Vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Collector's Guide
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Vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Collector's Guide

By amanico · Feb 1, 2021 · 51 replies
amanico
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Amanico, a respected voice in the luxury watch community, shares his enduring affection for the vintage Patek Philippe Aquanaut, particularly the Ref. 5060, 5065, and 5066. His detailed analysis delves into the aesthetic and practical elements that make these early Aquanaut references compelling alternatives to the more ubiquitous Nautilus, inviting readers to reconsider their place in Patek Philippe's storied sports watch lineage. This article explores why these models continue to captivate collectors, despite a notable design quirk.

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I always had a soft spot for the Aquanaut, more than for the Nautilus, by the way. The 5060 and the 5066, and the 5065. 

I don't care about the see through case  back, so for me, it would be between the 5060 and the 5065. 

So the question is why I didn't get one, yet... 

First, here are the reasons of my attraction for this Aquanaut: 

- A very cool and young look. Its case is more my taste than the Nautilus. Same style but different. 

- The Aquanaut is not as sought after as the Nautilus, which is another good reason for me. 

- The dial, especially the tritium, which gives a lot of warmth , character and soul. 


- The size: Preferably 38 mm ( Ref 5065 ) but the 35, 6 mm 5060 also works for me. 

- The " Dice " shaped " bow, which has the good taste to not take much room when you stock it: 


- The rubber strap. I am not disturbed by the bracelet ( for once ), but my preference goes for the rubber, even if I am not a fan of rubber straps, in general, but there are two watches which work very well with a rubber strap: This Aquanaut and the Jaeger Lecoultre Reverso Gran Sport ( especially the Chronograph ). 



- Finally, the price. It is possible to find a nice one at a still decent price, at the contrary of the Nautilus. The price of the trend and hype, certainly. 

Now my only reserve: 

Have a close look at this dial... 


Do you see the applied 3? It is centered, in comparison with the other applied numbers. The fault of... The date. Remove the date, and put the 3 at the right place, and I would have already jumped on it. 

This is the only reserve I have... I still don't know if I will have one, one day, just because of that. BUT, STILL... I love it a lot. And I am wondering if I could come over this reserve and just get one. 

I noticed that on the current ones, this issue of the centered " 3 " has disappeared,  but, alas, they don't have these exquisite tritium indices which give it so much charm. 

Isn't it a killer, in yellow gold, too? 







What do you think? 

Best,

Nicolas

PS: All the pictures were borrowed to The Net. I will happily credit upon request. 

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5060

The reference 5060 is a significant early iteration of the Aquanaut line, introduced in 1997. This model marked Patek Philippe's venture into a more contemporary, sport-oriented design, distinct from its established dress watch collections. It was presented as a robust yet refined timepiece, catering to a clientele seeking a versatile watch suitable for active lifestyles while retaining the brand's horological standards. The 5060 laid the groundwork for the Aquanaut's subsequent development and popularity.

This reference features a stainless steel case with a distinctive octagonal bezel, measuring 35.6 mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, specifically the caliber 330 SC, known for its reliability and slim profile. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing scratch resistance and clear visibility of the dial. The case design incorporates a screw-down crown, contributing to its water resistance.

As an initial Aquanaut reference, the 5060 holds particular interest for collectors tracing the evolution of Patek Philippe's sport watch offerings. Its relatively compact size compared to later Aquanaut models appeals to those who prefer a more understated presence on the wrist. The 5060 was produced for a limited period, making it a notable piece for enthusiasts of the brand's modern history.

Specifications

Caliber
330 SC
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
35.6 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
120 m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MP
mpg13
Feb 1, 2021
Haha! I never noticed that. All the numbers are in a circle except the 3. Now that I see it I could never own one. ;-)

AM
amanico
Feb 1, 2021
Ah, you see? Quite disturbing, indeed...

VI
VinnieD
Feb 1, 2021
It has some quirks, like the minute marks which are a little all over the place

I owned a 5065 in 2003-2005 and it is a big regret having sold it (also financially...) The only thing I was not a big fan of was the big boxy clasp. The rest was perfect. If you find a good one, jump on it. Gold is even more leftfield - to be experienced on the wrist, in summer on a nice beach if possible.

AM
amanico
Feb 1, 2021
Yes, the minute markers are quite special, too, but less disturbing than the damn " 3 "... As for the clasp, if I get the watch, I would go for an aftermarket strap, me think...

GU
GuyT
Feb 1, 2021
3

I also always see the out of place 3, pushed there by the date. A no date version would have looked perfect and had that been the case I would already have one. I do still look and question if I could live with that unbalance and so far no!

AM
amanico
Feb 1, 2021
Without DATE... A killer, a pure killer...

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