Comments:
Chronomètre Optimum Questions
Dear Journees!
During my Geneva visit for Watches & Wonders, I finally had the chance to see and try a Chronomètre Optimum and the obsession for that piece just went further! And no less, I could also finally meet FP in person which was amazing!
I have 2x discussion questions for the community regarding the Optimum:
1) 42mm vs 40mm proportions (in pic below left / right): the lug 2 lug distance on the 42mm version is > 50mm which is too broad for me. But I somehow like a tiny bit more the "face" of the watch on the 42mm. Thoughts?
2) Winding feeling: the watches I could manipulate were almost fully wound. I was surprised how much resistance there is in the winding, unsurprisingly coming from the 2x huge barrels. But was wondering if that feeling is different at the beginning of the winding?
Thanks a ton for your thoughts and have a great WE! Patrick
my thoughts from my past Journe journey...
the overall proportionality of the 40mm is perfect, especially the bezel is the only differentiator for 42mm.
42mm case works better for person who have >18cm wrists.
I've not handled the this particular movement, so my thoughts on winding feel is based on CS & CB. Yes, there is a good level of feedback while winding - which personally I consider the cardinal delight of choosing a manually wound movement !
Congratulations in advance, great choice.
Best,
mahesh.,
Thank you Mahesh, that is helpful! And nothing yet purchased :) In any case, it will take time!
Hi Patrick
You are right. The Optimum is indeed a very special. I consider it one of the best watches from FPJ.
There is absolutely no difference on the face of the 40 mm and 42 mm. It’s only the case that is 2 mm bigger. Same movement, same dial. Personally I prefer the 40 mm due to the narrow bezel you get by choosing the small size. Y wrist is bigger than average and I still prefer this option. No right or wrong on this one. Just a question of preference.
Not completely sure I understand your second question. This watch has two very powerful main springs that indeed require a little more force to wind.
Thank you Christian!
I believe that no all dial sizes are the same across models, right? So if we take a 40mm CS, the bezel will be wider then a 40mm CO. Because the dial and the movement of a CO are larger. Now that is what tickles me a little bit. I usually also like thin bezels but in this case it appears the dial almost pops (similar to the Resonnance 2nd gen).
But in any case, this is not at all ruining it for me, far from it! I anyway would not take the 42mm due to my wrist size.
On the winding, i indeed noticed the stronger effort required to wind vs my CB. Comparing the size of the barrels, no wonder
. And they serve an important purpose in the CO. Was just asking if the winding becomes "harder" as one winds the watch or if constant over the winding...
PS: sorry for the obsessive questions!
But in any case, this is not at all ruining it for me, far from it! I anyway would not take the 42mm due to my wrist size.
On the winding, i indeed noticed the stronger effort required to wind vs my CB. Comparing the size of the barrels, no wonder
. And they serve an important purpose in the CO. Was just asking if the winding becomes "harder" as one winds the watch or if constant over the winding... PS: sorry for the obsessive questions
!
To illustrate:
Assuming movement and dial size are the same / remain proportional, we can see there are significant differences in how much the movement (and therefore the dial) occupies in a same FPJ 40mm case. I am probably stating the obvious here for you all, but I just never realised how much these changes impact the aesthetics of a Journe via the difference in the bezel width!
CO: 40mm case / 34mm movement. Movement is 85% of case
CR 2nd gen: 40mm case / 34.6mm movement. Movement is 87% of case
CS: 40mm case / 30.4mm movement. Movement is 76% of case
CB: 39mm case / 30.4mm movement. Movement is 78% of case
Best! Patrick
CO: 40mm case / 34mm movement. Movement is 85% of case
CR 2nd gen: 40mm case / 34.6mm movement. Movement is 87% of case
CS: 40mm case / 30.4mm movement. Movement is 76% of case
CB: 39mm case / 30.4mm movement. Movement is 78% of case
Best! Patrick
This is true, the CS at 40 is a bit different case than say, any Octa at 40. But the CS and CB are only available in one size each.
I think Christian’s advice was that for any watch available in both 40 and 42, the dial will be the same and only the case is different (you mention in your post you like the dial of the 40 CO better). In the older models it’s the same, except between 38 and 40… same dial, bigger case. Congrats on your CB, saw it in other posts and it looks great.
Yes, correct. If a watch is available in two sizes it’s the same movement and dial within that model.
Across models it’s a different size due to the size of the movements.
Indeed the size of bezel changes the appearance a fair bit. Add to that the overall proportion of the case and the feeling that gives. Personally I always found the 42 mm CO disproportionate and while I prefer the RQ in 40 mm, I think it also works well in 42mm. These are minute details and absolutely subjective preferences. Just remember to include the whole proportion of the case. It’s so important to handle the piece a few times if you consider a purchase to find out what you prefer. Options can be a hassle 😉
PS. Patrick. No need to apologize for obsessive questions! It’s what we are here for. 🤗
Indeed the size of bezel changes the appearance a fair bit. Add to that the overall proportion of the case and the feeling that gives. Personally I always found the 42 mm CO disproportionate and while I prefer the RQ in 40 mm, I think it also works well in 42mm. These are minute details and absolutely subjective preferences. Just remember to include the whole proportion of the case. It’s so important to handle the piece a few times if you consider a purchase to find out what you prefer. Options can be a hassle 😉
PS. Patrick. No need to apologize for obsessive questions! It’s what we are here for. 🤗
Hi Patrick, I had the same dilemma (40 vs 42) and was able to try on several at my local AD before FPJ went boutique only.
As others mention, the dials are the same but the case & bezel are thicker on the 42. Here are some photos that may help you. The first three watches are 42, the second three are 40. My wrist is 6.75” and my personal preference is for the 40.
Great to see those next to each other, thank you!
I have actually the same wrist size as you, so this is very helpful. And indeed, I would favour the 40mm too! On your pictures, one can see very well what I was replying to Christian above: on the CR 2nd generation, the bezel is very slim. And I am surprised how much the small difference in bezel width can change a watch!
Congratulations on a great choice Patrick
I think Journe‘s esthetics are Breguet-like with regard to cases, which means slimmer looks better. So for the older models, I prefer 38mm over 40mm and for the newer 40mm over 42mm.
Best
Andreas
Best
Andreas
The bezel question
In general FP designs all his watches with a 'thick' bezel. This is why the models offered in only one size all have the thick bezel look (CS, CB, CT, TN, UTC, etc). For watches that come in two sizes (40, 42), his default design is always for the size 42 - hence the thick bezel. That's why all the size 40 models with a 42 option will have a thin bezel. Basically the 42 is the "correct" design, while the 40 is the "secondary" design with a thin bezel.
You cannot compare the bezel size of a 40mm watch that only comes in 40mm vs. a 40mm watch that also comes in a 42. It's more an aesthetic thing than a direct size to bezel comparison.
As what Christian stated, the dial size are exactly the same. The one thing that is slightly different is on the movement side. The 42 will show slightly more of the movement than the 40. Not so noticeable on Octa models, but the new RQ is somewhat noticeable. Perhaps the CO as well but not sure.
In regards to the CO winding - mine starts with less resistance and increases tension when closer to full wind.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the super helpful perspectives!
I didn’t know this was the approach of FP! I will now look for a CO 40mm to try in the wild! I keep you posted when I can find one!