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Patek Philippe's 'Aquatilus', ref. 5060S
Introduced in 1996, one year before the first officially named 'Aquanaut' model (ref. 5060A), the ref. 5060S has been a transitional model between the Roman numerals Nautilus ref. 3800 (about which I posted here) and the first true Aquanaut ref. 5060A: it had the same dial as the 3800 with Roman numerals and leaf hands, but had a redesigned 35 mm case (the 3800 was 37.5 mm) with lugs and without the iconic 'ears' of the Nautilus. This lugged case came with a leather strap and not with a bracelet. Officially part of the Nautilus collection and timeline, it was the first step towards the Aquanaut, its true precursor or forerunner.
This ref. 5060S (sometimes referenced without the 'S') was produced mainly in yellow gold (5060SJ) but also in rose gold (5060SR) and different dial variants were made, which you can see below. It is powered by caliber 330 SC.
Thanks for looking.
Best, Emmanuel
A/ ROMAN NUMERALS DIAL
1/ Yellow gold & black dial, ref. 5060SJ-001
credit: @aleksmladenovic (1-2) & Oliver & Clark (3-6)
2/ Yellow gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060SJ-010
credit: @queenbrandnames & everywatch
3/ Rose gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060SR-010
credit: a collected man (1-2), @classictimeclub (3 & 5) & analog shift (4)
B/ THREE ROMAN NUMERALS & STICK INDEXES
Yellow gold & opalin dial (unknown exact ref. number)
credit: classic 55 & @oldwatchlady
C/ STICK INDEXES
Yellow gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060J-014
credit: Rolex Patek Market (1-3) & Patek Monger (4)
credit: menta watches
credit: Rolex Patek Market (1-3) & Patek Monger (4)
D/ DIAMOND INDEXES
Yellow gold & golden dial with the iconic horizontal embossed bars of the Nautilus (hidden reference number)
credit: menta watches
E/ THE NAUTILUS 40th ANNIVERSARY & AQUANAUT 20th ANNIVERSARY TIMELINES
credit: monochrome & the hour glass
Patek Philippe's 'Aquatilus', ref. 5060S
Introduced in 1996 , one year before the first officially named ' Aquanaut ' model (ref. 5060A), the ref. 5060S has been a transitional model between the Roman numerals Nautilus ref. 3800 (about which I posted here ) and the first true Aquanaut ref. 5060A...
Thank you, Bill.
I really like the yellow gold, black dial, roman numerals variant very much. I even think I would choose it over any Nautilus. Just my taste of course. Cheers, Emmanuel
Love he yellow gold and black...
...just don't like how the Romans were 'flipped' toward the bottom. Patek (and others) do this a lot and it bothers me to the point where I'd never buy one...
I love the same variant,
including the flipped numerals and irregular space between them. I think I would choose this 5060SJ-001 over any Nautilus, but it's just my crazy taste. Anyway, thanks for your comment. Cheers, Emmanuel
This is why I love this site. Great work as always Emmanuel.
I never knew this and agree that this is a great model. The secondary prices are not crazy considering the historical bridge of this piece. I am not usually a fan of yellow gold, but this variant with the black (and I like the version with the dark green ...
What you describe here would be an absolute killer, Sebastian,
and I would definitely want it. Thank you so much for the kind words. Best, Emmanuel
I love the evolution of this line.
From beginning to current iterations, there’s something to love about each reference.
True, and this 5060S has a really special place in this line!
Have a great week. Best, Emmanuel
Your empirical analysis (with plenty of reference photos) is always great and helps me understand Patek history.
Especially since the 5060 is the fuzzy starting point of the Aquanaut (i.e. the moment it branched off from the Nautilus), it's rare to see such a focus on this Ref. n. Thank you as always
Thank you so much for your kind words, anaroku!
This ref. seems to be poorly loved, but I personally like quite a bit, especially the yellow gold, black dial, roman numerals variant). Best, Emmanuel
Thanks Emmanuel for the starting point of Aquanaut !👍
Your post adds perspective on my earlier one regarding Cubitus which has the DNA of Aquanaut as I mentioned with 1997 as the launch year. www.watchprosite.com
Yes, Gordon, I remember reading your great
in-depth post last November! I was and still am mostly insensitive or impervious to the Cubitus, unfortunately, but you showed perfectly how it’s a coherent part of a long term history. But it doesn’t make me dream, whereas the 5060S does! Cheers, Emmanue...