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Jaeger-LeCoultre

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JLC SIHH 2014: Master Grande Tradition à Quantième Perpetuel 8 Days Skeleton.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-00:09

Here is a Watch I had to hide till now, which was present at the SIHH 2014, the Master Grande Tradition à Quantième Perpetuel 8 Days Skeleton. ( MGT QP 8 Days Skeleton ).

This Watch has been announced as a Tribute to the Grande Complication Pocket Watch from 1928, which is true, and not true.

True, because the skeleton movement with the silver grained subdials suggests, indeed, the aesthetics of the Grande Complication Pocket Watch:

 

 

The work on the movement, the addition of blue enamel surrounding the dial and the case back is certainly another undisputable glimpse to the Pocket Watch.

These are the only common points to the MGT QP 8 Days Skeleton and the Pocket Watch, as:

- The movement of the MGT QP is highly decorated by the Master Engravers of the Manufacture.

- The MGT is NOT a Grande Complication, as we have to keep in mind that the masterpiece from 1928 was a Minute Repeater, a Chronograph and a Perpetual Calendar.

Some roots can be also found in the modern production.

Let's not forget that the Cal 876, housed in the MGT QP, saw the light in 2004, in this Watch, the Master 8 Days Perpetual Antoine Lecoultre:


Another Watch has to be mentionned, the Master 8 Days Perpetual... Skeleton, unveiled in 2007.


 

The 8 Days Perpetual Skeleton is very interesting, when we think about the new MGT QP 8 Days Skeleton.

The MGT is also a skeleton, but it plays a more classic interpretation, and, should I say, in a more demanding decoration.

Indeed, here, it is not a simple skeleton, it is a refined one, with the work of the Master Engraver using burins to meticulously achieve the decoration of the movement.

And, if it was not enough, this Watch goes into the experimented hands of the Master Enameller.

We have a Grand Feu Champlevé enamel: The enamel is delicately applied, then fired at the heat of 800 / 820 Degrees, before being polished with diamond powder.

I have been told that  only the enamel work takes... 2 days, on this MGT.


A very nice détails, the hands, which are all heated blue, and the leaf shaped hours and minutes.

Of course, the most spectacular part of the  MGT is the dial, and the surrounding blue enamel.

But I must say that the case is not lacking interest.

We are far from the first MGT cases, launched in 2009 ( Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar and the Minute Repeater ), which were already a nice improvement when compared to the Master Case, with an evolution in elegance.

Have a look at the lugs, at the volume of the case, JLC is working better and better on this part of the Watch.

 

The case back is not bad, either... Revealing a spectacular view on the Cal 876, mounted in the Complications Horlogères workshop.

 

The case is in white gold, and is 42 mm big.

Let's recall that this movement is made of 260 parts, 37 jewels and beats at the pace of 28800 alternances per hour. Of course, it is a 8 days power reserve movement, and the perpetual calendar is complete: Day, date, month, year  moonphase.

Some personal thoughts, now:

This is a superbly executed piece, made, realized with a lot of care.

I love a lot the case, and if I had the choice, I would go for the previous skeleton dial, the one we find in the Master 8 Days Perpetual Skeleton from 2007, but housed in the sublime case of the MGT, because I prefer modern skeleton to this more traditional execution.

But, on another side, the choice of the enamel surroundings would not be as appealing nor coherent on a modern skeleton, so it is really a matter of taste.

One regret: the choice to make it in a limited edition of 200 pièces: Given the level of finish and care of this Watch, I would rather see a much smaller production, more... exclusive. Better, a  very limited production, rather than a limited edition.

Looking forward to read your comments and thoughts,


Best.

Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-03 00:23:40 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-05 02:23:31

re: QP 8 day skeleton

 
 By: DRMW : March 3rd, 2014-00:21
The open dial is beautiful but I think the blue enamel borders are too wide especially on a flat surface.  I wonder if it is a bit better in person?

-MW

Actually, I think it is very coherent, in this watch.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:36

Look at the Pocket Watch I posted. It is even larger, it doesn't look too large.

Thanks for your thoughts, Ming.

Best,

Nicolas

A few thoughts on this beautiful watch...

 
 By: moc : March 3rd, 2014-02:19
First of all,the inspiration,even if far away from the original pocket watch,is clear.

I like this new 8daysQP for several reasons:

1)THE CASE,well the MGT case is superior to the master case I think,in many respects,most of all its proportions.
This is the first time that the MGT case is used in a"human size"watch,hence we can appreciate it better than its previous applications that were too bulky and thick to accommodate super complicated movements.
I hope JLC will use this case more and more in the future.

2)THE SKELETONISATION……Even if I am not fan of baroque skeleton work,I must admit that there are cases in which its appropriate (think about the AP perp skeleton,a baroque finish in such a modern case).In this case it is appropriate and it s so coherent with the watch.

I loved the Master 8days Perp Sq ,I almost got one in rose gold,so I know this caliber very well,I appreciate this new 8Days Qp so much,I love it s legibility compared to the old master 8daysQP,its elegance and beauty.I can see myself chasing this beauty in the future indeed,it has a lot of romanticism and charm.

The enamel ring adds so much allure to an already fantastic watch.Are you sure the technique is champeleve'?I believe the segment front and back are guilllochet and then enameled,a technique called"flinque'"but I might be wrong.Same technique of that Reverso with blue dial.


The bad points are 2,JLC as usual watering down their product,makes me really angry…..this is a watch that ,if you want to create exclusivity,should be produced in 50 to 100 pieces no more(I think even 100 is too much).
What will happen is that it will not create exclusivity as you will find this piece very easily in the next few years,and at a very convenient price if you ask me,which is not bad for us collectors,but definitely It won't be so…exclusive.

Second point:I think a platinum case would have suited this watch much more….but JLC is not using platinum as they used to do,which is a shame.

MO

Agreed on all points.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:40

This is the kind of Watch which would better deserve:

1/ A limited ( and short ) production.

2/ A limited and shorter edition. 50 pièces, or 75 would have been better. It is an exclusive piece, which needs some... Exclusivity. JLC HAS to think it this way!

For the rest of your observations, I can't agree more.

Even a non skeleton fan can admire it.

Best,

Nicolas

So Nico...

 
 By: moc : March 3rd, 2014-10:42
Is the enamel champeleve or flinque' technique?

Mo

I wil ask for a confirmation. They said Champlevé. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-11:51
No message body

JLC's most beautiful perpetual ever ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 3rd, 2014-02:51

... in my eyes, at least. And due to the much better legibility, also lightyears ahead of the 2007 skeleton.


Marcus

I can only concur with Dr. Hanke

 
 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : March 3rd, 2014-05:01
Best
Damjan

Thanks for looking, Damjan!. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:44
No message body

It all depends if you are a bigger fan of modern or classic skeletons...

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:44

I must admit I am more fan of modern expressions of Skeletons.

But I can also admire that more classic version.

And a big pro, on this one, is the case, much more exciting than the previous " Master ".

Best,

Nicolas

I have so much love for this piece that I don't usually have for...

 
 By: Ruckdee : March 3rd, 2014-04:35
... the more expensive JLC models (that is to say, beyond my price level).

There is hardly a thing I would change on this watch if given the opportunity to. The only way to further improve the aesthetics, in my small opinion, is to remove the white logo screening on the crystal and find a way instead to put the short "JL" logo in metal somewhere on the blue enamel part near 12 o'clock. That may be a nice touch but of course personal taste which may not be found agreeable by the target customers.

Still, a stunning piece. You must still remember my senseless screaming the day you first posted this watch.

Ruckdee

And the in the real experience speaks louder, my friend.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:47

I never think  " affordability "... But  Pleasure, and this one gives a lot!

Now, I will have to focus on your observation about the white logo.

Will come back to you, on that matter.

Best!

Nicolas

I agree with Marcus....

 
 By: watchme : March 3rd, 2014-05:54

I DO think this is the best QP Skeleton JLC has EVER done! I like everything, including the blue enamel border (which helps it attain the extra 2mm over the non-skeletonized 40mm version).

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE JLC's back of this watch, choosing to make the bridges a piece of artwork, rather than taking away every last bit of the non-essential.

As a side note: I'm DEEPLY disappointed in the demise of the 87X Reversos, as I like an 8-day movement, as well as some new Master Controls with the 8-day. I was hoping for an 8-day Master Calendar of some sort.

-Dean

The blue enamel ring is very smart.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-09:49

It helps to compensate the difference of size between the movement and the bigger case... Very well done.

As for the 8 Days movements, like you I am a big fan. A pity there are no recent Reversos with this movement, but you can also hunt an older one!

Best,

Nicolas

I like it very much, the blue rings reminds me of another skeleton, PP [nt]

 
 By: doubleup : March 3rd, 2014-10:53
No message body

Thanks for looking. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-11:53
No message body

Are you talking about this one?

 
 By: foversta : March 3rd, 2014-12:54





Fx

This one here.

 
 By: doubleup : March 3rd, 2014-13:00





yes, of course due to the indexes on the peripheral blue. I was hesitating with it... [nt]

 
 By: foversta : March 3rd, 2014-13:20
No message body

about the movement...

 
 By: didwlgh : March 3rd, 2014-11:05

Nicolas,

Thank you as always for the detailed report & the photos.

Have a question as to the movement - both are written as Cal 876 SQ - are they both exactly identical top each other?

Maybe I got this wrong, but my recollection was that the sapphire discs would move on the "modern" version, whereas it looks like in the enamel version, the hands will be moving (which I assume is actually easier than moveing the sapphire discs, especially on the leap year days when everything should move together). Would love your insight regarding the movement aspect.

 

Tim

Same movement than the normal 876 and the former skeleton.

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-12:40

This one is just more  finished.

Best, Tim and thanks for your feedback!


Nicolas

thank you

 
 By: didwlgh : March 3rd, 2014-12:47
for the response. then just to clarify, then even in the former "modern" skeleton version, sapphhire discs stay still and hands jump instead for all subdials?

No, the sapphire discs turn. But same movement. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-13:36
No message body

ic

 
 By: didwlgh : March 3rd, 2014-13:40
so a slight variation then, even though they share the same Cal #. cheers to JLC for making all those heavy discs turn at the same time!

You got it. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-13:48
No message body

A superb watch, maybe my fav JLC of the year.

 
 By: foversta : March 3rd, 2014-12:50
Thanks for the detailed presentation, I will come back with a  review later.

In the meantime, here are two wristshots:









Fx

Well, I still didn't introduce my favourite... ;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-13:37
No message body

It is a stunning watch!

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : March 3rd, 2014-13:42

But, between you and me - I do prefer the PW...

smile

Thank you for the report, my friend.


Best

Blomman

Blomman, if you find the pocket watch, the very same one...

 
 By: amanico : March 3rd, 2014-13:49

You'd better play the lottery the very same day!

wink

Best, my friend.

Nicolas

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