Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin opened up its Métiers d'Art "The master craftsmen of time" interactive watchmaking exhibition on Wed February 27, 2008 at Sotheby's in Beverly Hills.  I felt very lucky to be invited to this amazing exhibit, and I also had the opportunity to view the Masks Collection.

For those who are interested in viewing this exhibit, it is open to the general public on Wed February 27 through Saturday March 1, 2008 from 10am to 4pm at Sotheby's on 9665 Wilshire Blvd in Beverly Hills.  And in conjuction with this exhibition, the Vacheron "The Masks" collection and the original masks itself from the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva will be exhibited at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, Royal Suite and can be viewed by appointment by calling  (877) 862-7555.

The basic message of this exhibit is to spread the word of Vacheron's use of traditional watchmaking crafts such as enameling, guillochage, master-watchmaking, engraving, and decoration in both historic and modern watches.

I will do my best to take those who are unable to attend the exhibition on a virtual tour of this great exhibition.

Cheers,
Anthony

PS.  You may click on any of the pictures for a LARGER DETAILED picture

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Below are some wall decorations in the exhibition at Sotheby's.

 

And here are some general pictures of the exhibition hall

....more to come
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-03-01 13:16:59

I was there from 630-645ish.  Went back over to the hotel but the suite was completely empty.

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(Note:  descriptions are from the display case themselves) 

Patrimony Contemporaine Retrograde Day and Date - 18k Pink gold case, self-winding movement, day and Date with retrograde hands, sivered opaline dial, circular grained minute circle, 12 applied hours markers in 18k pink gold, caliber 2460 R31 R7, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 86020

Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding - 18k white gold case, self-winding movement, seconds at 9 o'clock, date window, silvered opaline background dial, applied gold numerals, caliber 2455, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 87172

Patrimony Extra Slim - 18k white gold case, manual winding movement, sapphire caseback, caliber 1003, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 33093

250th Anniversary Collection - Tour de I'lle - 18k pink gold case, manual winding movement, minute repeater, tourbillon, power reserve, second timezone, moonphase, striking-mechanism torque, perpetual calendar, equation of time, power reserve, caliber 2750, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 80250

Vacheron's Tour de I'lle is the most complicated wristwatch ever produced in series; and if I remember correctly, costs over US $1 Million+!  I regret not asking to see if someone could take the watch out so I can strap it to my wrist   and I would have loved to hear the minute repeater in action.  I'm pretty sure the answer would have been no but I should have at least tried.  You never know right?

The last time I saw this watch was at the 250th year VC Exhibition many years ago at Tourneau's flagship store in NYC, and I was drooling over this VC.  I currently don't own any VC's and I hope someday the Tour de I'lle will be my first VC   **bonks self in order to wake up and stop dreaming and drooling**

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-27 22:17:45

Here's master watchmaker Mikael Conus assembling a tourbillon.  At the age of 14, he began watchmaking school and finished at 18 yrs old; and since then, has been in the watchmaker profession for 10 years already.  You wouldn't know he's already been doing watchmaking for over 10 years because he still looks so young!

Look at those steady hands!

And here are a couple more random shots of Mikael in action and movement parts on his workbench.

Did you know it takes Mikael approximately 3 hours to disassemble and reassemble a tourbillon, assuming there are no problems such as timing, etc.? 

Here's a brief clip of Mikael working on a tourbillon movement

 
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 09:45:15

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Métiers d'Art - Tribute to Great Explorers - Gentleman's 18k yellow gold wristwatch, self-winding movement, 22k gold dial, grand feu enameled dial representing the route of the grand explorer Zeng He, first Chinese admiral, who discovered the shore of the indian ocean (Ming Dynasty), caliber 1126AT
Ref: 47080

Métiers d'Art - Audubon - Gentleman's 18k yellow gold wristwatch, self-winding movement, dial in cloisonne enamel representing a long-billed curlew inspired by a John James Audubon painting, caliber 1120, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 43060

Métiers d'Art - Cabinotiers - Gentleman's pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, manual winding movement, the back bears an Geneva-enameled miniature of a typical watchmaker's cabinotier in 1755, caliber 1701
Ref: 57120

Here's a picture of the back

Métiers d'Art - 250th Anniversary Collection - Métiers d'Art - Four Seaons - Set of four timepieces in yellow, white, pink gold and platinum, self-winding movement, hours and minutes by sliding disks, day and date by semi-jumping disks, grand feu enamel dial combining miniature, champleve and translucent techniques, hand-engraved dial, each enamel dial matches the colours of a season, caliber 2460G4, limited edition of 12 gift boxes
Ref: 86010

1902 - Pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, case back, middle and bezel with cloisonne enamel, black and blue decor entwined with acanthus leaves motif, small second at 6 o'clock.  Golden dial with guilloche center, second counter guilloche and engraved. "Pear" type hands in blued steel
Ref: 10791

1831 - Pocket watch "Lepine" type, 18k yellow gold, case back, bezel and middle decorated in champleve enamel with floral motif.  Dial in silver, excentred hours circle, guilloche center and surround.  "Breguet" type hands in gold
Ref: 10455

1905 - Pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, case back decor in cloisonne enamel on black back representing thistles.  Two tone silvered dial, guilloche at centre.  "Breguet" type hands in blued steel.  Watch presented at the International Exhibition in Milan in 1906
Ref: 10655

1953 - Gentleman's wristwatch, 18k yellow gold case, dial with seconds at center.  Cloisonne enamel dial representing a mermaid, with 4 triangular indexes and 8 applied nails.  "Baton" hands in gold
Ref: 10149

1923 - Pocket watch in yellow gold, caseback with enamel motif representing a bird.  Dial in Chinese lacquer, fancy arabic figures.  "Louis XV" type hands
Ref 10222

Ball for the cemented parts rest

Porcelain palette for the preparation of the colours

Block for the cemented parts rest

Tubes for enamel powder

Small box cases for enamel powder

Paint brushes




This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 08:55:09

Here's me on the right looking through the microscope watching master enameler Jean Genbrugge apply some blue enamel on a dial.  He's been an enameler for 30 years.  On the very left is Lucie Misselyn who is still learning enameling for 1.5 years, and both Jean and Lucie are from Belgium. 

My hand are trembling!  I'm not used to the hand coordination in conjunction with viewing through the microscope

It took me a little while to get used to the hand coordination, and it was a blast applying some blue enamel to the dial!

This is me here again!  I'm glad I trimmed my fingernails for this picture couple days ago, and doesn't it look like I'm a natural enameler prodigy?   My hands looks in perfect position as if I've been doing this for 30 years like Jean!

Each dial is baked in the oven 36 times at a temperature of 700-800 degrees Celcius, and the dial is in the oven each time for around 20-30 seconds.  Jean and Lucie say they can make around 3 dials a month with 5 people on the team - 1 engraver, 1 polisher, and 3 enamelers.  And each year, approximately 10 dials don't make it to the final baking.

See how small this paint brush is in relation to the penny coin?

This brush is even smaller!  This one is used for the black tracing and font writing on the dial.

Here's a jar containing blue enamel which needs to be ground up and then mixed with some type of fluid (I forgot to ask if the mixed clear fluid was water or some special liquid).

Here are a couple more brushes.




This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 09:46:14

I reason why I ask is because I was informed that Lucie has passed away due to her long illness.

Regards

Ling

Malte Openworked Tourbillon - Pink gold case, manual winding openworked movement, tourbillon, power reserve indicator, caliber 1790SQ
Ref: 30067

Beautiful watch isn't it?

Malte Openworked - 18k yellow gold case, openworked self-winding movement, caliber 1120SQ, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 43080

1906 - Pocket watch "Lepine" type, 18k yellow gold, surround and centre of caseback chiseled with a floral motif separated by a green enameled ring on guilloche decor.  Bezel circled by thin white enamel.  Silvered dial with central guilloche zone.  "Breguett" type hands in gold
Ref: 10471

1910 - Pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, engraved and enameled monogram on guilloche caseback.  Enamel dial.  "Pear" type hands
Ref: 11269

1920 - Pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, decor chiseled in applique on bezel topped by 32 caliberd sapphires, case back engraved with a monogram.  Gold dial with engraved decoration between the centre and 12 o'clock.  "Cathedral" type hands
Ref: 10274

1850 - Pocket watch, double case in yellow gold, entirely engraved with motif of acanthus leaves setting-off a polished coat of arms.  "Breguet" type hands
Ref: 10721

1984 - Gentleman's wristwatch in 18k yellow gold, squre case with rounded angles, engraved arabesque decor on casing circle, entirely engraved ultra-thin skeleton movement, "baton" type hands
Ref: 10339

1990 - Gentleman's wristwatch in 18k yellow gold, case with 16 faces, skeletonized and engraved self-winding movement, sapphire cabachon crown, "baton" type hands
Ref: 10745

1923 - Pocket watch, decorated bezel, enamel painting on the caseback representing "Les Berges d'Arcadie" after a painting by Nicolas Poussin, double back cover engraved representing a pastoral symphony scene.  Engine-turned movement, barrel-bar engraved with two angels.  Enamel dial
Ref: 10659

Métiers d'Art - Cabinotiers Openworked Minute-Repeater - Platinum case, skeleton manual winding movement, thinnest minute repeater on record, caliber 1755, limited edition
Ref: 30030

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-27 23:49:29

Sems that you had a big time, and that you saw some marvellous pieces...
Now, I know where to complain if I have an issue with my enamel dial! LOL
Best.
nicolas

I think I might have crossed over the line with some of the blue enamel paint on that dial

Cheers,
Anthony

Here's master engraver Jeanne Ulrich who has been engraving for 7 years, and she says it takes around a week to engrave an entire movement.

Here's a monogram engraving.

Here's a video clip of Jeanne in action!

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 08:49:32

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250th Anniversary Collection - Jubile 1755 - Case in yellow, white, pink gold and platinum, self-winding movement, dial with 250th anniversary guilloche pattern, 18k gold roman numerals and appliques, power reserve indicator, caliber 2475, limited edition, hallmark of Geneva
Ref: 85250

Malte Chronograph - 18k pink gold case, manual winding movement, chronograph with two counters, silvered guilloche dial, applies gold numerals, caliber 1141
Ref: 47120

Malte Tonneau Chronograph - 18k pink gold case, self-winding movement, chronograph with two counters, silvered guilloche dial and applied gold numerals, large date display, caliber 1137
Ref: 49145

Malte Perpetual Calendar Minute-Repeater - 18k pink gold case, manual winding movement, silvered guilloche dial and applied gold numerals, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar, caliber 1755, limited edition
Ref: 30040

1816 - Pocket watch in yellow gold, quarter repeater and music, dial with 12 Arabic numerals into circles, signed Vacheron Chossat & Cie
Ref: 10207

1827 - Pocket watch "Empire" in 18k pink gold, quarter repeater, polished case back and guilloche middle.  Gold dial in three parts, hour circle with applied figures, guilloche centre with floral motif chiseled in applique.  "Cathedral" type hands
Ref: 10828

1910 - Lady's jewellery pendant-watch in gold and platinum with enamel dial on a guilloche decor
Ref: 10184

Engine-turned cam

Engine-turning models on dial and covers

Drawings booklet of engine-turning models

1917 - Pocket watch, duo face, casein 18k yellow gold, full astronomical moonphase on bridge side.  Enamel dial, "Breguet" type hands in gold
Ref: 10937

1943 - Pocket watch in 18k yellow gold, white enamel dial with 11 Arabic numerals, external minute-circle, small second at 6 o'clock, "Breguet" hands of blued steel.  German silver movement, Guillaume bimetallic balance.  Tourbillon.  First class bulletin from the "Observatoire Astronomique de Geneve"
Ref: 10811

1901 - Hunter pocket watch, 18k pink gold case in 6 parts, minute repeater, single chronograph and astronomical perpetual calendar.  Dial in enamel.  "Pear" type hands in blued steel.

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 00:12:22

Master guillocheur Supachai Wattanakanokthan demonstrates how to use the guilloche turning machine, and he's been guilloche'ing for 16 years!  I noticed that his name sewed onto his white lab coat only had part of his last name, and he chuckled that his Thai name is so long that the space where his name is sewed onto his white lab coat is too short.  Just something silly I remembered :P

With your right hand, you push in to move the blade inward to the dial, and with your left hand, you turn a wheel (sorry not pictured) to make the blade move upwards on the dial to form the guilloche pattern.  

Once you finish guilloche'ing that line, you then have to adjust the 2 knobs circled in red to proceed to the next line, and you have to remember how many turns on each knob because they decrease and increase at a different set interval each time, so if you forget which interval you're at, you have to start over!  (I hope I am describing this correctly!)

Look I can guilloche without looking at the dial? :P  (just joking of course!)

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 09:17:30

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These 4 masks of the Métiers d'Art - Les Masques belong to a private collection at the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva and highlights Vacheron's dedication to the art of engraving in watchmaking.  25 sets of these 4 mask watches will be made, and you must buy all 4 in a set with a retail price of around USD$400k.  Cases are in yellow, white, pink gold, and platinum, and each mask is a hand engraved gold mask.  The 4 masks each represent a mask typical of a different region on the globe - China, Alaska, Congo, and Indonesia.

Alaskan frontal mask - this one is my favorite because it's very Voodoo-like

Indonesian theatre mask

Chinese death mask - this mask was the most difficult of the 4 to create because of the look of oxidation on the gold.  Gold doesn't oxide, so Vacheron had to use some alchemy to get the gold to look like it oxidized to match the actual mask.

Congolese face mask

Masks at different stages to show you the evolution from beginning to end

Here's a video clip of all 4 masks.  Sorry for the window glare

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-28 08:31:00

I can't imagine wearing one or anyone wanting to wear one.  Am I missing something?  Is there some culture in the world where this makes more sense?

No  -  not our Art (Dr No) but for the sake of art.

The celebration of the Arts & Crafts could be a driver like people who buy watches with dragon mokugane, lacquered or engraved dials. In this VC range, the decoration is brought forward as a shield/mask to highlight the art but also, and even greater watchmaking art to make the orbiting mechanism behind the mask that tells time.

I must admit that 2 ladies I asked, separately but spookily congruently, commented that they are freaked out by masks in general, and would never have a watch from this range ! 

Maybe it's a girly thing?

Regards,

MTF

The reasons some people buy these mask watches are the same reasons people buy elaborately enameled pieces. Think of it as a piece of painting that you can gaze at constantly on your wrist.

Jon

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You've given me enough excellent pictures that I can change the masthead weekly for a long time to come!

Thanks,


Bill

. . . well past my bedtime, and I'm scrolling up and down this post like a kid who's just discovered a fascinating book . . . thanks, Anthony, for reporting of an event that I would've made time for if I'd known all of what was on display in advance . . . cordially, Art

so you can still go if you want to see the exhibition.

See you later today! 

- Anthony

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-02-29 07:58:52

e

Great photos and reporting.
VC has some very talented people there and some of the examples you showed were really extraordinary!
Thanks again,
Joseph

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I am currently on assignment in Everett Wa, but Marcia and my daughter, Anna, attended

her comments

You really missed something. The evening was incredible. The displays at Sotheby's and the Beverly Wilshire Hotel were a mix of gorgeous watches and displays of old items used for watch making. There were also display kiosks where people were demonstrating  precision devices for hand producing watches and decorating them as well as answering questions. Each station had it's own camera and the work was displayed on a monitor so you could really see what was going on. At the Wishire Presidential Suite they had demonstrations of working with gold to produce tiny masks that were then incorporated into multidialed watches. My favorite watches were the skeletonized ones. Maybe we could trade our house in for one.

At the end of the evening they presented us with catalogues and a book which are also works of art. This event rated with the very best of events/receptions that we have attended. I am so sorry you weren't here. The exhibition will be in Beverly Hills through this weekend and the next time it will be on display is for the April show in Geneva.

Steve Schechter

For  the great report, i saw the serie Les Masques last year in Paris, all 4 of them, and i really love them, probably the best art work on watches in many years of what i have seem .

Cheers,


Michel