Horological Meandering

I can write on and on about what it has been for me, I'm ecstatic just thinking back about all of the experience!

We all begin somewhere…

My hobby for horology started in mid 2014. As a curious mechanical engineer, I one day stumbled across the famed PP sonnerie grand complication. This I believe was after being in my grandfather's home, discovering a fake PP in the drawer (hey, we all start somewhere!). It all started there... Had only the vaguest idea of high end brands, etc.

Fast forward to 2015. My family had a Rolex Datejust as a heirloom which I appreciated as a benchmark for a "serious" watch. However I didn't know anything else besides Rolex being a "famous" brand. I didn't know my mainsprings to hairsprings, I had no clue what ETA is, I mix up Patek Philippe and Christophe Claret...

So it all started whereby I knew I had to get my own first mechanical watch. I had a Quartz Tissot Chrono, but knew that a mechanical is vastly different to own and take care of. The budget gateway drug was therefore, the Seiko 5. With such a thing on my wrist, I appreciated the complexities of mechanicals even more. I learnt the basics of how work and how to handle them. The general dos and don't, etc.

Around that time, I mustered up more courage to see "high-end" watch brands in boutiques. I was shy at the time, not wanting to be a "freeloader" and just handling watches I most likely wouldn't purchase! However, I eventually visited a couple boutiques.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

This was one of them, and that's when I finally spoke up, pointing to the Master Control Date in the display glass "excuse me, can I...look at this closer?"

The salesperson gladly showed me the watch. In all its glory, it was the first time I handled a well finished watch with display caseback; the beautiful movement and dial finish..it's all so overwhelming to me having only handled a Seiko 5 and an older Rolex at that point! I thanked the boutique salesperson and walked out later.

After that time, I did more research. I learnt of the Holy trinity of PP VC AP, but how JLC isn't far behind. I learnt more why watches cost so much - the materials, the different finishing techniques, the craftsmanship required to build these micro machines. Various different brand names all popped up in my searches, yet only a few really resonated with me. The Internet exposed me to different complications, from the simplest of moonphases to chronographs and perpetual calendars, tourbillons and minute repeaters.

Amidst all that, I then found my niche - Dress watches.

The simplest, most elegant three handers are what reaches out to me. Mechanically basic, but its the simplicity that demands the clean and fine execution at higher levels of watchmaking. I therefore continued my research into dress watches...

...Eventually, it all pointed back to the same direction. Jaeger-LeCoultre. The very watch I first handled at the boutique. Within my budget, and had the finesse of higher-end brands. "This, shall be my entry point to haute horlogerie" I told myself.

And early in 2015, I pulled the trigger. A phonecall, a visit to the JLC boutique, and I finally acquired my first high-end dress watch. Despite the significantly thinner wallet, it was a pleasurable experience I'll never forget. "This watch, will now broaden my perspective of finer watchmaking once I get more intimate with it" I told myself.

Unfortunately, long story short there was an issue with the watch which therefore had to be returned to the service centre. I had a lemon which eventually got replaced (after a grueling 3-4 months), but the replacement works fine so I'm grateful.

During the rest of the year, I ventured further learning about other brands and handled various timepieces at boutiques. Early on, there was one brand name that stood out - so unique, so beautifully elegant, so simple. But also potentially so complex.

A. Lange & Söhne

Early 2015 I first heard of the brand and found out more of it. Its history, its attention to finishing and its very unique and iconic statement in their timepieces. It was a strong allure to me. While not perfect (no brand is), this I have set as my endgame. Not a VC. Not a PP. But it shall be a Lange. I hold onto this oath that in the future once I acquire the means, my next stepup from my current collection shall be one of their watches.

This was the brand that brought my attention to chronographs. Traditional, horizontal clutch column wheel chronographs. As we all know of the iconic Datograph and its movement - that left me in awe. "How, on Earth, does this thing even work?". The beauty to me was the mystery within its complexity; the city of levers and bridges. I then set out on a quest investigating how it works.

Watching videos and reading up on chronographs, it finally all clicked together. Despite only having handled the real deal once, I (think!) I finally understood how it all came together. Rapturous, I then jotted down all my thoughts in writing. "Amazing...all that ingenuity in a movement barely an inch or so in diameter?". It was then I restructured all my thoughts and presented them in an article form to share on a different website, for others to enjoy and appreciate the complexity and genius into such a complication.

I still tell myself that I will obtain an 1815 Chronograph when times get better for me, long down the road.

Horology meets...Lego?

Prior to all of this, I was an avid fan of Lego. More than just merely a toy, it is a powerful foundation which allows manifestation of mechanical prototypes and machines. Just by handling them, people can get a much better mechanical logic grasp of how gears, levers, etc. function.

The one fine day a friend of mine showed me a beautiful machine. A Zenith. Not just any Zenith, but a very special one from its Academy series. The Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage. A beautiful piece of horology inspired by marine clocks on gimbals, Zenith minituarised the whole setup into a free-floating spherical cage with a complex mechanism for its function. Intrigued and wanting to learn more how it works, I fumbled with my Lego Technic bricks to get a better idea of its functionality.

A Eureka moment then appeared, and after two nights I managed to make a working model. Enthusiastic with the result, I then posted a video and shared it online.

Not long after, the itch came back for making something else. Scavenging through my Lego parts, I then found something interesting....

A Lego cam.

Not a heartcam, but close. "Wait a minute-", gears turning in my head. "I could make something with this. A chronograph perhaps?"

One idea lead to another and I settled on making a rattrapante with Lego (which, surprisingly is perhaps easier to make than a full-fledged chronograph with column wheel!). Somehow, the planets aligned and the sun shined with its glory and….The thing worked. A column wheel rattrapante made of… Lego. Wow.

Excited, I then posted the video online.

The most amazing thing then happened afterwards. Another major horological website caught wind of it and posted it to their frontpage! I personal feel that this still remains as my biggest horological “achievement” till today.

Of other brands, and independents

 As I delved deeper into the hobby, I naturally got exposed to various other kinds of watches. Since my taste is into dress watches, conversely I was not so inclined towards tool, dive, or aviation watches. I preferred traditional watchmaking – afterall, it is a hobby appreciating old technology when Quartz exist today!

Audemars Piguet was one brand I never understood early on. The weird, Avant Garde designs were simply too outlandish for my taste. I did read up more about them however, curious as to why they are a renowned brand. That is when I had an appreciation for their design: the Royal Oak’s Guilloche Tapisserie dial, the aligned “screws” on the bezel, the solid and well-finished bracelet, the distinctive casing… While not my taste, this still remains a brand that I admire; especially APRP.

One day in the middle of 2015, I paid a visit to a local AD interested to see more of the Omega Cal 9300. At the other end however, a certain brand stood out. The salesperson then introduced me to the timepieces of….

Parmigiani Fleurier. I have only heard about them vaguely, but this was the first time I got up close. I held the Tonda 1950 Micro-Rotor in my hands.

Wow.

Rose Gold case with a  white dial, and an excellent movement with a micro-rotor! I spent the rest of the time at the AD admiring it, forgetting about the Speedmasters…

I learnt more about the brand later and show utmost respect for them. A full vertically integrated manufacture with great technical capabilities and high degree of finishing, it’s one of the brands up there indeed. Maybe one day…

But anyway.

Naturally, one thing leads to another. One particular brand that follows is none other than…

You guessed it. Laurent Ferrier.

A mythical brand to my eyes, incredible finishing on a simple dress watch. Sure, its not a Dufour, Voutilainen, Credor or GF; but it’s quite high up there. Alas, due to the limited production quantities I’d thought even handling one in the metal as a farfetched dream.

Then one faithful day, I visited Singapore.

I entered a certain store that caught my eye. Gee, some interesting brand lineup going on. Parmigiani, Breguet, UN,…. Wait, even Glashutte Original? Is that a Moser & Cie?!

I walked closer to admire the Endeavor Perpetual being displayed behind the glass. That’s when at the corner of my eye…I saw it. A whole display of Laurent Ferrier timepieces. 

Something must’ve stirred up in my heart that time, I had to have a closer look. After visiting the rest of the store admiring the fine watches (Urwerk, MB&F,…Even a Voutilainen and Romain Gauthier!), I then mustered up the courage again to speak.

“Excuse me, can I have a closer look...?” pointing towards the corner.

The salesperson kindly brought it out. A Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor, in all its glory. Just breathtaking. It was a dream come true to even come in contact with one!

Thus I told myself. One day… When I finally venture into the world of Independents, I will obtain a Laurent Ferrier.

Another surprise brand

As 2015 comes to a close, I thought I’ve seen it all. Boy I was wrong.

Last month I stumbled across a store that carried unique brands. Speake Marin, Muhle etc. were on display. One particular brand however, stood out among the others.

As I had a strong affinity for German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann was a huge surprise to me. Prior to this I have not heard of the brand before – I was only familiar with the other big names. ALS yes, Glashutte Original I respect, I’ve handled a Lang & Heyne before, I’m aware of Dornbluth…but not Moritz Grossmann.

Again, I asked the salesperson to have a closer look.

Did it struck me as a huge surprise indeed! The finishing is amazing. Containing the typical large plate with balance cock engraving of German watches with Gold Chatons, but this one is different. It is simply meticulously finished and has a very interesting aesthetic that stands out. If you held a gun to my head and I had to choose between a Lange or this, I’d be hard-pressed to make a sound decision!

Therefore, my wishlist expanded yet again.

One final tale for 2015

Remember early on I mentioned my introduction to horology was the PP Grand Comp? Therefore, the minute repeater was one of the complications I discovered early on. Till today, I mentally associate repeaters immediately with two words: “Bloody. Expensive!”

Thus it is a dream to even hear one in person for me.

Last month, I visited the JLC boutique to admire and consider the True Seconds. Before I left, the salesperson said to me “…by the way, do you want to have a look at the Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater?”

“Oh wow, if you don’t mind…Sure!”

He then presented it before me.

The first time I have ever heard a minute repeater chime in person.

...

No, not going to my wishlist. Unrealistically beyond my reach!

Conclusion

Therefore, that concludes my horological journey for 2015. However, 2016 shall be a new beginning for me – another year to delve deeper into this rabbit hole. Never would I have thought a few years back I’d ever venture into such an insane hobby!

Finally, thank you for reading!

Regards,
skyeriding