Horological Meandering

Dear everybody,

I have earlier been discussing that for watch collecting I have made my own "Twelwe Rules". My intention is not to say with my own Rules that i.e. and old brand would be somehow better or more interesting than say Journe or Voutilainen. However, because my goal is to pass the collection to the next generation (in my Jurisdiction I can protect it in my Last Will), the best bet is that the old Brands will be still produced when my yet unborn grandchildren will get my watches. On that very moment when they will get those, I hope that they will enjoy real proud of ownership as well as know the history of the Brand as well as the specific wathes.. Furthermore, my desire is that they can again pass the watches to their children, watches which can still be serviced, watches which are still functional and watches which their grand grandfather weared proudly a long time ago.

So please understand that I am not saying that my Rules would be right. All I am saying is that they suit me as well as to my finances.

TWELWE RULES

1. All watches in the Collections must be produced by true manufacturers.

2. The manufacturer must be a Brand with a history of minimum 100 years of length. In case the manufacturer has been out from business for a short time, this time can not exceed 10% of the age of the Brand (=Qurtz Crisis). If watches have been out of production over 10% of the history of the Brand, the production had to be re-started by a descent of the previous owners of the Brand (=Lange Rule). In all cases the products must carry clear DNA of the Brand. In every case, there must be a production history of watches exceeding 100 years.

3. Only fully mechanical watches are allowed. No quartz or electronics are allowed.

4. All movements based on mass-produced base movements type ETA are prohibited.

5. In case the movement is not produced by the Brand, the same must be produced by a reputable manufacturer. However, in all cases the movements must be finished and decorated according to the traditions of the Brand.

6. The watch cases and the bracelets must be produced of metal and the straps from any form of leather. No rubber, carbon, plastics or other modern materials are allowed.

7. In general, all watches within each Brand must offer good value for the money. The Collection is not focused on Limited Editions watches but to watches which are in the time of purchase on regular production.

8. The Collection should cover all Top Ten Brands fulfilling the first 7 Rules.

9. All watches are acquired new in order to secure a full service history of the watches. All original boxes, stickers  and documents must be stored.

10. All watches are to be weared. Each and every watch is to have a specific task for its usage. When wearing a watch, the Owner must be convinced that he/she is always properly equipped for the occasion.

11. Economical facts when buying the watches must always be taken into account. The complications of the watches, if any, must represent "Useful Complications" with sensible costs taking into account the personal financial situation. If expensive complications are acquired, one example of each complication is enough.

12. All watches are serviced according to the recommendations of the manufacturer either by an authorised dealer or by the manufacturer. The watches belonging to the Collection are bought to be kept. The goal is to transfer all watches to the next generations. In order to add the interest about each and every watch, a file is always established for every watch bought. To these files all possible information as well as articles about the watches in the Collection are collected.

***

THE COLLECTION

The collection is divided into three sub-groups. In addition to the collected watches, wearable watches with complications are acquired. However, with these watches the Twelwe Rules will apply. The sub-groups of the Collection are:

1. Ultra Slim Dress Watches. These watches must be made of a precious metal like any colour of gold or platinum. The watches must have a diameter of not less than 35 mm and not more than 40 mm. The thickness of the watch case must be maximum 7 mm and the diameter of the watch must be over five times the thickness of the watch. The watches can be either manual winding or automatic. All watches should have a simple dial with preferably just two hands only; a third hand can be accepted subject other terms are met.

2. Dive watches. The dive watches must be designed for diving and the prefered depth rating of the watchesw is 300 meters. The stainless steel diving watches must have a metal bracelet and preferably an optional strap made of rubber, canvas or water proof leather. The main focus is in stainless steel or titanium watches.

3. Heirs of Marine Chronometers. These watches must have a connection to the sea, navigation or yachting. The name, design or history of the watch should reflect its connection to the sea. All watches must be water proof deeper than 30 meters. The main focus is in stainless steel watches.

***

Dear fellow Purists,

The above collection themes are closely related with my work and with my hobbies. Now I would challenge all of you to propose me watches which are fulfilling my strict criterias! Perhaps I have missed something...

Sometimes, in the unforeseen future I will then present you all pictures and details of my dodest Collection.

Thank you for reading and I will appreciate any kind of feedback and comments; both good and bad.

Regards,

dr.kol

 

 

I am sure most people have rules - whether explicit or not. I certainly have both types.

That is an impressive post, my friend...

Damn, These are 12 strict rules.

The challenge is quite easy for the 2 first Sub Groups:

Dressy Watches: JLC new Master Ultra Thin, some VC, and PP Calatrava would fit the bill, even if I'm not sure that the VC and the PP fit the 7mm criteria

Diving Watches: Rolex Sub or SD without problems, and some LC Diving, like the Navy Seals Alarm or the Diving Chrono, the Blancpain FF.

Heirs of Marine Chronometers?

Well, that is a problem, because I would have said U.N but U.N doesn't fit the bill of your 12 rules...

The good thing with your 12 rules is that you drastically reduce your wish list, which will mae your Banker's day.



The bad thing is that you avoid some pure beauties, like the FF Vintage, Some modern Panerais ( like the pre v, or the ealry A / B or C series, U.N and so on...

We all have our own rules, indeed.

But yours are impressively strict!

Best,

Nicolas

i would never criticise anyones reason for buying a watch, but your rules do seem more of a clinical analysis with very little passion involved. i'm a firm believer that the love of watches is a passion and your rules mean that you miss out on some fabulous vintage pieces which fullfil all of your criteria other than being new. there are some superb dress watches from the 40's and 50's, but these are ruled out.

however if this method of collecting works for you then i'm sure you will own some lovely pieces which you can pass down to future generations.

best

Graham

Nicholas,

Thanks for comments. Actually not so strict...

Ulta slim dress watches: i have collected till now at least VC Patrimony in all three golds, one AP with 2003 cal., Chopard, Breguet have a nice one, one PP fits, Jaeger's 38 mm Ultra Slim. What am I missing?

Diving watches are also easy: BB FF, Rolex Submariner G-P Sea Hawk II, Jaeger's Alarm Navy Seals (even it's limited), new Panerai, Seiko Marinemaster...

Heirs of Marine Chronometers: PP Nautilus, AP Royal Oak, VC Overseas, Breguet Marine, Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, Rolex Yach Master...

Just to start with. What am I missing?

Furthermore, I allow myself some complications like Lange Perpetual, one Breguet Tradition, etc. So actually it quite a job to get a well covering collection.

Regards,

Regarding to your rules ...

For example the new Panerais:

The movements are not in house, but made by Valfleurier, so not a real manufacture, but more a Laboratorio de ideas.

Can you elaborate?

Best,

nicolas

I think it's a real risk, as once you have applied all the rules you will have relatively few candidates in any one category. You may be faced with a choice between buying something that you don't really like and buying nothing at all.

it works fine but if you are collecting to pass on to your children, then your rules don't work.  Ebauch movements have been used by the best of makers and those particular watches are at the height of collectability.  You've got to have a good eye for style, robustness of the particular brand, history included and the market fluctuations.  But, it's not like picking stocks where a solid company is a solid investment.  That seems to be your guide.  Two cases in point - Patek makes movements in house, their 1463 has Valjoux and Lemania, it's worth collecting and has gone through the roof.  Rolex makes their own movements but what about the 6239, 41, 6263, etc?  The list goes on and on.  Know your horology and it will serve you best.

Zongaman

1.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

2.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

3.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

4.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

5.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

6.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

7.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

8.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

9.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

10.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

11.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

12.  I buy what I like and will wear on a regular basis.

Craig

Not sure which is better, I think they are all number 1 in my book !!!!!!!!!!!! 

Zongaman

...of a formerly oppressed, disenfranchised and shallow Antipodean colonial, rules are singularly unattractive, and exist to be resisted. Indeed, it seems that the only rules with any regular application down here are either the Rules of Fight Club or (for the Monty Python cognescenti) the Rules of the Faculty of Philosophy of the University of Woolloomooloo.

Taking a different approach: to follow no rules at all (other than Craig's most sensible guideline, above) is the path to constant surprise and pleasure in this life, having the capacity to lead to an eclectic, dynamic and varied collection which in and of itself may nonetheless have great inherent value. It will always satisfy; it will not be hidebound by artificial or uncomfortable constraints; properly curated, it should offer at least as much emotional  satisfaction and 'retained value' to the generations who follow. Indeed - who knows what they may want or value? What purpose then does it serve to be collecting principally with them in mind and to impose personal strictures on the preservation of that which is to be passed to them? Why deprive yourself in this life, or them in theirs, of the pleasure of an idiosyncratic piece by a Master - a Voutilainen decimal repeater, say, or a Prescher multi-axis tourbillon, or an Oechslin astronomical piece?

However - chacun à son goût. The ability to adhere to a carefully considered long term strategy is impressive. It would still be a great pleasure to see (and a privilege to inherit!) a collection developed by the application of the 'twelve commandments' !  ;-)

 

Cheers,

pplater.

nt

Thanks everybody. It is really nice to see that some of you are reacting with passion.

First of all, the only real reason for rules is that the rules excist in order to be violated. Nicholas recommended me the Lange Anniversary. It does not fit into my collection but still I have basically decided to buy it. I have also bought things like Breguet Tradition, VC Jubileum, etc. So these are exceptions and the exceptions are always a lot of fun!

Secondly, when thinking and planning to leave the watches to the next generation, the future value of the watches is not a big concern. I do not think that analythical investing to watches is possible.

Thirdly, sorry for my ignorance. I thought that the new 9000 movements of Panerai are built by Panerai. So I should never believe advertising... I know perfectly well that i.e. Patek has been using, and they still probably are, base movements built by others. So what... As long as Patek has finished those movements up to their standards.

The main issue for me is finally that there are so many lovely watches I would like to own but can not afford to buy. That is the main reason that from the beginning I decided to buy watches made by the traditional manufacturers. I am already over 50 so I will let the younger and richer people buy some of those wonderful watches produced by the  producers without long history.

I surely will, one day, show my collection on these pages. However, there is not going to be anything very sexy except one piece I have reserved from the Far East. I will show that still this year. That new and very nice watch probably fits best to the fourth, unlisted and biggest cathegory of my collection. The Exceptions of the Rules.

All the best,

 

 

 

I just  bought everything that I like. I personally didn't care if in the next 100 years or so the company is still alive or not.
I don't even know if my children or grandchildren or grand grand children will love collecting watch like me or not.
I am not trying to offense you with your personal rules, but it seems to be too strict and firm.
you only lived once, so why not try a brand that you personally loved down from your hearts.

I love MB&F, Richard Mille, DeWitt, Voutilainen, Vianney, Hublot, Serpaneva, and many more.
And one day I hope to collect all of them, because I don't have any rules in horological loved.
I love them because I love them.

....the day you fall for "that watch"...

 

Its nice to have some rules to break though

The reason I'm saying this is because it seems as if you've already broken the rules several times.  So why really have them?  You're always going to buy what you desire, and rules are meant to be broken, so why have these 12 rules? 

My 2 cents,
Anthony

I once made rules like that. Wow.

If rules are the framework that you live by..then I guess, for what its worth, these rules you made will work, and you will be happy!!!

I tried, for myself, rules. I even wrote them and they were published sometime in 1998 or so. For watch collecting.

I guess, I broke everyone.

In the end, for me...the watches that I will hand down are the most important.

The ones that are not sold away. This does not mean that the ones I kept are better, or that the ones I sold away are not as good. Not at all.

It means a lot to me, that my grand children get to know me, thru my watches. I don't want them to see my values thru my watch collection..to be honest, at one time..I did...but I want them to have values thru their life experiences, and not mine. BUT..from my collection..I want them to see that I have found much happiness and a deep insight into people and life.

So...I want them to have the eta based watches too. I want them also to have battery watches, even if they may not have those batteries anymore. It was a part of my life.

Of course.the Langes and Pateks will be there.but for contrast.

And that's just me.

Thanks for making me think again! It was a great post you made!