Horological Meandering

In the past some of the most compelling limited edition and piece unique watches were made for Japan. Amongst other models Patek Philippe made several Calatrava watches for Japan that I know of, and probably more than I am unaware of. IWC too has done numerous limited editions for Japan, two of the most notable being the Portuguese rattrapante chronograph with a display back and the Doppelchronograph with white dial.

 

IWC Japan editions

Photo courtesy Jester

 

That was the result of Japan once being the most important watch market in the world, though it has since been eclipsed by other markets in the primary market. China is now the biggest destination for Swiss watch (the market for vintage watches is another story). Nevertheless Japan is still a vital market for many brands – it remains large even if growth is negligible – and several noteworthy Japan-only limited editions are still unveiled each year.

 

Sinn for instance last year unveiled a 556 styled after the 1950s RAF pilots watches. This is the sort of watch that military watch aficionados would love, but it is a limited edition of 50 pieces only available at Isetan stores in Japan.

 

 

 

Coincidentally, Isetan had another exclusive edition, a steel watch from Urban Jurgensen which had beautifully a crafted dial with blue steel hands. This is a limited edition of three pieces.

 

Photo courtesy Web Chronos

 

The Sinn and Urban Jurgensen reflect very well the tastes of the Japanese in general, which tend to run towards more classical, smaller watches, sometimes with a historical inspiration.



Japan editions reflect the Japanese market which is not merely rich but extremely refined and developed in its taste. There is a focus on quality and attention to detail that is part of Japanese culture. They know quality when they see it; more than half of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity watches reside in Japan.

 

A Simplicity outside of Japan 



There is also significant attention to history, hence remakes of vintage watches are popular. In addition to the 556 shown here Sinn has also produced a remake of the Heuer Bundeswehr flyback chronograph for the Japanese market. And the Omega Speedmaster is enormously popular in Japan, thanks to its moon landing connection; dozens of Speedmaster limited editions have been made for Japan over the years.

 

But there is also tremendous respect for actual vintage watches; for instance the quality and number of vintage Rolex sports watches available in Japan is unsurpassed elsewhere.

 

These cultural traits are also reflected in Japanese watch magazines, which are arguably the best in the world in terms of technical content, historical research and photography. But they are almost always only in Japanese, which also reflects the general insularity of Japanese culture. It is a shame for the quality of content is unparalleled. One of the best magazines in my opinion is Chronos Japan which has incredible technical content.

 

Japan is experiencing a terrible tragedy now. My respect and admiration for the country, especially the culture of collecting, makes it even more saddening to see what’s happening. Let’s hope they recover well and speedily.

 

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-03-17 22:00:42

...and I echo your sentiments of support for Japan.  I, too, hope for a speedy return to normality and prosperity for all those affected by the natural disaster.   I am not at all surprised by the Japanese taste in watches, based on the limited editions you showcased.  Classic, timeless designs will always be relevant and evergreen.

Thanks for the post!

Cheers,
Daos

I recently returned from a trip to Japan and experienced just the kind of respect and enthusiasm for watches, both new and vintage, of which you speak.  I was fortunate to go to several large ADs as well as the vintage stores in Nakano Boardwalk which are like a mecca for fans of vintage Rolex, Omega and other several brands.  My heart goes out to the people effected by this terrible unfolding situation.

Regards,

Zac 

Having spent a significant part of my life in Japan, I agree with many of your astute observations. Thanks.

nt.

It's sad though, seeing such great watches in such small limited editions.

Cheers,

--

Richard.

..people, the strive and determination for perfection through hardwork, great attention to detail and meticulosity.. and all these are probably transformed into their refined tastes for refined watches.  Samurai, honor, loyalty, anime, Gundam, paintings, tattoos, robotics, cars, Shimanos, and many other things the whole world enjoy and need. 

And they will rise fast! They have the people, the know how, the money and strong corporations.

cen@jkt

No message body

They are a tasteful and friendly culture!

We've visited Japan numerous times and have nothing but praise for the people there. They go out of their way to help others and are very orderly and civilized.

Because Japanese focus in quality, art, tradition and prestige (in things they produce themselves), it is not a surprise that they appreciate high end watchmaking.

I'm sure the Japanese people will be able to rise through the occasion and emerge stronger than before. May God bless this beautiful country and it's people!

.. not all seem to agree with your assessment above, but thank you so much for your kind words mentioned here.  Japan, of course had lots of help from others, too, to come here.

I may start translating Chronos Japan - would anyone be interested in buying?

I am so touched by this post and replies.  As I always say, everyone is welcome - I will personally guide you, I mean when things have settled down, of course.  If anyone is interested, here is one way to help: hublot.watchprosite.com

By the way, I am so happy that you went home without scratch

Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2011-03-18 03:28:58

i do believe that japanese taste is a basic block which one should observe if enrichment of taste is the aim.

 Faisal

And also I too would like to add my thoughts for the people of Japan.

I too hope that they are soon able to start moving forward after the terrible events of the past week.

Ken, PM sent

Regards

Tony

thanks a lot. I echo your sentiments wholeheartedly.

 

Best

Andreas

When I'm in Japan I always drool over the limited edition Omegas that your market gets.

Throughout this incredible disaster, one clear trait of the Japanese people is to collectively, with amazing calm, work together to overcome hardship.
I have nothing but profound respect with how people treat each other in Japan during disasters and in general.

I was {almost} joking with a friend of mine that if the same situation were going on here in California, there would most likely be near anarchy and mass hysteria, looting, etc. This message has been edited by mrsnak on 2011-03-18 08:32:40

Thanks SJX for the update of the horological scene from your visit to Japan.

There are always quirky small editions to be found there.

One of my favourite watches is a Limited Edition found at WAKO store in Ginza, just out walking alone, one day in Tokyo.

 

Titanium case in 200 pieces. The 'special' serial number made it a MUST for my birthday that day.

Chronograph pusher action almost as smooth as A.Lange & Sohne Datograph!

The Joy of Japan.

 

MTF

 

I really like it. Thanks for the photo,

Cheers,

Filip

nt

But is seiko B as printed on the dial? And I assume the number correspond with date of birth?

Best,

Horo

is a line of watches higher than the starting Seiko level.

That is the B symbol.

WAKO is the luxury department store on the corner of Ginza. It is the Hattori family store and as we know, that family founded and still has a family member as CEO of Seiko, despite it having gone public company.

The special number was not my birth date but for Orientals, even Japanese, is pretty special.  Last piece available  --  maybe they had held on to it in the flagship store?

 

Regards,

MTF

Is it still Langes and Journes and Dufours still? Are they into Urwerks and MBFs? If there are so many limited editions created just for the Japanese market, are they essentially buying limited editions because of the rarity, or are they looking for fundamental construction and finishing differences between the regular edition and their limited edition cousins? Are the usual limited edition champions of the typical PamRooBang selling well?

Best,

Horo

Lange, FPJ are still big here.  But Patek is also big.  Dufour has made just one model and I can't say it is "hot" now - 130 out of 200, and one collector has 8 of them.  It WAS big hit.  They buy LEs, as a plus to their collections.  If the regular models don't sell, the brands don't make LEs, right?  But it is true that Japanese like LE models regardless of whether they already have the regular model.  There are many who buys same model but different finish or color.  Pam is big, Hublot is big, but ROO is not big.  I think Japan is the only market where ROO doesn't sell as well as they want to.  Japanese wrists are, well, small.  I don't understand the popularity of PAM myself, so I can't comment on why PAM sells well here.

My 2 yen.

Ken

A collector with eight Dufour's?! I would love his insights on the consistency and reproducibility of appearance and finish across his collection. I have asked this question in years past on the AHCI Forum but it is difficult to answer because there are few opportunities to get multiple pieces in the one place. The same question applies to Voutilainen and all watches that are man-made and finished versus machine finished (although I acknowledge there is some overlap). Is a human more or less consistent than a machine?

Andrew

At one occasion I was with a gentleman who has had one Simplicity and several years later he got the second one fresh from Mr. Dufour.  We compared them, with another watch connoisseur - both pieces went through three pairs of eyes (owner, expert, and me) for a while.  The conclusion was the older one is slightly better finish than the latest fresh one.   The difference is slight and the reason is only the guesses and I don't elaborate here.  Maybe it was just within the variation of sample by sample.  I have none, by the way   At the time of Dufour "boom" in Japan, I was in US....  Sigh....

Ken

In your view, why is AP less popular then Hublot? In most markets, it seems to me its the reverse? As for the small wrist theory...I agree with you, but wouldn't that affect Pams and Bangs sale as well, unless they are bought not for wearing, but for collecting in safe?

What do you think is the next "big thing" horological wise, in the japanese market? Does watch endorsement by sports and public personalities or events influences the japanese collectors purchasing decision?

In terms of independents, are the Roman Gaultiers and Voutalinens sell well there, unlike the Urwerks and MBFs?

Best,

Horo

AP is more popular in many market even in Japan - in terms of popularity or well-known-ness, as a high-end watch brand.  But as for sales, I believe in many markets, Hublot sells more than AP. As for PAM, like I said, I do NOT understand why people buy PAM at all, so I can't answer why Japanese people with small wrist buy them.  But I see many in the financial market like PAM - maybe because it is flashy.  So is Frank Muller.  It is so hard not to wonder when I see those in the wrists of the counterparty I do business with.  Not because of their taste (everyone can have his own taste and it is none of my business), but because those people makes millions of dollars every year and why PAM, why Frank Muller?  Anyway, no offense to those PAM/FM fans.

Next big thing...  It is true that the mass market level is easily influenced by those sports or celebrity ad column.  Hublot is closer to mass market while AP is aimed to be in the hi-end level where people do care the size of the watch - just my guess.  For mass market, the next big thing may be those celebrity stuff - as always.  For higher end, I don't know.  Rick people buy whatever looks interesting.  Patek and Lange as well as (higher-end) JLC have stable fans.

Indies.  I haven't met anyone with Gautiers.  I have seen a few with Voutilainen.  I have seen one Urwerks in the wild, but never MBF.  Even an AD said they have never seen it sold from their store, either.  As SJX analyzed, Japanese market do not generally appreciate Avant Garde style - neither do I.  But again, look at the success of Dufour.  If you make something that htis the itchy point, then this market will pour enormous amount of money into it.   I personally would not mind owning Simplicity or similar level of independent even if it is similar in design IF the finish is as good, if not better, as Simplicity.  Like SJX said, Japanese are "detail oriented" or anal collectors.  Of course, the movement must be original and convincing, too.

Ken

..it may house an ordinary Unitas movement. I am not even looking at PAM in house movements. Why dont u like Pam? I guess maybe personal preference. I was gonna add that PAM is very bigin Hongkong and i thought Japan too. Comparison of popularity between Hublot and AP, I perceived AP to be more embraced but u mentioned otherwise, Hublot. Just maybe it is price point which determines market acceptance? Just my opinion.