Blancpain

The short answer is I think so.

But let's face reality for a minute.  It seems that watch brands have been driving chronographs to greater and greater extremes of sport.  Some brands, IMHO have pushed way too far into the sport domain with chronos that just bristle and bulge with sharp angles, huge pushers, loud material contrasts.  No need for names.  You can think of them.  Many fall into the "give me a break" category.  It is logical that chronos form an important part of the sport segment since with all the subdials and buttons they are inherently sporty watches.  Certainly not dressy.

But they can be.  Case in point this one.

This is the Blancpain Villeret Monopoussoir (monopusher chronograph).  It really fits the dressy criteria.  It is discrete, thin, elegant.  You have to look hard to even find the chronograph pusher as it is integrated into the crown.  So there are no bulges on the flanks of the watch.  The dial is named by Blancpain "Havana Brown".  You can see that it is very complex with different hues according to the light and has a complex brushed finish.

Enjoy!

 

Jeff

Jeff, the Monopoussoir is indeed a very elegant chronograph, I had the privilege to own this white gold version a while ago:

There is some "but" though: when I picked up the watch I found the brown strap not perfect for the havanna dial. I was lucky enough to see a sun faded brown blancpain strap on a watch in an AD window and asked them if I could purchase that very strap; they have been slightly irritated about that request, but when they fixed it on my new watch they had to admit that it works way better than the brand new one ;-)

The havanna dial is a true beauty, but as my story indicates, it is very difficult to find an appropriate strap going with it - IMHO

Best wishes from sunny Hamburg!

First I agree on the importance of getting the right strap.  Can't say how many times I have fussed around with watches I own experimenting with different color straps to come up with the right combo.  And how much that improves the watch when you find that right match.  Indeed, there is great entertainment if you go to a custom strap shop like Atelier Bracelet Paris (in Paris, of course) and go through the whole drill of getting just the right strap.  You pick the exact hide you want, the portion to cut from that hide, the exact thread and sewing method, the right backing material, strap thickness--basically every single detail to make the strap really yours.  Great fun!

Second, I think there is more flexibility in wearing brown these days.  The old business suit blue/black thing is gone.  Easy to wear brown with a gray suit.  Of course, these days it seems I wear a suit only rarely.  Everything is business casual.

Jeff

I was going to answer with "Blancpain Villeret"   Either of them, the monopoussoir or the slightly larger 2-button are just about perfection in a dressy chrono, and the anthesis of the huge, extreme-sports-rated chronos.



A

Wow - I love this watch!   I've been looking at picking up a chronograph and have been leaning towards the BP Flyback 40 mm on a steel bracelet, and now this picture is making me think about my options differently.   Totally different look - and one I should definitely consider.

Besides the obviou aesthetic differences, is there anything else you can share that would help guide my decision.

This message has been edited by Thom Seattle on 2009-08-20 07:28:18

Is this an FP or Leminia ?

Blancpian is always FP for chronographs.
A

As Nicolas correctly points out the movement is a Piguet.  Blancpain uses a version of the Piguet 1185 in all of its chronographs, except the 1735.  Piguet is full sister company to Blancpain, fully owned by the Swatch Group and Piguet's CEO is Marc Hayek, the CEO of Blancpain.  The 1185 was developed by Edmund Capt of Piguet working with Blancpain.  Although developed for Blancpain, the 1185 is also sold to Audemars Piguet for the Royal Oak Chrono, Vacheron for the Overseas Chrono, Breguet for their automatic chronograph, JD for their chrono,  Daniel Roth and a few other brands.The movement features column wheel control and a vertical clutch design.

I absolutely love the Monopusher Chronos, like this one, the UN  or the JLC Duo metre.

Some will say that it is an old solution, which has been improved by the use of several pushers, I will stay with this configuration.

It gives a cleaner look, it adds purity to the whole watch.

I'm a big fan, indeed.

Thanks for this post, my friend.

Nicolas

I am a fan of Blancpain and I follow their products well.

But given that for the last half a century  at least....... black, very dark blue, and or white have been the tones for formal dress.... and browns, tans  and chockolates have been casual atire.... this watch seems to me to be a contradiction.

To answer the question of this post, one must first define... what is a 'Dress Chronograph'.

Well it is probably a watch that records time, and enhances ones 'Dress'

Given that 'Dressed' is a term for putting ones best foot forward... as in 'Dressed Up'....  it could be said that a 'Dress Chronograph' is a watch that compliments ones appearance in a situation of presenting ones 'Best image'. Image being an acceptable display of ones taste, in ones atire and dress, for a formal situation or special occasion.

However the emphasis is on 'Best image' as in 'Dressed Up' as in a situation where one would wear a 'Dress watch'.... as in his best boots, best suit, best watch.

Lets, get to the point.

If we were to take a situation where one was say.... sitting in the Casino in Monaco, and having just won 34,000 Euro for having put 1,000 Euro on number 13, when the white ball stopped in the number 13 slot.... and then, as one reached out with both hands to collect their chips, and the tuxedo jacket and shirt sleves pulled back to reveal a Chronograph.... then that might well be a case for the onlookers to have a chance of assesing if our chronograph was a 'Dress Chronogrph'.

If our stretched up sleve revealed a Breitling Chronomatic, stainless steel Chronogrph with a rose gold diamond bezel, it would not be considered a 'Dress Chronograph'

Of course if the beautiful 28 year old princess sitting beside you commented,  'That is a nice chronograph' ... then you might be forgiven for thinking that you are wearing a 'Dress Chronograph'

But that is unlikly to happen.... unless her father is the major shareholder in Breitling.

However to answer this question seriously, I think a Gold Rolex Daytona, or a Chronoswiss Opus, might just grab a second glance from the beautiful 28 year old princess.

On the more expensive Rolex, she would possibly look, say nothing, make a judgment on your 'Dress', and think this guy is well 'Dressed'.

But... Hey... everybody here wears a Rolex.

On the less expensive Chronoswiss Opus, the beautiful 28 year old princess might look, think, that has a soft elegant look, he must be a gentle person....  and she might also speak, even to possibly just say... 'That is an intriguing  and interesting watch...... Is it a chronograph?'

Of course, if you answered her, than it might well prove that you have put your best foot forward..... and won the night...... but we would never know, because a well dressed person would be a gentleman... and a gentleman would never tell.

On the Blancpain Villeret Monopoussoir, I would think she might well say ' Why is this georgeous guy wearing a Chockloate Watch with a tuxedo .... unless of course you were wearing a chokloate tuxedo... in which case she might think how cool is this guy wearing a chockloate watch to match his chokloate tuxedo....... BUT I DO NOT THINK SHE WOULD THINK THIS.

Alternativly, she might think, why is this goose wearing a chockloate tuxedo...... and he even has a chockloate watch to match.

Well,  I have never seen a chockloate tuxedo in Monaco... or anywhere else.

So, despite all this confusion about what the 28 year old princess might think... or what Blancpain might think is 'Dress'....... I personally would say;

 'Yes....  there is,  and are... such things as......  Dress Chronographs'

I attach a couple of internationally recognised chronographs that I can reccomend.  I can even guarantee that they will make you socially acceptable in any 'Dress Joint'.

Having said that, I think the Blancpain is a very nice Chronograph, but as a 'Dress Chronograph', while it is subtle and elegant and very beautiful, I think it is more suited to the aft deck of the yacht in the Mediteranian for a sunday afternoon cruise .... for I have never seen a watch with a chockolate dial that would make 'Dress watch' .... and that includes some very off Patek Phillipe and even Rolex brown dialed watches.

In fact in most situations.... chockolate dials, brown suits, or brown cloths are looked upon as informal or casual wear.... and in most formal or dress situations, if you arrive in chockolate or brown, you will  only draw comments that you, the wearer, have very bad taste.

As I said in the begining... I love the elegance of this watch... but I do not think of it as a 'Dress chronograph'

Put a white, black, silver or even pearl dial on it..... and it might not be such an embarrasment for you if you wear it as a dress watch.

In simple terms.... If Blancpain want this watch to succede as a dress chronograph....they need to loose the chockloate dial.

For as it is it is neither your finger or your toe..... it is something inbetweem.

Ma Ma ...... Who Who.

Kindest regards,

Jack

P.S. The Rolex in this photo has a jet black dial... it is only the photograph that has a chockolate tinge and even that slight tinge of chockolate destroys the formality of this watch.

So probably this version (here as a split-seconds chrono) would will the requirements of a dress watch much better (unfortunately its only sold in the Apotheosis Temporis set ;-():



I would also associate the Havana Brown dial (Blancpain's designation) more with leisure than with formal attire. Particularly if you think in combination with other Epicurean delights (e.g. cigars, whisky, wine) there are quite a few lustrous Blancpains with suitable and well palatable dials available.

The arch-example of such a watch would be the Ref 4277, an automatic Perpetual Calendar with GMT function (as an afterthought...) and the characteristic correctors under the lugs. This watch shows the excellence of Blancpain's dial work in an exemplary fashion. It came in a precious set with a cigar cutter designed like a vintage watchmaker's tool. The movement finishing is quite unique as well - the perfect piece of the connoisseur not only of watches. I'll leave you with a few pics:













Best,
Magnus

Thanks, Magnus.  The limited edition GMT Perpetual is a stunning watch, which long ago was sold out.  Your photos of the piece are terrific!

I guess I don't have a color hang up on what is or is not dress.  Probably would not wear a brown watch with a tux, but would have no hesitation with a suit.  Same goes for shoes, I consider a nicely made pair of brown shoes to be perfectly fine with a gray suit.  So I guess my main criteria for a dress watch is that it be elegant, refined and understated.  But hey, that's just me. 

Jeff

Hi Magnus,

I agree entirely.

Photo No. 1 is a very elegant dress chronograph..... and a very nice 'dress watch' that would compliment any formal situation.

Very clean, very crisp, very beautiful and very classic.

Kindest regards,

Jack