Jaeger-LeCoultre

It existed with a perpetual calendar, or without.

Best, Michael.

Nicolas. This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-02-14 21:21:59

Such a perfect dial and case!

of the brand. For me, what captivates "the best of the best" in JLC would come down to a few pieces, since JLC is one of the deepest brands in the industry (read: breadth of product offering). Here are a few of what I, personally, consider the best AND THE ESSENCE of JLC:

1. Grande GMT (although technically discontinued). Why? The 8-day movement (runs 9.25 days) is based on the JLC 124, created in 1931 and sold to Patek-Philippe. In the Grande GMT, you get 2 watches for the price of one, a large date that is the off-spring of the grande-date JLC developed in 1992, but was forced by Gunther Blumlein to give exclusively to A. Lange & Sohne for 10 years, and 11 moving hands/discs on one watch and it STILL doesn't look cluttered. I think it's one of the best values in the entire watch universe.

2. Master Control Reserve de Marche. Why? JLC has been using this movement (and it's variants) since the 1980's. In the old "Gentilhomme" with hobnail sides to it's bezel (the JLC Calatrava), it was pretty, but stark, with the black hands on white dial with black Roman numerals. When the Master Control series debuted in 1992, the Reserve de Marche found its way into the family by '94. Additionally, JLC sells the movement to VC (who charges 50% more for it), and has sold it (look back about 7 years) to AP, who took off the rotor and made it a hand-wound, flipped the movement's complication backwards - so that the power reserve was at 2 o'clock and the date at 10 o'clock. Though it's not made at the moment (I'm hoping for a boutique edition), the black dial on the steel bracelet is as beautiful as the old PP Neptune model with the power reserve, moonphase and date. The modern silver dial RdM on a Navy strap is KILLER!

3. Atmos Transparent with month & moonphase. Why? Invented by Leon Reutters and perfected by JLC, the Atmos has been "the official gift of the Swiss confederation" since 1938. The transparent version allows you to see the movement, which historically was hidden from view inside the brass cover. With all the talk by AL&S of precision moonphases (one day variation every 1,058 years in the new TerraLuna, the Atmos Transparent is off one day every 3,128 years(!!!) and doesn't need any winding! It quietly (very quietly) ticks off the minutes, hours, months and moonphases until...well, until it needs a cleaning, which can be every 25 years or sometimes more.

Other pieces I would consider that reveal the essence of "modern" JLC would be:

4. Compressor Geographic. Why?Even though this model is discontinued, the Compressor System is the best water-proofing system I have personally seen and played with in the industry. It's simple, ultra-efficient, and give each Compressor a visual identity - with the wing-nuts. The Geographic complication, which has been considered a "Masterpiece" in the industry since it's initial debut in 1989, in this iteration uses an AM/PM indicator, instead of the Day/Night indicator, dispenses with the power reserve, and looks beefy. On the bracelet, it is AWESOME(!!!) with the micro-adjustable clasp.

5. DuoMeter Quantieme Lunair. Why?: The Dual-Wing movements aren't new to watch-making, but in wristwatches, they've only been dabbled in up to this point. The level of finish on the DuoMeter movements rivals anything put out by PP or AL&S, and the dial layout is gorgeous. With the open apertures (in the 42mm version), it's just plain SEXY! (Kind of like negligee vs naked when you look at the back of a movement. It just tantalizes you with what's under the dress.)

This is just one man's opinion, but one who has been following and loving JLC for 20 years.

-Dean

The interesting and exciting thing with JLC is that we can find so many opportune sélections!

For example, the Minute Repeater and this smart system of welded gongs...

Or The Master Ultra Thins.

Or The Amvox, especially the II.

And so on...

Best,

Nicolas

the only challenge I see with JLC is that I LIKE EVERYTHING THEY DO (pretty much). It's kind of like trying to capture the main essence of a rainbow by choosing one color. How do you do that?

-Dean

But if I had to choose only one family, I would go for the Duometre Line.

Considering that we are far from having seen all...

Best, Sunny Brother.

Nicolas

The Reserve de Marche is a terrific model, and I agree with you.

And this could be represented as a rectangular case for the former and a round one for the latter.

Take your pick from any of the Reversos and you would have easily captured the essence of JLC's past.

Take your pick from any of the Duometres and you would get a strong feel for where they want to take you.

I would probably get a Rouge and a black dialed Lunaire and be happy for quite sometime

Spot on it seems.

But just want to say "thank you" for starting it, MichaelC. All responses and discussions are a great read.

Best regards,
Ruckdee

I'll take little credit for starting it; it is really the well thought out and sincere replies that make it.

Not an easy question to answer, Michael...

The short answer I would say is that you need minimum three watches to cover the basics.

1) Reverso, personally I would either go very simple or very complex. Reverso Rouge or Blue as a simple (any single or duo face Reverso will do). If you want to go complex I would aim for the RG Minute Repeater or Retrograph Chrono.

2) Alarm, even if the TT divers are much more popular, to find the essence of the Memovox, I would go for the modern Master Memovox or Memovox International. They hold the classic DNA.

3) Duometre, the Duometre represent the full skill and knowlage of the brand today (any of the Duo's will do, personally I would go for the chrono). (If olny classic choosen on 1) and 2) there is an option to go for a sports watch here, the Extreme Lab I would be my choice).

Please don't ask me to elaborate this here, this is a very long conversation over drinks!

Funny thing is that depending on when you ask this question, the answer would vary.

Example, if you would have asked this question before 2011, I guess many would not have included a simple Reverso.

If before the birth of the Duometre, no one would include a chrono...

If you would have asked the Q? arround 2000, very few would have included Polaris or DSA.

In the 70's nobody would have included the Reverso!

Food for thoughts.... What is the essence of a brand...? Is it what the brand wants to imply for the moment? Or is it what survived many years after?

Best

Blomman

ATMOS is the real essence: innovative, unparalleled, tranquility, aesthetic, perfection.

Modern (recent) essence: Duometre. Stands for everything JLC is and was: innovation in watch making. JLC always was 'the watchmaker's watch' (supplying the big 3 for decades) and really more an 'engine (ebauche) powerhouse' than watch brand.

 

 

Having read through this thread it's very interesting...