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As I am mostly interested in the movement side
Vaucher is the movement division of Parmigiani and supplies movements to quite a few high-end brands as well as private label, available in various leves of finishing. Vaucher labels this movement "the seed", literally as the seed where new brands can grow from.
On a personal note, I miss anglage and sunk screw and stone holes. One interesting thing is that the pallet pivots are not supposed to be lubricated. Noteworthy is also that the movement has a free sprung balance with a flat hairspring (no over-coil). The screw heads and the hands are black polished a superb level.
The discussion about the dial being "inspired by" or "a copy of" is for someone else. (But I like the design ).
The inspiration for my next possible purchase!
The Ref 96 was the first Calatrava and came in a 30.5mm case which might be deemed small even for some ladies watches these days. Still, the watch was produced for many years and one of my favourites is the Ref 96 with Breguet numerals. Fast forward to 20...
Someone once said that imitation is the ultimate in flattery
In this case, I think the superb finishing of the Murakamo is not mere flattery or imitation but takes the watch to whole different level. If the watch was finished to this level by Patek, it would probably be priced twice as much. In addition, I guess I ...
A fair point Nico!
For me if the 'copy' is a vast improvement on the original, then, it is ok. An analogy would be how the original NSX 'copied' but was a vast improvement on the Ferrari!
Oh, the NSX!
The NSX was sensational at the time of its debut and I like the comparison very much. Inspiration from Ferrari but far better than the 348 (which was the competitor then) and also outperforming the Porsche Carrera.
I have been blessed having owned in excess of fourty cars in my life
ranging from Nissan Micras to a Rolls Royce Corniche. I am very fortunate to have owned two Honda NSXs and they both remain the best cars I have ever owned. And I am comparing them to Porsche, Maserati, Aston Martin and AMG. Terribly under rated in the 90...
Inspiration vs Imitation
Interesting point. I see it a bit differently. The hands of the Patek follow the spade style, I personally love that. It is not Patek exclusive, many watch brands use that style for the hands, especially in classic-style watches (I am not sure if Patek wa...
Thank you for your feedback!
Yes the hands on the Murakamo are pretty impressive not just in this price bracket but any price bracket. Listed below are the three dimensional hands on a Roger Smith, Series 2, a watch costing almost nine times more than the Murakamo. Admittedly, it has...
As I am mostly interested in the movement side
Vaucher is the movement division of Parmigiani and supplies movements to quite a few high-end brands as well as private label, available in various leves of finishing. Vaucher labels this movement "the seed", literally as the seed where new brands can gro...
Thank you for your invaluable input!
I can tell you know your movements well I think it would be difficult to dislike the dial design which for me is the obvious selling point.
I think for the price Nico
Taking into account the extensive black polishing on the case and hands, one cannot expect a Voutilainen or Rexhepi standard of finishing even though it would have been desirable. I do understand that the company will be producing its own in house movemen...
USD20,000
I think it is ok but some may say it is over priced for a steel watch from a relatively 'unknown' new independent.
He! He! You are right about the highly subjective part :-)
And I thought it was reasonable taking into account the level of finishing of the case,dial and hands.
the breguet numerals makes the dial beautiful both in Black & Cream versions....
i think the case size is perfect too. Personally i like the Cream dial more. Best, mahesh.,
Thank you Mahesh!
I like the cream dial too and seem to have a fetish for watches with beautiful hands! Its relative exclusitvity is an added bonus My Moritz Grossmann piece unique Incoming in 2021/22 - The RW Smith Series 2 ...
Love love love this Roger Smith!
Cannot wait to see the wrist shot photos once you get it. Definitely worth the wait! Niall
Thanks Niall!
The RW Smith is my retirement gift to myself even though I did retire three years ago! And it took me 6 years to decide to order it only because of its relative high price compared to almost anything else in the market so some serious saving was necessary...
Yes, no doubt the journey has been arduous and the anticipation is barely manageable.
I too would be imagining on a daily basis
I only worry about one thing
The Series 2 is notoriously high at 13 or 13.5mm. That sounds daunting but I hope it fits the wrist well.
I thank you for your confidence Niall!
For me, if 13mm or 13.5mm comes even close to being near perfect, I would be over the moon!
Every Time You Show Which Watch
you like I find myself whole heartedly agreeing. I have been contemplating the very same watch as you. But, as you know, I am trying to curb my acquisition glands! I hope that you are all safe and well. Kindest regards Antony
Trust you to be looking at a 37mm dress watch too! :-)
I think the Murakamo will be a great watch to wear with its agreeable size and elegant dial. I know at least one other purist considering this watch so with an annual production of only ten watches, the purists could be buying a large chunk of the annual ...
Ah! It's a Question
of how you define them. Are they for wearing, investment, curiosity...you get my idea? The talk of rationialisation! I think that the black is dramatic and perfect with steel. I'm not so convinced about cream/steel...but I can see its appeal and beauty. S...
Go for the black then !
You know you have the money in your back pocket or under your pillow! For me it is the cream dial so if we both proceed with our purchases, this could be us below! ...
I guess they don't call you Big Omato for nothing :-)
Quite interestingly, during the turn of the century, the Calatrava was only 33mm. Have our wrists grown to such an extent or has it just been more fashionable to wear watches that cover the entire wrist?!
A timeless and classic design. I can understand why you covet such a beautiful watch but like you, I would have also preferred a manual wind movement, either in-house or not...
although I do like the micro-rotor of the Vaucher (Parmigiani). I just wished the movement could have been modified and finished to the same level as the hands and case but I guess that is the compromise given the price delta. Still an amazingly beautiful...
Thank you for your reply!
I have noticed one thing. Irrespective of how beautiful a movement might be, the dial of the watch is at least as important because that is what we see all the time when the watch in on our wrist. So if there was ever a choice of a beautiful dial with an ...
I would tend to agree although there are exceptions even today...
Regardless, the dial and hands are perfection. Do you know if the 3 dimensional Breguet numerals are hand painted and then lacquered? If so, looks a bit like Urushi lacquer but I am not certain since I do not know the ins and out of this watch 🤷‍♂️ ...
The dial is actually sourced from Switzerland
from a company called Gilwatch in Geneva. The numerals are printed a few times via pad printing to give them extra height so no urushi lacquer here. The hands are make by Yuki Precision in Japan. Basically, Kikuchi Nakagawa clearly discloses who does what...
I know what you mean!
It has been done so well, it does look like urushi lacquer but not! The dial is mesmerising nevertheless.
If you buy a Patek 96
hat you like and that is not refinished, you can send it to Patek for a full servicing. When it returns , the movement will be spanking clean and gorgeous. To me, the 96 is a better watch as it was made in the 30s ,40s with no machine aiding in every proc...
Thank you very much for your valued feedback!
Admittedly I was actually considering this very Ref 96 in platinum which seemed to be in good condition and is quite rare I believe in platinum and Breguet numerals. But I had to be honest to myself - 30.5mm?? That is pretty small compared to 36.8mm and n...
Patek 96 wears big.
Also, the example you showed seems to have some issue. If you look at the signature, the accent is gone, indicating that the dial has been washed and cleaned. And , if possible, get one with raised enamel signature. Also , look at the Swiss hallmark below...
Thank you very much for your kind oberservations and suggestions!
I know little of vintage watches to be honest but I do know many collectors prefer the original dial rather than a cleaned or restored dial. I am weird as I like my things to look as new and perfect as possible so perhaps vintage is not the direction I sh...
So, between Roger Smith Series 2
and George Daniels Millennium, which will you choose? . The Millennium will look like vintage but don't you think it is much more flavourful? I am okay with properly restored dial by manufactiurer but not okay with service dial that has been restored. I b...
Definitely the Millenium
I rate anything made by George Daniels very highly and the Millenium in 37mm is for me the perfect wristwatch. I personally would even rate it higher than Dufour's Simplicity as the dial on the Millenium is THE dial. Yes it is an automatic but I think any...
Do you know...
that the Millennium were made by Roger himself? So, when you ordered the Series 2, you already have a better version of Millenium. The only difference is Millennium has history and Series 2 does not. If Millennium is just another well made Omega, we may n...
I believe that
Daniels enlisted Roger's help to make the Millenium but he had a hand in it too. I know the Series 2 has Roger's improved version of the co axial escapement but the point is that the Millenium watch has a nicer dial, is 37mm compared to 38mm of the Series...
I understand.
As for me, I will have Millennium in any condition . Actually, if you ever see a nice example of Millennium, it is only because it was polished and cleaned up. You can get a lousier condition and have good watchmaker clean up for you. Same theory for the ...
I will definitely asking Roger when I see him next year
to collect my Series 2 but I doubt if he will oblige as he is so busy with his current projects. I would a Millenium watch in white metal - I believe only 5 were made in white gold. I am quite happy actually to own a vintage watch (although the Millenium ...
Ok...if I see
a Millennium, I will let you know . Then maybe you can sell me your Series 2 :
I may sell you my Series 2 even if you do not have a Millenium
if the height of the watch is too much! That is of course if you are interested
Talk to me when you try it :-)
It is a rare beast. I saw one in ACM and it sold super fast... as fast as a Dufour
I think they are the only authorised dealers for used RW Smith in the world
so let's see how I feel when I wear the Series 2. I was less than convinced when I tried it on in London last year but things can change Possibly too thick for me?! Time will tell ...
It is a very safe purchase
Many will take it off your wrist if you even hesitate . I think you will get use of the thickness after a month It wears very comfortably if you choose a more supple strap.
Thank you very much for your encouragement!
I figured it was a safe bet when I placed my order years ago so the way I see it, it is a win win situation. If I love the watch (noticed I said 'love' not 'like'!), I get to own one of the most coveted pieces around. If I do not, then, it is hello Voutil...
I would have chosen a Frodsham
instead of the Akrivia but that 42mm case with with the small lugs wears too large on my wrist.
I would do the same even if the Frodsham was 39mm
and maybe 40mm if they kept the short lugs! With the large movement size, theoretically, they could do a 40mm case. I did mention it to them when I met the owners but they felt that a 42mm would be more robust for the movement size.
Really?!
Hmmm, you don't think the hands and numerals look a bit similar apart from the fact the Murakumo has 3D hands, its numerals are black in colour and the dial is in cream instead of white?! But you are the Patek Ambassador afterall so one would expect you t...
I beg to dffer
Both watches have raised Breguet numerals and have similar shaped hands even though the Murakumo's hands are more three dimensional. Both watches spot a similar second hand counter at 6 o'clock with similar markings of 10,20,30,40,50 and 60 although the M...