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I agree with everything posted so far, including much of the detail (the why's) Harv makes

 

Hi,

Often a brand has a "look" or "fit" distinctive to them. But be careful, brands which are "brand extensions" of an original signature brand - think Hugo Boss - may have lost that design DNA.

Besides Zegna, Pal Zileri and Regent already mentioned (if you ever meet Olivier, you would give his advice lots of weight!)

I would add

Corneliani
Canali
Kiton
Isaiah
Eton
Etro

And to the extent you can find "originals" (not bespoke) Armani, Miyake and Kenzo.

I used to LOVE Brioni but find their current stuff much too off the shelf and mass for their price.

You should do a little research and learn the real substance behind "quality" of a suit or jacket or slacks, beyond the marketing blah blah. (Sorry if this sounds pedantic, it isn't meant to)

For example, I like Zara - I like their cut, I like their material. But I also realize there is a reason they are so (relatively) inexpensive. Same with A/X...so price - value figures more in the picture than when I am being fitted for Kiton or Isaiah. Current Brioni is on the other end of this spectrum - they are off the chart (meaning I wouldn't consider them) at anywhere near retail.

Harv mentions body type appropriateness - I agree. I also suggest you consider a personal "fit" style - Corneliani and Pal Zileri tend to be a tighter, more "tailored" fit. (Tailored has many meanings...here I mean narrower, more body shape hugging)

Canali and Zegna tend to be slightly "fuller cut" even if equally "tailored"

Think straight vs slim fit vs skinny jeans vs boot cut vs bell bottoms in jeans.

If you get more into this, you'll start to see a Neapolitan style vs Roman vs Parisian vs London...not to mention the technical details of each style (like armhole high or lower)

And materials...

So like watches and cars, so too clothes - raw material quality + design + execution + attention to detail + price=YOUR style choice.

Have fun!

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24 Comments view entire thread 

(tailor discussion) advise a young professional, help him look sharp

 
By: xsw : January 12th, 2012-03:50
Hi, I noticed most of you professionals have immaculate taste in suits. As a young professional I haven't had much exposure with big name brands and tailors; so I hope you can guide me in the right direction to look sharp at work! haha I'm thinking of som...  

I'm ordering my business suits from Zegna

 
By: dr.kol : January 12th, 2012-04:18
and always with two pairs of trousers. Not badly priced and very good quality. I recommend. Best, Kari

thanks all for sharing your taste

 
By: xsw : January 22nd, 2012-19:19
Everyone has such fine taste, its so much harder now lol zileri, zegna both sounds equally good. Great discussion I learnt a little bit of something abt suits frm everyone!

# of fittings for zegna/zileri

 
By: xsw : January 22nd, 2012-23:44
Almost forgot, how many fittings do we do over there?

In the past ...

 
By: small-luxury-world : January 12th, 2012-07:46
Zegna was my first choice, when they did everything in Italy/Switzerland. Today I would recommend REGENT for business suits, Loro Piana for more casual jackets and Attolini for shirts ... Recommendation: no compromise when it comes to tailoring quality - ... 

xsw didn't you

 
By: Ares501 - Mr Green : January 12th, 2012-08:19
posted on this same forum something about Ice and public transportation in Japan or was it someone else? Regards

Looking classy

 
By: Harv : January 12th, 2012-11:15
Dear Young Professional: First, for a person to look sharp and classy the most important factor is the fit, i.e., how does it fit you and your body type. Example, I think that a portly, overweight man looks better in pleated trousers than flat front ones.... 

I agree with everything posted so far, including much of the detail (the why's) Harv makes

 
By: ThomasM : January 12th, 2012-16:11
Hi, Often a brand has a "look" or "fit" distinctive to them. But be careful, brands which are "brand extensions" of an original signature brand - think Hugo Boss - may have lost that design DNA. Besides Zegna, Pal Zileri and Regent already mentioned (if y... 

*update* settled for Pal Zileri Su Misura

 
By: xsw : January 28th, 2012-19:50
Picked a navy blue, probably going with a superwool 100 or 120. I might not want it to cover the bum fully and break this rule lol. I bet this is a daily event for most of u. However its my first hahaha. I really, really hope it can meet my expectations. ... 

Harv's response is very informative and helpful

 
By: RJW : January 12th, 2012-16:11
I would also suggest you spend a bit extra and go for bespoke or custom tailoring for the correct fit and style. Your tailor will have access to hundreds of fabrics (including those of Zegna). Otherwise you are just buying off the rack with or without mod... 

bespoke shoes, isn't it the same

 
By: xsw : January 28th, 2012-19:42
I don't have any personal experience yet when it comes to bespoke shoes. From my understanding, we pay a premium for it to be made to measured, but isn't a size X feet..just size X. There might not be much marginal difference compared to an off-the-rack.

Harv, you are so right.

 
By: ling5hk : February 23rd, 2012-20:18
A relatively unknown Shanghai tailor resides in Hong Kong tailored my 2 piece suit so well in terms of comfort, fit and material quality. No fitting at all and it was done within 48 hours. He is much much better than a lot of tailors from big brands. Rega... 

probably fused, if its 48hours.

 
By: xsw : February 25th, 2012-04:01
But I guess the most important thing in life is that, as long as you like it and happy with it its all good.

Haven't bought a suit in quite awhile, but...

 
By: Emil Wojcik : January 13th, 2012-09:59
...my favorites were always Chester Barrie, Oxxford Clothes and, when I wanted something less conservative, D'avenza Roma. Emil

Kiton and Ralph Lauren Purple Lable for formal clothing...

 
By: radone : January 30th, 2012-02:48
...including shirts, ties, etc. Isaia Napoli for summer clothes. Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and Neil Barrett for smart casual. Kiton and Berluti for shoes. Best, R

Beyond the clothes - it's how you wear it

 
By: nickd : January 30th, 2012-05:19
I have the sartorial elegance of road kill, so I wouldn't dream of commenting on suits (and I haven't worn one in over a decade). One thing I do notice is that how you wear it is as important, if not more important, than what you wear. You see people at w... 

very well said nick, that's why I told the tailor not to over-compensate

 
By: xsw : January 30th, 2012-20:07
Its all about wearing the clothes and not letting the clothes wear you. Told the tailor I would like to have natural shoulders, and no padding for the shoulders. He mentioned that it is a difficult task as Zileri traditionally *has to add that in* their c... 

Update for a young professional

 
By: Harv : February 23rd, 2012-15:54
Dear Young Professional: Every Thursday the New York Times has a section on Styles. Today's (February 23, 2012) lead article is entitled "How to Wear A Tux". Within the article is also a discussion of how not to weat it. If you can access the article, eit...