Ulysse Nardin

Hi all

I am seeking to find out more regarding Ulysse Nardin. The pre 1965 models.

Did they make the movement by them self back then? All or some?

Why is it so ard to find a Ulysse Nardin watch? Did theyhave a low production? Or, are they so good, nice, that the owner like to keep them..find that hard to belive when looking at the large number of Rolex, omega, zenith and so that are for sale.

Hope so can help me, or show me to some sites that may.

Thanks

Vegard

the largest problem certainly is that we do not have a good reference book on vintage pieces from Ulysse Nardin. As a result of the company's turbulent days before Mr. Schnyder took over the helm, a lot or archival references have been lost, but most of all, many old pieces from the company's own collection have been sold, or simply stolen. Only partially, Mr. Schnyder succeeded in tracking them down on auction, and to build up a small, but fine collection of old UN timepieces.

Regarding wristwatches, it can be stated that Ulysse Nardin followed the example of most other watch brands, by purchsing movements from specific movement manufacturers. A. Schild, ETA, Venus, Lémania, to name but a few. The main focus on UN's own manufacturing had been on pocket watch movements, however, there were some wristwatch movements as well.

One of the difficulties for future UN collectors also is the fact that UN had founded an American subsidiary, the Ulysse Nardin Chronometer Corporation, which was responsilbe for the US market. Due to the American tax legislation of the Fifties and Sixties, only the movements were imported from Switzerland, and placed into American-made cases. Contrary to the term "Chronometer", contained in the company's name, these watches were as close to veritably tested chronometers as I am to becoming an astronaut. The movements used in these watches were rather simple, as were the cases. The good stuff was still completely assembled in Le Locle, and then exported as a complete watch. That these orignally inexpensive watches are reaching substantially high prices at auction sites today, is mostly tributed to the good name the company has today, but only in rare cases justified by the vintage watch itself.

Really fine were the chronographs, which were always assembled in Switzerland. Often, these were own movements, or sometimes fine-tuned supplied movements. they are very collectible today, a fact well known to the counterfeiters, unfortunately. therefore, most watches of this type that are offered at certina auction sites are marriages, where a possibly original UN dial is used to make an authentic impression, while a cheap movement is put into a cheaply produced case, mostly produced new, but with a worn vintage look. Often, even chronograph bridges with the UN brandname stamped into them, are mounted on the movement. These watches are worth nothing at all.

Regards,
Marcus

Hi

Sorry for my late reply

Thank you for the information.

Is there a web link to more vintage UN information?
I love to find a vintage UN pocket waych and also one from the 40/50´s.

Cheers
Vegard_dino

Marcus captured most of what you need to know in his post.

Most vintage UN watches use OEM movements.  There were generally 3 assembly points - Le Locle, New York and Buenos Aires.  Vintage UNs from the 40s-60s are reliable and attractive, but are certainly not noteworthy.  But they can often be found on the used market for under $1,000 in good shape, and they are not expensive to have a full UN overhaul.  I think I paid about 600 CHF about 4 years ago.

A high proportion of such vintage UNs are not fully original.  Most frequently, the dial is completely redone.  Often there is a different, non-original movement.  And it is very frequent to see non-UN replacement crowns.  (The latter UN can replace at overhaul for a low price.)  With an overhaul you also get a nice paper telling you the provenence of your watch, including the source of the movement.

Marcus' post tells you how to mark a vintage UN as having been made in New York.

The best way to familiarize yourself with what's available is to browse eBay.  You will see that the diversity of vintage UNs is indeed scary.  There are few great deals and many "created" watches that bear little resemblance to an actual UN.  Indeed, I would estimate that an unknowledgeable buyer hoping for a great deal on a vintage UN on eBay has about a 90% chance of disappointment.

Because of the economy, there are many excellent vintage UNs coming from dealers in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.  (BA is a wonderful place to shop for all sorts of vintage watches, and when I was last there several shops had 3-4 UNs for sale.)

Please note that I am not advocating making a purchase from eBay, which is a bit like skydiving with a parachute packed by a trained monkey.  However, it is a resource with many pictures of what's being sold.

Having rambled a bit, let me say that my 1956 18kt vintage UN is the watch I wear most frequently.  It looks great, the size and feel is perfect, and I am not overly worried about it getting stolen or broken.  Plus I really like the look of simple gold watches.