Horological Meandering

A few weeks back, we had the pleasure of attending a watch showcase by Hermès at their Kuala Lumpur Pavilion Boutique. I found the watches to be very interesting (especially considering how Hermès is so well known with their leather products) so I managed to take some shots and do some research on them to share with you.

One of the stars of the evening was the Cape Cod Grand Hours limited edition. The Cape Cod Grand Hours comes in two limited editions of 171 in rose gold and 171 in white gold; the number corresponds to the number of years since the founding of Hermès in 1837.

The Grand Hours module is based on a system that serve to speed up or slow down the movement of the hour hand, while the minutes and seconds move at the regular pace. Inside is a Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement calibre H1928.















There were also some other pieces that caught my eye...

The Arceau Chronograph... (case design based on the stirrup)







The Cape Cod Phases De Lune

Made with a Vaucher Fleurier 12" H1929 manufacture movement inside... powered with twin barrels for 55 hours power reserve.









And also the Cape Cod 8 Jours Heures Sautantes

Made with a handwound Vaucher H8928 manufacture movement inside providing jumping hours, power reserve indicator and 8 days power reserve.











Upon further discussions with Eric Grellety Bosviel, Hermès Asiapac Managing Director and Chan Maelynn, Brand Manager, we learnt that the tradition of watches in Hermes has existed since the earlier parts of the 1900s (even with some collaborations with JLC, Universal and VC in the 1930s).

During the 1920s Émile-Maurice Hermès added the Hermès name to wristwatches. Below is a picture taken in 1912 where Jacqueline Hermès, the daughter of Emile Hermès, is pictured wearing a pocket-watch with a Hermès strap.



In 1928, Hermès began selling watches at 24, Faubourg Saint-Honoré with the Ermeto, a pocket-watch that is automatically wound by a system of shutters that slide open and shut each time one reads the time. Made in conjunction with the Swiss watch Manufacture Movado.



A shot of a famous creation, the Hermès belt watch...



Through those discussions, we learned a lot more about Hermès watch evolution over the years and their upcoming plans. I think we can expect some interesting developments soon.

My thanks to Eric and Maelynn for kindly hosting us and providing us with the information. Thanks for looking!

Hello KT,

Thanks for the post. Could you please elaborate on how the Grand Hours module work?

Regards,
Tat

to what I gathered, the system is made possible with toothed ovals that allow the hours to move at a different rate. According to them, you can customise which particular hours you want to be made 'special' i.e. to highlight the importance of those hours (e.g. break time, hours spent with the family etc).

I recall of Franck Muller. One of their watches are something like that, not sure how it works mechanically but at certain hours it moves slower, or have a longer circle Pretty cool thing and Hermes one looks a lot better imho, talking bout that Cape Cod

 

 

 

Regards

Jacky

lunch and happy hours, more booze

Looks good though...including the Cape Cod.

KT, thanks for the post. 

Kong

No, the mechanical that is used in the FM Cintrée Iregular Retrograde Hour is different. I beleive it is based on a cam with irregular slopes. Slopes are more or less progressive to have a variable speed. I read also about the Crazy Hours, but this is something different again.
To my knowledge Hermes is the firs one introducing a variable speed. I was working on a project that is making speed variable as well, but not with ovals wheels.

When they say the customer can select which hours are fasters it is in fact the possibility to choose among 6 different watches (6 different dials : 6 different references in the catalog). But once you're out of the store you can't "select" anymore.

Christian.

Eric GB of Hermes did explained to us when we met last but i think i did not fully understand it. I always thought its like the FM system. Variable speed is cool

 

Regards

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Eric and Mae is indeed very kind The Cape Cod 8 days is my favourite of them all!

And yes they are getting serious in their watches and i believe Hermes will always be Hermes Still thinking bout their wallet...sweat~

 

 

 

 

Regards

...for the wallet is that its so nice! (in case its a bit confusing) But i've gotta gather some power in my current wallet before i could change to that!=P

 

 

 

Regards

Thks for sharing

I like the Cape Cod Phases de Lune and the 8 days and their font is unique to Hermes. The Grand Hours is interesting. Wonder if I could get to see these watches here in Singapore's boutique. Time to email/call Hermes!

Thanks,
Lionel

Can be seen at the Hermès Singapore boutique

nt

They have their own distinct design. The numerals have a cool font, and the design is extremely professional - no inconsistancies or silly elements. The moon phase is very beautifully designed, so clear and elegant. The jumping hour seems to work practically, which isn't self-evident. All in all some intriguing, attractive watches with what seems to be impeccably finished and executed movements.

Thanks for sharing these beauties - you have given me something to enjoy ... and think about!

Sven

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Well, in fact, the stretching comes from variable speed. The closer the numbers are, the fastets is the speed in this area. And vice versa.

There a a couple of solutions to make the speed variable in a simple way. One of them is the useage of oval gears or any non circular gears, like these :








Well, all you have to know is that the speed ratio in gears is proportional to the diameter of each wheel, and therefore, to the distance of the contact point between both. With round gears like :


In this case, we can evaluate the diameter ration is 1:2. And you can also see that the distances between both centers and the contact point are constant. The ratio of these distances is, 1:2 as well, and it will be kept constant while the wheels are turning.




Now if we go back to the oval gears of the Hermes :



If you imagine the wheels turning, you will see that the contact point is moving from left to right. This means that the ratio is variable and the speed is variable as well.

This is how you can have symetrical variations of speed.


You can also see a video on Youtube if you search for the following string : "non-circular gears and planetary gear".

Christian

thanks!

As there is no speed variation in the C.Ferrara, but more sequential alternated moves : Linear / Rotation.

Love the C.Ferrara too. Well I love different ways of time display in general, to make it short. That is, to me, the more open field in watch making and I really enjoy playing with it...

Christian.

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I agee. I found that these designs are definitely interesting and clean. According to Eric, the watches share the same designers as the other products in the Hermès family in order to maintain some form of consistency throughout their product line.