Vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Collector's Guide
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Vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Collector's Guide

By amanico · Feb 1, 2021 · 51 replies
amanico
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Amanico, a respected voice in the luxury watch community, shares his enduring affection for the vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut, particularly the Ref. 5060, 5065, and 5066. His detailed analysis delves into the aesthetic and practical elements that make these early Aquanaut references compelling alternatives to the more ubiquitous Nautilus, inviting readers to reconsider their place in Patek Philippe's storied sports watch lineage. This article explores why these models continue to captivate collectors, despite a notable design quirk.



I always had a soft spot for the Aquanaut, more than for the Nautilus, by the way. The 5060 and the 5066, and the 5065. 

I don't care about the see through case  back, so for me, it would be between the 5060 and the 5065. 

So the question is why I didn't get one, yet... 

First, here are the reasons of my attraction for this Aquanaut: 

- A very cool and young look. Its case is more my taste than the Nautilus. Same style but different. 

- The Aquanaut is not as sought after as the Nautilus, which is another good reason for me. 

- The dial, especially the tritium, which gives a lot of warmth , character and soul. 


- The size: Preferably 38 mm ( Ref 5065 ) but the 35, 6 mm 5060 also works for me. 

- The " Dice " shaped " bow, which has the good taste to not take much room when you stock it: 


- The rubber strap. I am not disturbed by the bracelet ( for once ), but my preference goes for the rubber, even if I am not a fan of rubber straps, in general, but there are two watches which work very well with a rubber strap: This Aquanaut and the Jaeger Lecoultre Reverso Gran Sport ( especially the Chronograph ). 



- Finally, the price. It is possible to find a nice one at a still decent price, at the contrary of the Nautilus. The price of the trend and hype, certainly. 

Now my only reserve: 

Have a close look at this dial... 


Do you see the applied 3? It is centered, in comparison with the other applied numbers. The fault of... The date. Remove the date, and put the 3 at the right place, and I would have already jumped on it. 

This is the only reserve I have... I still don't know if I will have one, one day, just because of that. BUT, STILL... I love it a lot. And I am wondering if I could come over this reserve and just get one. 

I noticed that on the current ones, this issue of the centered " 3 " has disappeared,  but, alas, they don't have these exquisite tritium indices which give it so much charm. 

Isn't it a killer, in yellow gold, too? 







What do you think? 

Best,

Nicolas

PS: All the pictures were borrowed to The Net. I will happily credit upon request. 

About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5065

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5065 represents the first generation, mid-size variant within the Aquanaut collection. Produced from 1998 to 2007, this 38mm model positioned itself as a contemporary sports watch offering within the Patek Philippe lineup, featuring the collection's characteristic composite strap construction.

The 5065 utilizes a stainless steel case measuring 38mm in diameter with a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 120 meters. The automatic caliber 315 SC movement provides 45 hours of power reserve. The watch displays a black dial and is fitted with Patek Philippe's signature black composite strap.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking an entry point into Patek Philippe's sports watch category from the brand's earlier production period. The mid-size 38mm case dimension and stainless steel construction make it accessible compared to precious metal variants, while the nine-year production span from 1998 to 2007 establishes it as the foundational Aquanaut reference for collectors focused on the model's development trajectory.

Specifications

Caliber
315 SC
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
38 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
120m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
VI
VinnieD
Feb 1, 2021

I owned a 5065 in 2003-2005 and it is a big regret having sold it (also financially...) The only thing I was not a big fan of was the big boxy clasp. The rest was perfect. If you find a good one, jump on it. Gold is even more leftfield - to be experienced on the wrist, in summer on a nice beach if possible.

GU
GuyT
Feb 1, 2021

I also always see the out of place 3, pushed there by the date. A no date version would have looked perfect and had that been the case I would already have one. I do still look and question if I could live with that unbalance and so far no!

AR
Arronax
Feb 1, 2021

At least it solves the 3 problem but introduces another bomb under the hood

TC
Tchela1
Feb 1, 2021

I’ve also considered it as well because I really like the 38.5m size. But, now I see the 3....

BA
baufoam
Feb 1, 2021

for the excellent post! I have admired the Aquanaut ever since it hit the market 24 years ago. I bought one of the first ones from an AD in Philadelphia. They are excellent watches. I prefer the Aquanaut over the Nautilus. The Aquanaut is more spare, more minimal and therefore ( to my eye) a more elegant watch. That’s why I prefer a 3970 over a 5970. I love Patek when they are at their “Minimal Best”. Truth is,I never met a Patek Philippe that I didn’t like. Thanks again for the post!

SG
Sgfortino
Feb 1, 2021

Smaller 38mm size but with some of the newer style features.

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