Comments:
It's truly a weird question, I have wound many pieces and this is the first time I feel I will wind and wind and forget to stop.
I will follow the advise closely.
Thank you you again
*CL
How careful are you during winding?
I have a question regarding winding.
Is it advisable to NOt wind the watch fully?
My 34mm Simplicity has a large winding crown, the experience of winding the watch i s just amazing.
But I must say I constantly have the 'fear' that I might over wind it and 'break' the stem....is that even possible?
Is there any way to prevent that from happening?
Cheers,
CL
Is it advisable to NOt wind the watch fully?
My 34mm Simplicity has a large winding crown, the experience of winding the watch i s just amazing.
But I must say I constantly have the 'fear' that I might over wind it and 'break' the stem....is that even possible?
Is there any way to prevent that from happening?
Cheers,
CL
Smooth and steady...
...my recommendation is to remove the watch before winding so you don't put any lateral (bend) force on the stem, be smooth and steady on the crown, there's no reason to go fast and that way you'll be able feel any increase in resistance. When you feel it increase, stop. It's wound.
It doesn't need to be babied, but nor should you be over-enthusiastic.
I don't think you can break the stem with the above advice, even with a large diameter crown.
I'll avoid...
...the obvious joke, "Send it to me, and I'll keep it wound for you!"
As advice above, plus if you wind it daily, you'll quickly develop a sense of how many turns it takes you to reach full-wind. You will
then naturally slow as you reach your limit. I think it takes considerable force to break the stem or gear teeth.
I don't have a Simplicity, of course, but I wind forward only (instead of back-and-forth) and then upon reaching full-wind, I give a single backwards
turn of the crown to relieve any residual tension in the click.
-Tom
As advice above, plus if you wind it daily, you'll quickly develop a sense of how many turns it takes you to reach full-wind. You will
then naturally slow as you reach your limit. I think it takes considerable force to break the stem or gear teeth.
I don't have a Simplicity, of course, but I wind forward only (instead of back-and-forth) and then upon reaching full-wind, I give a single backwards
turn of the crown to relieve any residual tension in the click.
-Tom
I have a little experience with various Dufour models...
including the Simplicity.
Hi, John,
You've gotten good advice so far; follow it and don't worry so much.
Cheers,
TM
Thank you everyone :-)
It's truly a weird question, I have wound many pieces and this is the first time I feel I will wind and wind and forget to stop.
I will follow the advise closely.
Thank you you again
*CL
Foward: Some basics in handling the crown . . .
It seems like your question is answered, however I thought the following would help. It is an article on how to handle the crown, as it's good for all of us to be refreshed in the handling of our watches. Tip number 5 is directly relevant to your concern. I copied this article from a TZ forum (I hope I didn't violate any copyrights ) and it is written by Walt Odets:
1. The time may be set backwards or forwards. In general, it is best to go in the direction that will require least rotation to get there.
2. The exception to #1 is with calendar mechanisms, or other complications. Generally, you should not set the time backwards while these mechanisms are engaged or set the time backwards by passing through the normal periods of engagement. Each watch varies, so consult the manufacturer on this. If in doubt, set the time forward and correct the complication (such as a calendar) afterwards.
3. When setting the time forward, do so with short, brisk turns, rather than slow, extended ones. This will prevent overbanking, particularly if the cannon pinion is too tight.
4. When manually resetting a calendar, do so slowly. These mechanisms are not made for high speed operation.
5. Winding may be done by turning the crown only clockwise, or by turning it to and fro. I prefer the former because it doesn't wear the castle gear (clutch in U.S. terminology) and crown wheel (winding pinion). Do, however, give an occasional back turn to redistribute lubricants.
6. Hand wind automatics only if necessary. Most automatics worn daily do not need a "touch up" each morning. Hand winding an automatic when it is fully wound is unnecessary and the most likely to cause wear. When you hear a slight, intermittent clicking during hand winding, stop, because this means the watch is fully wound (this is the spring bridal slipping in the barrel).
7. Do, however, give any automatic a few turns of manual winding occasionally to redistribute lubricants in the mechanism and seals.
8. Never use force in pulling out the crown. If you feel resistance, rotate it slightly and gently as you pull it out. This will help align the castle wheel and intermediate hand setting wheel.
9. When pushing in the crown, do so gently. If there is resistance, rotate is slightly and gently as you push. This will help alight the castle wheel and crown gear.
10. If you feel an increase in roughness or resistance during winding or hand setting this means that the keyless works need lubrication.
11. If you feel a decrease in resistance during hand setting, the cannon pinion may be loose and require adjustment. This will often be accompanied by hand slippage that may give the appearance of incorrect rate.
) and it is written by Walt Odets:1. The time may be set backwards or forwards. In general, it is best to go in the direction that will require least rotation to get there.
2. The exception to #1 is with calendar mechanisms, or other complications. Generally, you should not set the time backwards while these mechanisms are engaged or set the time backwards by passing through the normal periods of engagement. Each watch varies, so consult the manufacturer on this. If in doubt, set the time forward and correct the complication (such as a calendar) afterwards.
3. When setting the time forward, do so with short, brisk turns, rather than slow, extended ones. This will prevent overbanking, particularly if the cannon pinion is too tight.
4. When manually resetting a calendar, do so slowly. These mechanisms are not made for high speed operation.
5. Winding may be done by turning the crown only clockwise, or by turning it to and fro. I prefer the former because it doesn't wear the castle gear (clutch in U.S. terminology) and crown wheel (winding pinion). Do, however, give an occasional back turn to redistribute lubricants.
6. Hand wind automatics only if necessary. Most automatics worn daily do not need a "touch up" each morning. Hand winding an automatic when it is fully wound is unnecessary and the most likely to cause wear. When you hear a slight, intermittent clicking during hand winding, stop, because this means the watch is fully wound (this is the spring bridal slipping in the barrel).
7. Do, however, give any automatic a few turns of manual winding occasionally to redistribute lubricants in the mechanism and seals.
8. Never use force in pulling out the crown. If you feel resistance, rotate it slightly and gently as you pull it out. This will help align the castle wheel and intermediate hand setting wheel.
9. When pushing in the crown, do so gently. If there is resistance, rotate is slightly and gently as you push. This will help alight the castle wheel and crown gear.
10. If you feel an increase in roughness or resistance during winding or hand setting this means that the keyless works need lubrication.
11. If you feel a decrease in resistance during hand setting, the cannon pinion may be loose and require adjustment. This will often be accompanied by hand slippage that may give the appearance of incorrect rate.