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An unexpected newcomer

 

A few weeks ago, thanks to a friend whom I thank wholeheartedly, this little marvel, the Grand Seiko ref. SLGW005, found its unexpected way into my collection.




THE 45GS

Our dear KMII made a terrific post concerning the source of inspiration for this watch, the 45GS from 1968 and, more specifically, the no-date reference 4520-8000 with its calibre 4520A and iconic solid case backGrammar of Design meets Hi-Beat - a review of the Grand Seiko 4520-8000.






credit: Special Dial


THE CASE

The first thing I love about the 45GS and its faithful modern re-creation, the SLGW005, is the very subtly angular case designed by Taro Tanaka.

credit: Wadokei

I would call this design "simple, understated sophistication" as it comprises many details and refinements that only the attentive eye notices, blending into a harmonious and discreet whole.



The Zaratsu-polished faceted lugs feature multiple angles and are both separated and linked by a brushed section.



The polished reverse slanted bezel stands out from the mid-case while blending in harmoniously. 



The case is made of three separate parts: bezel, mid-case and case back.



The faceted lugs are one of the most distinctive and successful elements of this design.







The subtle contrast between the flat boxed sapphire crystal and bezel and the very slightly arched case is also very appealing.



And the signed crowned with its relief polished logo against the grained surface is another delightful element.


As well as the semi-recessed crown.




THE FIT ON THE WRIST

The 38.8 mm diameter case with a 43.7 mm lug-to-lug fits perfectly on my 16 cm wrist.





The 10.4 mm thickness is slim enough and I like the 19-16 mm size of the strap.





In real life, the lower part of the case isn’t visible and, contrarily to what this photo could let one think, the case always feels very well integrated to the wrist.




THE BUCKLE

Though not as understated as the rest of the watch and not my favorite part of it, the buckle, with the polished Seiko logo embossed in relief over a stamped, dimpled surface, is quite nice.




THE MOVEMENT

The high-beat (36,000 beats per hour, 5Hz) calibre 9SA4 is another great feature of this watch.



I know that it’s a debatable point, but I personally like that, unlike previous Grand Seiko calibres, it’s aesthetically styled as a Swiss movement. Why? Simply because I love this traditional Swiss aesthetic.



The click shaped like a wagtail, a bird which is symbolic of Morioka city near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi factory, is a delightful touch. 

And the winding experience is one of the most pleasing I know, whether from a tactile, visual or auditive perspective.



The blued hand of the 80h power reserve indicator is also a very nice feature.



The laser-etched Grand Seiko lion emblem is almost invisible on the back sapphire crystal, but can be seen from certain angles.






THE DIAL

The silvery-white or white eggshell double signed dial is the last element which deserves to be mentioned. It features a slightly metallic, almost pearlescent, fine-grained texture.



The Seiko logo is applied and, at 12 o’clock, sits the distinctive double index.



The applied baton indices are cleanly diamond-cut with facets that easily reflects light for great legibility.



The hands are also nicely faceted.



And, at 6 o’clock, are the applied GS logo, the Daini Seikosha factory lightning bolt logo and in-between, the “Hi-Beat” and “36000” designations.



All these elements make for a perfect "simple" time-only watch.




THREE RE-CREATION TIMEPIECES

As a conclusion, I would like to mention that, together with the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo (5098P) and the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache (5000H/000R-B059), this Grand Seiko (SLGW005) is my third modern watch which is a direct recreation of a model from the past.



The main element differentiating them from their source of inspiration being the fact that they feature a see-through case back and a very refined and gorgeous looking movement.



And, whereas the 5098P is a 2007 recreation of a 1925 watch and the Cornes de Vache a 2015 recreation of a 1955 watch, the SLGW005 is a 2024 recreation of a 1968 watch.





Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

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