Independents

Hello everyone. Just joined the site and thought this would be the best way to say hello to the forum. My name is Aaron and I'm attending WOSTEP in Neuchatel, Switzerland in the Basic training course. We started in August 2009 and will be finished this May. We started with micro-mechanics and are now learning the basic skills of a watchmaker.

Anyways, through WOSTEP we are able to create our own school watch. WOSTEP had their own mainplates and bridges made this year for us to refinish and assemble. Since this didn't allow us much freedom for modification or design I decided to make my own watch on top of our school project. The project started as a modification of a 6498, but I became more ambitious and decided to make my own mainplate (based on the 6498 gear train) along with designing a moon phase and power reserve system. I have been documenting the whole experience in blog form at this website "Link removed - no outside links permited"

So if you have time check it out and let me know what you think. I know it doesn't compare to any of the professionals out there, but I hope I can one day be in their league! Of course any and all questions and comments are more than welcome. It's always nice having opinions from people who are passionate about watchmaking.

Thanks!

Firstly a warm welcome to the forum Aaron! Thanks for posting here about your watchmaking project!

I only had time to quickly skim through your blog and the work you're doing is very interesting! I can't wait to go through it in detail when my work day's over  It's great to see an aspiring watchmaker's journey documented like you have done! Your movement looks very interesting!

Love to hear more stories about you and your watch learning experience!

You have come to the right place indeed! I'm sure a lot of us will be following your project with passion and lots of interesting questions for you!

Really impressed by what you have done - all this from 'basic' training! With your ambition & dedication, I'm sure you will go far in this field. Looking forward to further updates from you and to seeing your first finished piece.

cheers

fernando

Looks like a great read!  I will be following very closely!  Thanks for letting us know about your blog.

-Sun

Welcome. Nice work...your blog takes me back to the days of my training...I wasn't at WOSTEP, but many of the independent greats have passed by there, as you know. Might see you at Baselworld ? Otherwise if you're ever in Geneva, pm me before and we can meet at the boutique to have a coffee and talk watches!

Cheers,

Rob 

Yeah I should be in Basel, not sure what day yet though. When are you there? And what will you be doing there? Maybe I'll stop by where you are and say hello.
I'm just looking forward to the independent section again. I don't make it to Geneva very often, but we'll see!

Aaron

that of watch school. It looks like you've been invested in micromechanics for a few years now, and I hope you continue to enjoy success in your work.

you sense for proportions and obviously also your watchmaking skills are excellent. I like your attention to the hairspring and I am looking forward to seeing more of your work!

Best regards,
Magnus

I've been following your blog for some time now and really enjoying following your progress. Keep up the great work!

_john

...thanks for creating that blog. Some great info and documentation of your work. Looking forward to following developments.

I've already been following your blog with great interest. Look forward to seeing the finished products.

Thanks for sharing

grumio

Hey I just did an update for the last 2 weeks, nothing too special though. Cheers!

Hello all!

Just wanted to share some pics of the watch I made at WOSTEP. I just finished the school in May and now am just chilling back at home in Canada. Unfortunately I didn't have the best photography set up here to take some good photos, but these will have to do for now. Let me know what you think.

If you don't know anything about me or my project, you can go to nowyouknowiknowthatyouknow to see how I got to this point.

But a little bit of brief info:

The watch is based on the gear train of a ETA 6498, so that I could use some of the same parts like the wheels and winding parts. I decided to add a few complications, power reserve, moon phase and a stop for the balance. I designed the bridges myself along with the balance bridge which I am most proud of. The bridge was hand engraved by Hanne at Gravalance Engraving. I made the stud holder and swan neck adjustment as well as the regulator and regulating pins. The watch has a new click design and new pallet fork bridge. All the bridges except the pallet fork are made from untreated german silver. Every screw (about 35) in the watch were made by myself and blued individually. The gear train wheels are circular grained and plated with rose gold. I made the dial by hand from a single piece of brass which was sandblasted and coated with a black rhodium finish. All the hands were designed and made by me as well. The case body was from another watch I had, but had to be modified, and I had to make the caseback myself. The strap is made from hand stitched alligator. Hope you like it!

Nt

The watch looks great! You're off to a good start!

Thanks for sharing the fruit of your hard work with us! I hope to see more!

Keep up the good work!

Love the shape of those new bridges, the hand blued screws, the new click and the engraved balance cock. The new dial layout looks pretty good as well.

You've turned an everyday 'workhorse' into something much more beautiful. Thanks for sharing

Where do you plan to go from here ?

grumio

That's a great example of perseverance and effort. Well done.

nick

you have a gift and a passion, don t wast it !

respond to the msg that i sent you!

It must be extremely gratifying to be able to wear a watch you made yourself! You should be proud!

Hey everyone thanks for the kind words!

Just wanted to ask the people here a few questions, since I will hopefully be able offer my services to you guys someday soon.

Anyways, just wondering what people are looking for in independent watchmaking. Is it mostly the prestige of having a limited piece? Or are you looking for something actually unique in mechanisms? Or is it the quality of finishing? I suppose it is a slightly different answer for all of you, but maybe there are a few common answers....

Also I was trying to think of what kind of price is fair for a watch similar to mine. I would guess that it depends on how well known you are or if someone else well respected in the industry has recommended your work. I would like to make more of my watch at some point but don't have the set up/funds to do it right now. Just trying to et a feel for the industry and see what people are into and what you all consider to be "worthy" in the small world of independents!

I hope this didn't come off as advertising, cause I don't really have anything to sell. But feel free to let me know if I crossed any lines. And thanks for any of your opinions, they are much appreciated!!

Aaron

You should check out kickstarter and see if enough WISs will help fund with first edition purchases or something similar.

Hi Aaron,
thanks for the report on your beautiful watch, i wish i had your abilities.

You've already pointed out two important factors of AHCI watch collectors.
Limitation and difference to the Mainstream.
Using mechanical watches is not a logical decision, as cell phones can do that
If they wanted a "democratic" watch, they would buy lower quality watches or industrially produced ones.
If they wanted maximal finissage - as in getting as many patterns and techniques as possible on one plate - they would probably go to PP/AP/VC, for Innovation (as in the biggest R&D) they would go to JLC,
as the larger mechanical watchmakers can rely on the cooperation of a large work force.

AHCI work force is more limited, so they usually concentrate on a few complications with maximal finissage and a differing design (albeit exceptions on the last point exist).
In terms of pricing, i guess the easiest way to justify a higher price on a watch is to use a precious metal case (from Titanium +10% up to platinum with +100%), and minute repeaters soar in pricing compared to other complications, followed by Column Wheel Chronographs, Tourbillons (http://home.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-17/pi-4459603/ti-692273/s--35/), Perpetual Calendars and at last Alarms (although probably the most useful function).
For the highest pricing group (the Patek range), you will have to have unique innovations / contribute historically.

Since AHCI watch collectors want a watch from an independant, non-industrial sized watchmaker,
increasing the production numbers is not an advisable strategy.
Every parameter will have an influence on the numbers sold and the price achieved,
and probably even factors like living in switzerland wil affect your pricing (in this case positively).
In this forum, you can have an extensive look on the watches of your future competition and you'll get quite an overview. On pricing levels, google for chrono24.

Good luck and cheers,
M

For the great post. I was thinking the same thing. I'll be sure to do some more research...

Hey just thought I would add a few more close up photos of the back of my AMS1, and a few more dial shots... Enjoy!

Those inner bevels take a lot of patience (and a microscope!)

Hand engraved balance bridge

Bad lighting here, makes everything look pretty dirty...

There's a big dipper in the stars if you look for it... the one star is under the dial already though

Sandblasted

Very nice anglage...and I love that rachet click, did you design that yourself ?

Cheers,

Rob

I did. Just thought it would look way too much like the 6498 if I used the same click. Glad you like the watch!