherences between these models dating from the Nataf era and the new Zenith aesthetics?



Some final touches being applied to a Class Traveller Multicity Alarm


JFD: Every company has different collections. Take the fashion industry or the car companies to name but two product categories. Between these categories it is just the cycle that varies. Let me give you another example: If you fly in an old Boeing you will feel thrown back into the eighties because the colour of the carpet is wrong etc. On the other hand, if you fly in a brand new Airbus you will feel very comfortable because the colour codes match and the interior follows the current trends. For the watches we produced in the past it is quite the same. Not only the watches Mr Nataf came out with were sometimes out of scope but also what we produced in the seventies during the quartz era. All the companies had their bad times. However there were also good times, because what Mr Nataf did was very successful at the beginning. He stayed for eight years, he put back the company on the run-up, he introduced the Open concept. So, he did well. Even the Defy wasn’t completely wrong actually, the concept was there. Now, in order to return to your question, I can inform you that we bought back older Zenith models from our dealers so as to clean the market and prevent the prices from dropping. The current selection of Zenith watches on the market is therefore very representative now of who we are.



Cutting edge machinery inside the prototype workshop allows for fast development ...



... and helps the R&D department to try out new designs and technologies


VB: The latest Zenith watches reveal great attention to detail. This can be seen for example in the perfect length of the hands. With other brands and also with former Zenith watches this has been a sometimes neglected detail. How would you characterise your relationship to detail?



Installation of a press tool that was made in-house



The in-house tool production allows for consistent quality as well as greater autonomy in the watch manufacturing process


JFD: For fine watches the details are key. You cannot produce a fine watch without details. And in this context simplicity is important. I visited the Expo in Shanghai. The concept was, how can we have eight billion people live together on one planet without damaging it too much. And the keyword at the end of the Expo just above the exit was, ‘Return to Simplicity’. On a car a detail can be like 10 to 20 centimetres, whereas with a watch a detail means a tenth of a centimetre, sometimes half a tenth. It is important to develop a sense for this, so that in the end you will be able to judge the right length of a hand or an index. This is what it takes to make a perfect product. Years of practice are requisite but also passion. You know, some people simply don’t care about the length of an index.


Movement-related questions

VB: Zenith has two outstanding base calibres that repeatedly have performed well in tests all over the world. They also lend themselves to be used for complications (as it has been done repeatedly). Yet, in comparison to other watch manufactures two base calibres still seems a fairly small number. Are there plans for a third base calibre?



Movement plates awaiting further processing


JFD: We are relaunching this year the calibre 2572. It’s a very strong calibre, originating from the sixties. It’s a bit thicker than the Elite movement. The 2572 allows us to have an entry-level collection with a self-winding movement. We will use this calibre in its basic setup mainly for classic watches such as we made in the past. But I also have plans for a completely new calibre which is coming soon and which is going to be a big surprise. Furthermore we are going to launch an annual calendar watch this year. Its base movement is an El Primero. For the calendar we use a system developed by Ludwig Oechslin. Moreover, we aim to come out with another new calibre for Zenith’s 150th anniversary. My dream would be to launch a completely renewed El Primero 2. For the El Primero will be 46 years old then and it will be time for something new. Obviously, this doesn’t mean that we plan to stop the production of the current El Primero movement. But I think it is interesting to have an evolution.



Milling out base plates for the relaunched calibre 2572



A watchmaker preparing a set of plates for industrial machining


VB: Recently I read somewhere about your plan to produce a calibre with an even higher frequency rate than the current 36'000 vibrations per hour in order to allow for even greater accuracy of Zenith chronographs. Assuming that humans are probably unable to handle a chronograph to a greater accuracy than the already available 1/10th of a second, I would be interested to learn more about your rationale behind these ambitions apart from the obvious buzz it will create.



The perlage pattern is applied by hand on the plates



Sorting out jewels


JFD: Admittedly, such a high frequency is not rational in a way. People aren't looking for precision anymore. But I like the concept of the second being split into small divisions. We were able to get ten such divisions with the Striking 1/10th and I would like to show 100 divisions. It’s not about precision, it’s about showing the heart of the second. And it’s also about the mechanical challenge, of course. We want to show the people that we are capable of doing it. More than a mere mechanical challenge, this project will also make demands on the creativity side.



Quality control (here tolerance testing) is an integral part of the various stages of the Zenith manufacturing process


VB: The watchmaking industry has traditionally been highly segmented and things like balance springs and jewels are generally produced by specialised companies even for manufactures that claim to design and produce their own calibres. Could you shed some light on which parts of the Zenith movements are produced in-house and which aren't?

JFD: There are about 300 parts in an El Primero movement and we produce some 250 of them in-house. Mainly jewels and balance springs are bought from specialised suppliers.



Mounting the mainspring and transfer wheel on a calibre 400 B ...



... followed by a lever


VB: Are these proportions the same for the complications?

JFD: For the complications the proportion of in-house production is higher still. Even the chiming mechanism (including the gong itself) for our minute repeaters is produced internally.



The beguiling chime of a Zenith minute repeater



Assembling a tourbillon


VB: After issuing new watch models with both a high recognition value and a beautifully clean design, it will be a considerable challenge to remain true to the reborn stylistic purity when it comes to adding new models to the line. Additional functions can easily compromise this magic simplicity. So, how do you plan to preserve the Zenith signature in this inevitable evolvement and at the same time avoid the risk of becoming stereotypical?



Finished tourbillon carriage


JFD: This year we come out with the second part of the collection. So, the rest of the Elite line is getting a face-lift (e.g. the Moon Phase and the Dual Time). Besides, we work on a new axis, the legendary watches. Inside this line we have all the Charles Vermot models, but there will also be a pilot watch that borrows some stylistic elements from the Captain case but with a matte finish. It will have a diameter of 42mm and a bigger crown. There will only be two counters, making the watch very affordable. Then we are introducing a new model with a ceramic rotating bezel. And finally, we are also coming out with a new Open Heart model, which feels a bit like the younger brother of the Tourbillon. These additions will bring all the models in line with the new Zenith signature and at the same time allow us to address different types of customers even within the product lines.


Questions related to Billodes and Le Locle

VB: The Zenith Manufacture buildings obviously stem from different eras and testify the successful and sometimes also troubled history of Zenith over the decades. During my workshop visit today I learned that you plan to install the workshops in the Georges Favre-Jacot brick building. I think this is an excellent idea which proves once more your commitment to Zenith and your will to lead Zenith to the place it deserves in the watch landscape. Could you tell me a bit more about your plans?



A view on the Georges Favre-Jacot building (built in 1870) which is going to be completely refurbished and later house the different workshops currently scattered all over the area


JFD: I see it as my challenge to reorganise the rather complex concept of buildings here at Zenith in a modern and efficient way. I want to provide a logic and continuous path through the workshops that follows the production steps of the watch. This is why I decided to completely refurbish the Georges Favre-Jacot building. The aim is to have the raw materials coming in on one side and the finished watches coming out on the other side. This is really quite an ambitious project. For example, 189 huge windows need to be replaced. I am very excited about this project, it has been my dream ever since I joined Zenith. When I was in Paris to reveal my plans to the shareholders they looked at me and said, you look so convinced we can't say no. [laughs]



One of the lower floors of the Georges Favre-Jacot building currently serves as a storage facility for the marketing material



The top floor of the Georges Favre-Jacot building is now being emptied in view of the upcoming refurbishment


VB: Are there any other constructions or renovations planned?

JFD: In the distant future we are going to refurbish the administrative building, which was built in the seventies. It is poorly insulated and eats away a lot of energy.



First signs of the upcoming workshop rearrangement


VB: Does Zenith maintain any close relationships with its competitors here in Le Locle and beyond? And how would you describe the local climate among the competing watch companies in Le Locle?

JFD: Let me give you an example. The boss of Ulysse Nardin, Pierre Gygax, is a former colleague of mine. Sometimes I call him in the morning while we are both on our way to work and I invite him for a coffee and we have a chat. Here in Le Locle we speak with each other.



Captain El Primero watches waiting for the straps to be mounted


VB: May I ask you in this context about your personal connection to Le Locle?

JFD: Twelve years ago I worked for Ulysse Nardin, so I know Le Locle very well. Later, when I had a position with Chopard, I still visited Le Locle two or three times a month because our dial supplier was located in Le Locle. By the way, Zenith mainly works with the same supplier, so I continue to see him regularly.


Brand-related questions

VB: Will Zenith open their own retail stores, just like Chopard, Patek Philippe, the major brands of Swatchgroup and others?

JFD: There are already some, Plaza 66 in Shanghai, Tsum in Moscow, TimeCity in Beijing and Dubai Mall in Dubai. Another store is due to open in Hong-Kong. For now, we haven't got any plans for a store in Europe. This is also because we are very well represented.



In this picturesque workshop the final assembly of the watches is taking place



Intermediate accuracy testing of El Primero movements


VB: Zenith was once a highly reputed clock manufacturer with the Zenith Locloise being known and appreciated for both its accuracy and its charms. Are there any plans to relive the clock business, maybe with a modern reinterpretation just like Jaeger-LeCoultre did with the Atmos?

JFD: There is no market anymore for the classic Locloise clocks. The Atmos is a unique concept because you don't need to wind it. In contrast, Zenith clocks require winding and people are no longer ready to spend time for winding their clocks. Also, every time you go away for a couple of days you have to reset and rewind the clock at your return. That's bothersome. On the other hand, we still employ a specialised clockmaker in order to provide the after-sales service for Zenith clocks. This will always be guaranteed, of course.



Zenith forever ...


VB: One of Mr Nataf’s initiatives I liked was to associate Zenith with art. Other watch brands have done this before and yet – depending on the art you associate yourself with – it still offers a nice way of making a unique statement, doesn’t it?

JFD: If you get me a pioneer artist, I would be very interested in winning him for Zenith. We would need to connect him to our Pioneer Spirit message. This isn't so easy. In our Golden Book where the testimonies of famous owners of Zenith watches are collected, there are a lot of entries by famous artists from the beginning of the 20th century. Not long ago, I was in touch with an Asian pianist but things didn't evolve in the right direction. We need a real pioneer and one whose image isn't already spoilt.


Questions related to Jean-Frédéric Dufour

VB: You look back on a steep career in the haute horlogerie. After positions with Chopard, Ulysse Nardin, Léon Hatot and Blancpain, what are the major changes between your former work and your current position as a CEO with Zenith?

JFD: The biggest change for me is that as the one who drives the company, the one who holds the helm, I can no longer unplug. Since twenty months now I have not been able to stop thinking about business-related questions for more than an hour. Even on holidays this proved to be impossible. You know, I tried hard, I went to a remote island somewhere in the middle of the sea because I really needed a break and yet I failed to disconnect. I couldn't help caring about the business. My Blackberry was still working and I kept checking it constantly. I also called the caretaker just to ask if everything was okay. I really got quite addicted. A second change is that as the CEO I can set the pace. Now I can go full steam and nobody tries to stop me. This is quite exciting. So, as the head of the company you not only work, you get emotionally entangled and committed. You feel personally responsible and that makes a big difference. It's very motivating.



Jean-Frédéric Dufour leafing through a book on Le Corbusier (the page spread showing Georges Favre-Jacot's mansion)


VB: Please accept my heartfelt congratulations to your election as ‘Man of the Year 2011’. It is well deserved, if I may say so. How does it feel to be awarded this honour?

JFD: It is a nice thing because it was really a great surprise for me. What makes it even nicer is that the award comes from some of the oldest people of the industry. It is great to be awarded such a distinction. More important to me, though, was that I was honoured because I been able to reconnect Zenith with its successful history. This gives me confidence in going my way. For, you have to know that when I took up work at Zenith and talked about my plans, some people thought I was crazy. Some of the watchmakers who got used to produce those big and daring Zenith watches we know from the recent past were very sceptical at the beginning and even sometimes worried. Now they love what we do. It took six months to convince them. And those who still doubted the new direction left. I had to be quite tough at the beginning. People had the choice of either following me or leaving Zenith.



Jean-Frédéric Dufour proudly presenting two novelties to be introduced at Baselworld 2011


VB: Permit me a final question: If you had to limit yourself on one sole watch to wear day in, day out for the rest of your life, which one would it be?

JFD: It wouldn't be an aesthetical or technical choice, it would be an emotional one. I'm thinking of the watch I got from my wife when we decided to get married. I won't tell you which one. [smiles] It comes from the competition and it was made for left-handers – I'm a left-hander. In earlier times I used to wear the watch at the weekend. Now, however, I can't do this anymore, people wouldn't understand it.

VB: Jean-Frédéric, thank you so much for taking the time for this interview and for the unforgettable workshop visit! I am impressed with your inspiration, the commitment of your watchmakers and your plan to refurbish the workshops.


Closing words

In the last picture you can see Georges Favre-Jacot's mansion which he had built by the famous Swiss architect Le Corbusier. The generous home is located a few steps uphill from Billodes and grants a perfect view over the Zenith Manufacture buildings.



Georges Favre-Jacot's mansion, built by Le Corbusier, presiding over the Zenith conglomerate


I have no doubt that Monsieur Georges Favre-Jacot, were he still alive, would be deeply satisfied with what he would see and learn about Zenith's successful return to their roots.

Thank you, Georges-Favre Jacot, and thank you, Jean-Frédéric Dufour.



Valentin Blank, January 2011 This message has been edited by Dr No on 2011-02-13 07:21:16 This message has been edited by Dr No on 2011-02-15 07:12:26 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-02-17 09:08:13

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