Patek Philippe

In the first of this series of exceptional Patek Philippe watches we saw the incredible ref 541 grand complication from 1938. Now I have great pleasure in reviewing the second incomparable piece in this series, the reference 3699 Observatory tourbillon. This superb timepiece also happens to be Mr Philippe Stern’s personal watch.

The story of this piece begins in 1945, and the movement is the star of the show in the ref 3699. It is a 30m/m observatory calibre with a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, Guillaume balance and isochronous Breguet balance spring with inner terminal curve made by Andre Bornard. it was created as a competition piece. Yes we could liken the 3699 to a competition Ferrari GTO.  Bornand was renowned for his prowess as a specialist in the tourbillon complication. He was a well-educated man, who held the position of professor of escapement design at the Geneva School of Watchmaking.

The movement he designed, known by the movement number of 861115, – was precisely regulated by André Zibach. Andre Zibach was a renowned “regleur” or regulator- he was very highly skilled in his ability to regulate watches- especially for chronometry competitions. The movement is immaculately finished with superb anglage and silky Geneva stripes and it would compete in the Geneva Observatory trials. Zibach adjusted the movement no less than seven times between 1948 and 1959, and in 1963 Max Struder adjusted the movement again. Both Struder and Zibach were master craftsmen of the very highest calibre and of the very few who could regulate a tourbillon to observatory limits. Just for information, Max Struder was the one the men responsible for the creation of the Calibre 89, so yes, he is a superstar amongst watchmakers.