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Ulysse Nardin

 

Thanks.

 
 By: M4 : August 27th, 2017-03:48
Just a side note . . . I've seen the Executive Tourbillion in person and it's darn nice. I liked it much more in person than I ever imagined.
Looking forward to your photos when the day comes.
M4

Pulled the trigger...

 
 By: Eddie1 : September 14th, 2017-06:52
...and picked up the Quantieme Annuel Grand Feu chronograph. I will have to save the Tourbillon Grand Feu, or maybe the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon, for the next UN purchase.  But, very happy with the chronograph. The Grand Feu enamel dial is really something different. Obviously, having heat-blued steel hands, the blue print on the dial works very well with the hands, and the red month marker and date are indeed wonderful little accents (as mentioned by a reviewer's article posted on watchcollectinglifestyle.com), and the classical style of the seconds and chronograph minute counter hands (I don't know if there is a specific name for it, but the hand with a kind of counterbalance extension opposite to the indication point of the hand - sorry, limited knowledge of watches here) fits really well with the whole design and layout of the dial.

The presence of a date window here is less "obvious" compared to the non-grand feu dial annual chronograph given the absence of the 12-hour chronograph counter.  Noticeably unique is the inset of the minutes' railroad (in finer lines comparatively to other dials) with the triangles at the indices "outset" from the railroad.  It's the first I have dial I have seen from UN Marine watch being presented in this manner, but then, I may not have seen enough UN marine watches in my life (yet).  But, I do wish I could watch the tourbillon movement ticking away.....  smile  I can understand why you love that Grand Feu Tourbillon piece that you have.  Well, generally speaking, hard not to love a UN watch once you've known it.

Thanks again for your posts.


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Many congrats

 
 By: russell996 : September 14th, 2017-11:49
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Big Congrats! [nt]

 
 By: M4 : September 16th, 2017-04:03
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Thanks russell 996 and M4. [nt]

 
 By: Eddie1 : September 16th, 2017-05:30
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Is the logo change really significant or just a marketing decision? [nt]

 
 By: Ronald Held : August 27th, 2017-08:25
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Is the logo change really significant or just a marketing decision? (nt)

 
 By: Ronald Held : August 27th, 2017-08:26
NT 
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Not just a marketing decision as I understand it

 
 By: Eddie1 : September 14th, 2017-07:17
The logo change seems to have started when Kering acquired UN, and is reflective of the change in strategy and philosophy intended for the future. 

Perhaps the movement of the CEOs, mentioned in a different thread, is also a reflection of this development. I am better acquainted with other types of businesses than the luxury watch segment, so hard to see what the changes are/will be, but one thing I do pick up is the number new/re-issued watches released first in steel only. Again, perhaps I have not seen enough UN watches, but from the time I have been acquainted with this brand, it was normal to see UN watches coming out in rose gold, white gold, platinum, etc. before the steel version followed.  Perhaps that is a reflection of the general luxury mechanical watch market in that the precious metals/materiel were/are pricing the watches out of reach of too many segments of market. 

Interestingly, for example, besides being released in steel only so far, the latest GMT perpetual dual time, the classic dual time, Marine Torpilleur do not have luminescent material on the hands. I am not sure if that is due to an operational efficiency/cost reason - I think those better acquainted with watches and their production thereof will have a better idea.  At the end of the day, UN is a business, and like any business, it has to not just survive, but continue to grow in line with its market. I admire the guys who do the strategy and planning in the luxury goods area; human nature is as fickle as the weather and luxury "desires" that have sustained for eons may no longer be that way in the future (e.g. smartwatches, millenials).

Anyway, the speculative future is discussed at the other thread re the CEO change. For now, I am just enjoying the ones I have - and just acquired - and looking forward to more from UN, even with a straight anchor being used to steady the ship. smile

Thanks for your posts.
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Thanks for the long discussion, Eddie. (nt)

 
 By: Ronald Held : September 14th, 2017-13:27
NT
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The lack of luminous material is certainly not a cost decision ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : September 15th, 2017-04:43
... but a decision for and against a specific style. The Torpilleur hands follows the classic standard of marine chronometers and deck watches. while the hands with luminous material have been designed by Raimondo Brenni and where a signature design element when the first UN marine chronometer wirstiwatch was released for the 150th anniversary.
Marcus
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Luminous hands were not introduced for the 150th Marine Chronometer.

 
 By: russell996 : September 15th, 2017-09:32
Hands are blued steel.

















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Possibly luminous hands came in with the series production piece in SS and with square date window? [nt]

 
 By: russell996 : September 15th, 2017-09:34
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You are correct, of course. Sorry for the confucion. Here is Brenni's original design study ..

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : September 15th, 2017-12:02
... for the new (unlimited) Marine Chronometer:


Marcus

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Thanks for your insights, Marcus and Russell. Very much appreciated, and Marcus, FYI, your 2003 article was the reason I ended up buying...

 
 By: Eddie1 : September 16th, 2017-05:35
...my first UN, which was a Maxi Marine chronometer. And your later article (2004, I think?) in 3 parts on the GMT perpetual... smile Thanks again.
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Thank you kindly for your compliments! [nt]

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : September 17th, 2017-13:13
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