Comments:
The dial derives its great appeal through a combination of organic skeletonisation...
... and stringent concentric and radial guillochage:
Flipping it over we discover the automatic movement. No, this is not an ETA, this is a Concepto movement:
... top time indication...
Even the lugs are covered all around:
Overall, the watch really sparkles with light:
The movement is a 72-hour handwound in-house movement with quite an architectural plate design:
As you really can imagine all these detail are a stage for a dramatic and enthralling light-show:
New are both design and materials. The dial has been simplified and now has less layers and different elements. The lower part has been closed and of course the overall colour scheme has shifted towards colder paintings. Furthermore, instead of a a red gold case the new one comes in light titanium which should make for a significant weight reduction (this watch has a 46mm diameter).
The following image makes it clear that the chronograph is not a simple one...
Its a split-seconds one which makes a look at the back of the watch even more tempting - more further down! In addition to the rattrapante seconds it counts up to 30 min:
The watch naturally has a certain thickness but this is well balanced in overall design:
The crown carries the split-seconds pusher. Pushers and crown are made in white gold.
The movement - excellently finished Concepto movement with in-house modification (covered with snow ;-)).
Wearing the watch is an interesting experience - only then it reveals its personality!
The inclusion of the 'beard' both sides of the moonphase proves that somebody has a deep understanding of design and art...
It comes with a titanium folding clasp which we did not find very comfortable, though:
Geneva 2013: DeWitt
From the teaser we posted some time ago, one could see that still today quite a few people are familiar with De Witt and their collection - only.
One could say De Witt is still something like a "sleeper", but one with strong DNA and passion for the detail. A passion for mechanics (especially vintage
automotive), crafts (in general) which ask for outstanding skills and of course Art Déco. If you ever had the pleasure to meet Mr. De Witt in person
you probably can imagine that one of the biggest challenges for the employees is not to be overwhelmed by his (almost) unlimited passion and creativity.
For the company it is probably a strength and a weakness at the same time, but for all those who love the De Witt style it is a feast.
Now let´s have a look at a selection (chosen by Magnus & Oliver) from the collection 2013.
One could say De Witt is still something like a "sleeper", but one with strong DNA and passion for the detail. A passion for mechanics (especially vintage
automotive), crafts (in general) which ask for outstanding skills and of course Art Déco. If you ever had the pleasure to meet Mr. De Witt in person
you probably can imagine that one of the biggest challenges for the employees is not to be overwhelmed by his (almost) unlimited passion and creativity.
For the company it is probably a strength and a weakness at the same time, but for all those who love the De Witt style it is a feast.
Now let´s have a look at a selection (chosen by Magnus & Oliver) from the collection 2013.
The Twenty-8-Eight Collection
DeWitt's Twenty-8-Eight Collection is the most elegant one created by the manufacture. Here, the mechanical motive of the imperial columns is less pronounced and instead leaves room for more architecturally-inspired Art Deco elements, American Art Deco specifically.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-03-23 02:28:48
BTW, did you know where the unwieldy name of this collection comes from? It is because Mr de Witt conceived and sketched out the collection for the first time one August 28...
This year we did not see a new watch or a new movement but refined new dials for two watches:
First, we take a look at the impressive Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon
The new dials of the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon have a two part design. On the upper part, the two vertical appliques are inspired by a very masculine
and imposing Art Deco construction with a futurist touch. The lower part of the dial opens onto a beautiful large circular-grained aperture which frames
the heart of the movement displaying the visible beating of the tourbillon.
Under natural light you are in for quite a fireworks:
DeWitt included its in-house tourbillon movement DW8028 is a rather classic construction and relies on tried and tested ancestral technical parameters: 18,000 Vph and 72 hours of power reserve. A small plaque bearing the signature of the master watchmaker is to be found on the back of the watch, on the barrel bridge:
The watch overall exudes a cool and admirably arrogant impression. This sounds like a critique but in fact this is a great praise. It also works well with different attires:
The second watch that got new clothes was the Automatic. It was dressed in warm and tasty chocolate colours.
Please take another look at the dial work in the picture above. DeWitt spent a significant time in design and execution, and is able to produce its dials in-house from the brass blank to the final dial, covering guillochage, painting/surface treatments, printing, applying the indices etc. And it shows, just admire the excellent guillochage!
The case is the typical Twenty-8-Eigth Collection in red gold.
Its alternating polished columns over a matte case band give a strong contrast:
One the back you see a highly reworked ETA 2890 movement...
... with an in-house rotor featuring the company's WW logo:
It is one of the most reticent way to wear a DeWitt watch.
First, we take a look at the impressive Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon
The new dials of the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon have a two part design. On the upper part, the two vertical appliques are inspired by a very masculine
and imposing Art Deco construction with a futurist touch. The lower part of the dial opens onto a beautiful large circular-grained aperture which frames
the heart of the movement displaying the visible beating of the tourbillon.
The new colour we were shown was a glacier-coloured PVD coating entirely developed in-house (yes, DW employs a chemical wizard...):
Under natural light you are in for quite a fireworks:
As you can see, a similar effect is also visible from the sides. Note how much finer (and large in quantity) the columns are.
Turning the watch slowly over might well rise your blood pressure and your heart beat:
DeWitt included its in-house tourbillon movement DW8028 is a rather classic construction and relies on tried and tested ancestral technical parameters: 18,000 Vph and 72 hours of power reserve. A small plaque bearing the signature of the master watchmaker is to be found on the back of the watch, on the barrel bridge:
The watch overall exudes a cool and admirably arrogant impression. This sounds like a critique but in fact this is a great praise. It also works well with different attires:
The second watch that got new clothes was the Automatic. It was dressed in warm and tasty chocolate colours.
Milk chocolate on the outer, intensive dark chocolate on the inner dial perimeter:
Please take another look at the dial work in the picture above. DeWitt spent a significant time in design and execution, and is able to produce its dials in-house from the brass blank to the final dial, covering guillochage, painting/surface treatments, printing, applying the indices etc. And it shows, just admire the excellent guillochage!
Naturally, such a three-dimensional structure changes appearance depending on light:
The case is the typical Twenty-8-Eigth Collection in red gold.
Its alternating polished columns over a matte case band give a strong contrast:
One the back you see a highly reworked ETA 2890 movement...
... with an in-house rotor featuring the company's WW logo:
It is one of the most reticent way to wear a DeWitt watch.
The 28's movement is
surprisingly unremarkable, no?
But I sort of like the Tourb, in its over the top deWitt-ness.
The "basic" movement shown ...
is probably not the (key) reason to buy the watch, but also it wouldn´t keep me away if I am in the market for a watch in that very special style.
Oliver
Oliver
The Academia Collection
Also, the Academia collection received updates in dials and materials.
Academia Mirabilis
This watch with its partly open-worked dial has already been presented last year (more on its gestation here ) but now comes in additional and more contrasty colour versions. We were shown the chocolate one (well, a second 'sweet' novelty at DW this year)...
“The Academia Mirabilis reveals a part of its secrets at the end of the day when the noise and stress give way to silence and peace. Like a night flower that opens at dusk, the subtly designed open-work between 7 and 12 draws the eye into the heart of this watch. The delicacy of the gears, the finely sanded surface of the bottom plate and the hand-finished details all evoke a bed of vibrant, fragile flowers.” (Press Kit 2012)
It has a very philosophical approach to watch design. Precisely telling the time when it is needed, revealing its vivid (-> escapement window!) and more relaxed facets in respect to chronometry once the work day has come to a close:
The dial derives its great appeal through a combination of organic skeletonisation...
... and stringent concentric and radial guillochage:
The sunray stripes extend to the case design as they define the width of the columns. What a personality!
Flipping it over we discover the automatic movement. No, this is not an ETA, this is a Concepto movement:
Let's see some action! It takes a couple of wristshots to exemplify how the changes in the dial - towards a more pronounced contrast - benefitted the watch:
The rubber strap btw is new as well and is not only comfortable but also tasty: smells nicely of vanilla!
The rubber strap btw is new as well and is not only comfortable but also tasty: smells nicely of vanilla!
Academia Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie
The next one is everything but not boring, for sure. It is clearly not made for Mr. & Mrs. Smith as it is bold and colourfull. But the cocktail out of interesting complication, awesome dial, selected gemstones and pure DeWitt DNA is very well crafted and balanced - for what it is. The final product is just marvellous and even when we don´t have that many occasions to wear it, we definetely would love to wear it from time to time - believe it or not 
The watch shows a clearly structured dial...
... top time indication...
... and bottom time regulation: the force constante (left) and the flying tourbillon (right) mechanisms, respectively:
The guillochage - like the overall dial - is of exquisite quality and is done entirely in-house. This is a prerequisite for the creativity that Mr de Witt demonstrates with his creations. Depending on the incidence of light the dial shows horizontal and vertical double-W structures:
The case work and particularly the gem-setting are of equally exquisite design and execution. It really pays off to delve deep into the fantastic details:
The case band is entirely set with baguettes which here replace the distinctive columns.
Even the lugs are covered all around:
... as well as the clasp:
... and the crown of course. Note the alternating baguettes and classical stones with each rim:
Overall, the watch really sparkles with light:
The movement is a 72-hour handwound in-house movement with quite an architectural plate design:
As you really can imagine all these detail are a stage for a dramatic and enthralling light-show:
Academia Tourbillon Impérial
This complicated watch follows Mr de Witt’s romantic idea of placing the passing of time side by side to the counting, the one is a calendar with moonphase and out of reach and not to be influenced; the other, a split-seconds chronograph, being at your mercy and only waiting to be suspended at will. Above all reigns a wonderful tourbillon.
The watch was presented at last year's Basel show and now is finally ready for the market. It underwent quite some changes since then:
2012:
2013:
New are both design and materials. The dial has been simplified and now has less layers and different elements. The lower part has been closed and of course the overall colour scheme has shifted towards colder paintings. Furthermore, instead of a a red gold case the new one comes in light titanium which should make for a significant weight reduction (this watch has a 46mm diameter).
The tourbillon with its sapphire front 'bridge' tricks you into thinking it was a flying one, but it is not. The well-dimensioned ruby bearing is the strongest hint:
The following image makes it clear that the chronograph is not a simple one...
Its a split-seconds one which makes a look at the back of the watch even more tempting - more further down! In addition to the rattrapante seconds it counts up to 30 min:
The lower part is reserved for a moonphase cum date indication.
Different to most moonphases on the market the subdial in this one gives the impression of a landscape upon which the moon is shining:
The watch naturally has a certain thickness but this is well balanced in overall design:
The crown carries the split-seconds pusher. Pushers and crown are made in white gold.
The movement - excellently finished Concepto movement with in-house modification (covered with snow ;-)).
Wearing the watch is an interesting experience - only then it reveals its personality!
The inclusion of the 'beard' both sides of the moonphase proves that somebody has a deep understanding of design and art...
It comes with a titanium folding clasp which we did not find very comfortable, though:
I like a lot the Mirabilis.
Uusually, I'm not a great fan of open dials but this time, I think that the whole design works pretty well.
Thanks a lot for these pictures and for the comprehensive report!
Fx
Thanks a lot for these pictures and for the comprehensive report!
Fx
The New Academia Collection: Celebrating 10 years of DeWitt!
In 2013 DeWitt celebrates its first 10 years of existence with a new collection, the New Academia. All of them are limited to 200 pieces.
The integration of the date and the time zone function are follow the Art Deco elements first seen in the Twenty-8-Eight collection:
Naturally DeWitt had to cut some corners in order to reduce costs, and they made a - in our opinion - sensible choice: They opted for an ETA 2890 base movement (which they use in other collections as well) and applied only a little value addition (the logo on the rotor). Other collection feature more elaborated finishings.
You may have noticed that the New Academia comes with a custom rubber strap which smells nicely like vanilla (when did we sense this last time? Sweet memories!). But there is another option: a steel bracelet! We were presented this on the second model, the Grande Date:
Please note that this bracelet is still in prototype stage but we already liked how the central row is sculptured to play with light (see also wristshots below). Clearly Mr de Witt's influence we guess...
Again we appreciate a very nicely designed sunray dial. It is made in-house btw.
The Grand Date display resides at 12 o'clock. Both disks appear to be on the same level:
The back is similar to the Hora Mundi:
It is certainly a more relaxed watch to wear, but then again it's conception went in a different direction, not that much geared towards the jet-set frenzy but more towards a young and active clientele:
We would like to finish with a close view on the bracelet and its organic design. Its a counterpoint to the sharp case construction and really floats. So does the light it captures:
Both watches can be had with the steel bracelet, but are also available on a rubber strap.
For the first time the manufacture offers a stainless steel watch. This considerably lowers the entry point for DeWitt (now 10.000CHF) and thus may well attract a new clientele for the company. Right from the start DeWitt offers two models, the Hora Mundi (with a second time zone display) and the Grande Date.
Let's take a look at the Hora Mundi first:
The watch is fashioned in generous but very wearable 43mm steel and features of course the immediately recognisable DeWitt characteristics: The beautifully dial with a hand-guilloched sunray pattern:
The integration of the date and the time zone function are follow the Art Deco elements first seen in the Twenty-8-Eight collection:
A second typical characteristic are the imperial columns which optically integrate bezel and case band. The third one is the crown that seems to be designed by either Boeing or Airbus:
Naturally DeWitt had to cut some corners in order to reduce costs, and they made a - in our opinion - sensible choice: They opted for an ETA 2890 base movement (which they use in other collections as well) and applied only a little value addition (the logo on the rotor). Other collection feature more elaborated finishings.
The watch makes a surprisingly strong impression on the wrist wiht some fascinating play with light:
You may have noticed that the New Academia comes with a custom rubber strap which smells nicely like vanilla (when did we sense this last time? Sweet memories!). But there is another option: a steel bracelet! We were presented this on the second model, the Grande Date:
Please note that this bracelet is still in prototype stage but we already liked how the central row is sculptured to play with light (see also wristshots below). Clearly Mr de Witt's influence we guess...
Again we appreciate a very nicely designed sunray dial. It is made in-house btw.
The Grand Date display resides at 12 o'clock. Both disks appear to be on the same level:
The back is similar to the Hora Mundi:
It is certainly a more relaxed watch to wear, but then again it's conception went in a different direction, not that much geared towards the jet-set frenzy but more towards a young and active clientele:
We would like to finish with a close view on the bracelet and its organic design. Its a counterpoint to the sharp case construction and really floats. So does the light it captures:
Both watches can be had with the steel bracelet, but are also available on a rubber strap.
Hora Mundi
Nice watch but I find the second timezone window a bit confusing.
Maybe I have to see it in the metal to check this point.
Thanks a lot!
Fx
Maybe I have to see it in the metal to check this point.
Thanks a lot!
Fx
Our Conclusion
DeWitt has a remarkably concise collection with one very present denominator: the use of 'imperial columns' as the
dominating design element. The differences between the collection - the Concept Watches not included! - are subtle.
Thus the question arises whether the division into separate collections makes sense at all.
For me a highlight was the diamond-studded Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie - yes, this one! Here the manufacture demonstrates what it takes to transform the word 'audacity' into a real object. For me its just such a well-done implementation of an extraordinary watch that trickles many senses but does not fail in any aspect. The Mirabilis just has grown stronger with the new stark dial. As for the New Academia I will have to let it sink a bit, I cannot make my personal judgement on this collection now. For me its lacks still a bit of decisive elements to make is a compelling buy. But then again these were prototypes.
dominating design element. The differences between the collection - the Concept Watches not included! - are subtle.
Thus the question arises whether the division into separate collections makes sense at all.
In short - we this yes it does! Here we try to explain this:
The Twenty-8-Eight Collection
Here the columns are more restrained and overall the watches emphasise plane above strong vertical elements.
This leaves room for tiny details for which the new Tourbillon is an excellent example. Despite all its complexity the
watch does not shout, and even in its unusual colour it is very wearable.
This leaves room for tiny details for which the new Tourbillon is an excellent example. Despite all its complexity the
watch does not shout, and even in its unusual colour it is very wearable.
In a similar vein lies the Automatic . It is a very playful watch on the second - closer - view and exhibits refinement in detail
(the gorgeous guilloche dial!) that is not importunate. Just like bespoke suit and shoes are not for the fashion addict but
more for the connoisseur.
(the gorgeous guilloche dial!) that is not importunate. Just like bespoke suit and shoes are not for the fashion addict but
more for the connoisseur.
The Academia Collection:
A very graphic, intensely strong collection. Contrasts are executed in colour, dimension and surface composition. Take
for example the Mirabilis . The watch lives of stark contrasts which are well embedded in a concise concept. It makes for
a highly visible presence. The watch is certainly not eligible for business purposes. It is a watch for the after-hours, when
pleasure and indulgence abound.
for example the Mirabilis . The watch lives of stark contrasts which are well embedded in a concise concept. It makes for
a highly visible presence. The watch is certainly not eligible for business purposes. It is a watch for the after-hours, when
pleasure and indulgence abound.
The Academia collection is well-suited for complicated watches, i.e. watches that are not shy of complexity. The feat
here is to achieve a well-designed balance. The Tourbillon Impérial is one example which unifies a strong dial,
multiple complications and a very technical case into a compelling timepiece. Not one element unduly dominates the
others. This makes the level of complexity more accessible (in an intellectual context) and certainly will extend the
pleasure derived from such a watch.
here is to achieve a well-designed balance. The Tourbillon Impérial is one example which unifies a strong dial,
multiple complications and a very technical case into a compelling timepiece. Not one element unduly dominates the
others. This makes the level of complexity more accessible (in an intellectual context) and certainly will extend the
pleasure derived from such a watch.
The collection also tolerates if very few very strong elements are mixed. The Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie is
a point in case. Diamonds, a complicated and open-worked escapement and masterful guillochage are composed into
a really amazing timepiece. As watch collectors/admirers we a quick to disapprove to jewellery pieces (often 'rightfully' so)
but this here is in a class of its own.
a point in case. Diamonds, a complicated and open-worked escapement and masterful guillochage are composed into
a really amazing timepiece. As watch collectors/admirers we a quick to disapprove to jewellery pieces (often 'rightfully' so)
but this here is in a class of its own.
The New Academia collection:
This collection is the great news this winter. It is aimed to open the manufacture to new customers. As such the price point
is lower an some accommodations had to be made (see the presentation). The two watches presented so far are 'light'
watches in the sense that they do not come with a heavy watchmaking 'ballast' but tick all the boxes which makes them true
'DeWitts'. This also makes them easy to appreciate and in turn these are the perfect pieces if one is bound to enjoy a vibrant
night in town.
is lower an some accommodations had to be made (see the presentation). The two watches presented so far are 'light'
watches in the sense that they do not come with a heavy watchmaking 'ballast' but tick all the boxes which makes them true
'DeWitts'. This also makes them easy to appreciate and in turn these are the perfect pieces if one is bound to enjoy a vibrant
night in town.
Finally our individual and personal opinions:
Oliver - "Passion and cordiality is probably their key/secret", that´s what came to my mind at our Basel visit in 2012. There have been some changes for De Witt recently, but passion and cordiality still seems to be strong. The collection we saw was consistent like never before and the strong DNA shown is a pleasure to look at. Congrats to Mr. De Witt and his team!
Magnus - as much as I like novel watches, complications, movements etc. I am really interested when it comes to small evolutions and enhancements. This is where a brand can really demonstrate its dedication to a collection and/or a specific watch. Without this I think no Patek Calatrava, no Rolex Submariner and no Omega Speedmaster would enjoy the status they enjoy these days. So, during SIHH I was treated royally by DeWitt.
Thank you both for the very detailed report.
The last time I had a comprehensive view of the De Witt collection was in December 2010. I think I need an update. I will try to see the current collection as soon as possible.
Thanks a lot for the great report!
Fx
Thanks a lot for the great report!
Fx
the collection exudes quality!
I am a huge fan of Art-Deco design and I have now fallen in love with the DeWitt collection.
Personal favourite is the constant force tourbillon, perhaps without the jewelling wouold be a sure fire winner.
I'm certainly interested in the Twenty-8-Eight collection, the art deco touches are a standout for me. Too often it seem watch manufacturers put the effort into the movement but not the case and dial, DeWitt seems to have covered all bases here with every surface exuding attention to detail and quality.
How is the movement finishing up close on the non-eta movements?