Comments:
on the fixed fourth wheel of the tourbillon. It gives the mechanism a transparency that I find very attractive. This is something i have seen and admired in the Jean Daniel Nicolas two minute tourbillon that Mr. Daniel Roth makes (though with a two minute tourbillon, the fourth wheel is mounted to the mechanism and it is the third wheel that is fixed).
Bill
The Fabrication De Montres Normandes (FDMN) at the Salon Belles Montres
The FDMN has been founded by german watchmaker Karsten Frässdorf. It's a new Manufacture based in Brionne (France).
I already presented the work of FDMN here because Karsten Frässdorf developped the calibers used in Marc Brogsitter's watches.
But the Salon Belles Montres gave me the opportunity to discover Karsten's talent in another context: within his own brand.
I must confess, as a french guy, I'm very happy to handle watches which calibers have been created, developped and built in France. It's the reason why the dial is stamped with a proud "Fabriqué en France".
What is the philosophy of the FDMN ?
They are basically two main ideas :
- the first one is to design calibers which find again the aspects of the traditional watchmaking : slow frequency, big balance wheel, an architecture totally focussed into efficiency, reliability and accuracy.
- the second one is to pass down this "know-how", this experience to young watchmakers in order to perpetuate this specific way of making chronometric watches.
The current FDMN collection is based on 2 calibers in which you will find, of course, all the soul of this traditional watchmaking I explained before.
The first one, the 770 is a mere 3 hands caliber while the other one (the 781) features a tourbillon.
The 2 calibers have the same size (a diameter of 37mm), almost the same thickness (7mm for the simple one, 7,5mm for the tourbillon one), a huge balance wheel of 16mm et of course, a slow frequency (2,5hz).
The power reserve is around 2 days but without the use of a maltese cross, it would have been over 85 hours.
Please note that the young watchmakers will build their "apprentice watch" from the caliber 770.
The pictured watches hereafter are prototypes. So you may expect some changes in the finishings. But you will get a good idea of the final result.
The watch which features the caliber 770 is a simple 3 hands watch with a small second indicator at 6. The dial is made of silver and brass what gives a nice contrast with the steel hands.
Here comes the caliber 770. Of course, at first glance, you will notice its very specific architecture and the huge balance wheel. You find all the spirit of the old chronometrical calibers.
The steel case of the watch is big and thick. But it is totally in harmony with the caliber.
The watch is very comfortable to wear.
The watch which uses the caliber 781 has a PG case. The hands are also made of gold.
Hopefully, the purity of the dial is kept and you will notice the presence of the tourbillon only with the small indicator above the small second sub-dial. I really like this dial, the shades of light are very nice.
When we turn the watch, we discover the superb tourbillon. It represents almost the half part of the whole caliber!
Again, the watch is very comfortable and we wear it with a lot pleasure.
The beginning of 2009 will be very busy for Karsten ! These 2 watches will be released and FDMN will also participate at the "Concours International De Chronométrie" which is, of course, totally logical due to the Karsten's will to create traditional chronometers.
I would like to thank a lot Karsten for the time he spent with me. Of course, I will come back to you once I get more news from FDMN, about the final versions of the watches and the future projects.
Fr.Xavier
I already presented the work of FDMN here because Karsten Frässdorf developped the calibers used in Marc Brogsitter's watches.
But the Salon Belles Montres gave me the opportunity to discover Karsten's talent in another context: within his own brand.
I must confess, as a french guy, I'm very happy to handle watches which calibers have been created, developped and built in France. It's the reason why the dial is stamped with a proud "Fabriqué en France".
What is the philosophy of the FDMN ?
They are basically two main ideas :
- the first one is to design calibers which find again the aspects of the traditional watchmaking : slow frequency, big balance wheel, an architecture totally focussed into efficiency, reliability and accuracy.
- the second one is to pass down this "know-how", this experience to young watchmakers in order to perpetuate this specific way of making chronometric watches.
The current FDMN collection is based on 2 calibers in which you will find, of course, all the soul of this traditional watchmaking I explained before.
The first one, the 770 is a mere 3 hands caliber while the other one (the 781) features a tourbillon.
The 2 calibers have the same size (a diameter of 37mm), almost the same thickness (7mm for the simple one, 7,5mm for the tourbillon one), a huge balance wheel of 16mm et of course, a slow frequency (2,5hz).
The power reserve is around 2 days but without the use of a maltese cross, it would have been over 85 hours.
Please note that the young watchmakers will build their "apprentice watch" from the caliber 770.
The pictured watches hereafter are prototypes. So you may expect some changes in the finishings. But you will get a good idea of the final result.
The watch which features the caliber 770 is a simple 3 hands watch with a small second indicator at 6. The dial is made of silver and brass what gives a nice contrast with the steel hands.
Here comes the caliber 770. Of course, at first glance, you will notice its very specific architecture and the huge balance wheel. You find all the spirit of the old chronometrical calibers.
The steel case of the watch is big and thick. But it is totally in harmony with the caliber.
The watch is very comfortable to wear.
The watch which uses the caliber 781 has a PG case. The hands are also made of gold.
Hopefully, the purity of the dial is kept and you will notice the presence of the tourbillon only with the small indicator above the small second sub-dial. I really like this dial, the shades of light are very nice.
When we turn the watch, we discover the superb tourbillon. It represents almost the half part of the whole caliber!
Again, the watch is very comfortable and we wear it with a lot pleasure.
The beginning of 2009 will be very busy for Karsten ! These 2 watches will be released and FDMN will also participate at the "Concours International De Chronométrie" which is, of course, totally logical due to the Karsten's will to create traditional chronometers.
I would like to thank a lot Karsten for the time he spent with me. Of course, I will come back to you once I get more news from FDMN, about the final versions of the watches and the future projects.
Fr.Xavier
Pics from FDMN
In addition to my post, I would like to post some pics I received from FDMN.
The 3 hands watch:
The Tourbillon watch:
Fr.Xavier
The 3 hands watch:
The Tourbillon watch:
Fr.Xavier
Fascinating..
Just as the movements he made for Brogsitter, these are fascinating.
So totally differrent from so much that this new these days.
Nothing unnessecary, pure and elegant.
Thanks for the great post François Xavier
So totally differrent from so much that this new these days.
Nothing unnessecary, pure and elegant.
Thanks for the great post François Xavier
They're certainly starting off on a high note!
These are really nice. Thanks for sharing them!
Jeff
Jeff
pure class
FX - thanks for the post, these watches are beautiful on both sides! They look durable enough to last 5 lifetimes. The balance wheels are indeed big and beautiful at 16mm but that should come much easier when working with a 37mm movement. The lowered escape cocks & big ruby jewels on the barrels are also a nice touch. Certainly a throwback to 1940s-50s chronometric timekeeping in a very sterile way.
Wonderful!
have never seen that brand before
the numerals on the first one are very interesting and exotic.... the tourbillon is even more exotic looking.
I have try this watchs, the big balance wheel is totaly fascinating. But,
this watch have some default.
The move is too thick,; so the case are thick.
The dial are good as the movement.
But again, the move is great. When you see it, i have a feeling of deeper, like the Lange Datograph, the brutal style of the move, is nice and very impressive, this move fit perfectly in a Panerai.
The move is too thick,; so the case are thick.
The dial are good as the movement.
But again, the move is great. When you see it, i have a feeling of deeper, like the Lange Datograph, the brutal style of the move, is nice and very impressive, this move fit perfectly in a Panerai.
Not a bad idea...
Such caliber, with its powerful design, its "simple" architecture and its slow frequency would be perfect in an "historical" Panerai.
Fr.Xavier
Fr.Xavier
Very interesting! Thanks so much for sharing! [nt]
The large balance wheel looks incredible!
This message has been edited by Bonatto on 2008-12-14 18:01:32
This message has been edited by Bonatto on 2008-12-14 18:01:32
Very cool and handsome watches
Thanks for showing calling attention to this very promising upcoming brand, Francois-Xavier.
I like the whole concept and idea behind these watches. And I certain love the case, the dial design, and the movements. Well, I much prefer the numerals on the tourbillon - the font of the time-only numerals is a it mannered and not quite aesthetically pleasing IMO, but everything else is superb. It shall be interesting to see the finished result - without scratches and with more finish. But it is very very promising.
Sven
I like the whole concept and idea behind these watches. And I certain love the case, the dial design, and the movements. Well, I much prefer the numerals on the tourbillon - the font of the time-only numerals is a it mannered and not quite aesthetically pleasing IMO, but everything else is superb. It shall be interesting to see the finished result - without scratches and with more finish. But it is very very promising.
Sven
I love the inverting of the teeth....
on the fixed fourth wheel of the tourbillon. It gives the mechanism a transparency that I find very attractive. This is something i have seen and admired in the Jean Daniel Nicolas two minute tourbillon that Mr. Daniel Roth makes (though with a two minute tourbillon, the fourth wheel is mounted to the mechanism and it is the third wheel that is fixed).
Bill
A few to contribute
First the Marc Brogsitter, with movements by FDMN
Constant force escapement
tourbillon
Now the FDMN
Tourbillon
simple movement
in my eyes the massive barrel jewel balances the massive balance wheel, and make for a very distinctive look. I wasn't able to capture it very well, but the constant force is fantatstic to watch, reminding me of the DeWitt, but more restrained and elegant. I am very impressed by the work here, it's clear that they're trying to make a good 3 hand watch rather than diving in with a 100k heavy complication at 45mm, as seems to be the trend. I also find the educational side very comendible, repair techs are probably rarer than tourbillons these days
here's the DeWitt, for comparison
(sorry about the focus, that's the RdM that uses the blurry chain and worm gear)
A
Constant force escapement
tourbillon
Now the FDMN
Tourbillon
simple movement
in my eyes the massive barrel jewel balances the massive balance wheel, and make for a very distinctive look. I wasn't able to capture it very well, but the constant force is fantatstic to watch, reminding me of the DeWitt, but more restrained and elegant. I am very impressed by the work here, it's clear that they're trying to make a good 3 hand watch rather than diving in with a 100k heavy complication at 45mm, as seems to be the trend. I also find the educational side very comendible, repair techs are probably rarer than tourbillons these days
here's the DeWitt, for comparison
(sorry about the focus, that's the RdM that uses the blurry chain and worm gear)
A
Art Deco with an industrial movement
His dial fonts and process on the simple 770 reminds me of the art deco watches. His movement is very well thought out. I appreciate the use of the maltese cross to always keep sufficient power to support a chronometer grade movement. Shock protection on the escapement, guide pins on the finger bridges and a simple layout that will last a lifetime. Interesting how he secures the back cover on the lugs. No frills, just well made and bullerproof. I would love to know the accuracy he is able to achieve on the tourbillon.
Great post - Thanks
DaveB
does anybody know how to contact?
Does anybody know how to contact the company created that watches? I am seriously interested but I could not find any official website, mail address, or phone number and so on.