Comments:
Thank you, Fx. I also note a disconnect between the aggressive and very cool nature of the new Excalibur marketing website and the softened nature of the watch. The new marketing would be a perfect fit for the original style Excalibur. I don't mean to be negative, I gave a deep emotional connection with this brand and am not connecting with the new direction.
My view on the Excalibur 42mm automatic
The Excalibur collection has been without any doubt for many years the most representative of the baroque and bold style of Roger Dubuis. The 45mm diameter case characterized by the fluted bezel, the crown protectors and the triple lugs are the perfectly suited host to welcome the most extravagant and the most technically achieved movements from the Manufacture. An Excalibur watch is recognized at the first glance, combining power and refinement in an atmosphere of exuberance.
Stainless Steel & Grey dial version:
If some clients are still attracted by the beauty of the movements of the collection, nobody can deny that the market has evolved. The general climate related to the crisis, if it has not slowed down the sales of the high horology segment, has however led to a return of demand towards more conventional and less ostentatious pieces. At the same time, the centre of gravity of the market has shifted to China. And Chinese customers look for watches with smaller case diameters, better suited to their wrists than the bulky cases of the 2000s.
PG & silver dial version:
Taking into account this observation and in the contexct of the redesign of its catalogue, Roger Dubuis created an event at the 2012 SIHH with the presentation of the 42mm version of the Excalibur. To be honest, I was personally very surprised by this choice because in my head, it was the Monegasque collection, unveiled the previous year which was intended to represent the classical offer and the entry level of Roger Dubuis through its stainless steel models, the Excalibur collection remaining in a more exclusive dimension in terms of design and movement. I was wrong because the 42mm automatic Excalibur plays several cards at the same time, not hesitating to encroach on the Monegasque teritory while keeping some characteristics of the Excalibur.
The beauty of the silver dial:
The Excalibur 42mm automatic is available in 4 versions: rose gold or stainless steel, sunburst satin-finish dial on grey or silver background. It doesn't forget its origins since the case can be analyse as a quieter version of the traditional Excalibur case. As the name of the watch says it, it loses 3mm which is a notable difference. The fluted bezel is less marked and the usual crown protectors have disappeared. On the other hand, the triple horns are still very present and are the most obvious connection with the Excalibur 45mm. Designers have done an excellent work on this case because they have obtained a kind of balance between the inspiration of the original Excalibur and the pursuit of classic and slender lines. It is elegant with a touch of originality.
The crown protectors were removed:
The dial is also faithful to the collection with its stretched Roman numerals that occupy a very large part of the surface. As always, the XII is more "packed" to allow the writting of the brand name. If I compare this dial with the Excalibur 45mm one, I also observe some changes. The flange becomes extremely discreet, with very slight elevation from the main part of the dial. The figures of the second hand subdial have been removed to get the purest design. The shape of the hands is identical and reinforces the identity of the watch.
The Excalibur 42mm automatic has another common point with its older sister and unfortunately it is a detail that I less appreciate. It's the position of the sub-dial much too close to the centre of the watch. The bases of the hands "overlap" it a bit. Of course, in the context of a 3 hands watch, it is a less serious problem than with a chronograph and moreover, the sub-dial is located at 9 o'clock. But I find that the dial would have gained a better balance with a sub-dial position closer to the bezel. The quick fix doesn't exist except of course to reduce the case size. It is the movement that controls the positioning of the hands and with a 42 mm case, the trouble could not be avoided.
PG & grey dial version:
Precisely, time is coming to speak about the movement because it is the keystone of the strategy of Roger Dubuis around the Excalibur 42mm. To control the sale price, especially of the stainless steel version, Roger Dubuis has used for this watch a movement with manufacturing costs lower than those of the RD77. This does not mean that the RD620 is "marked down" movement. Is is the contrary. Its architecture is also noticeable with its micro-rotor and the lovely bridges shapes. Only the presentation of the regulating organ is a bit disappointing when compared with the RD77. Its thickness is slightly higher (4, 5mm vs 4mm). The good news are that the overall performance is as good (4 hz frequency) if not better in some respects (a 52 hours power reserve against 42 hours for the RD77). The quality of the work and of the finishings remains as the Geneva seal certifies it. Finishings are sober and flawless. However, I would have liked a micro-rotor with a more advantageous presentation, the concentration of the inscriptions on the oscillating mass doesn't improve the perceived quality.
The RD620:
One of the strengths of the Excalibur 42mm automatic is its comfort. The lugs are curved and perfectly put the watch on the wrist. It is when the watch is worn that we can the most appreciate the sunburst satin finish of the dial because it easily captures the light and creates beautiful shades in its silver background version. The grey background is more subtle, more discrete. Figures seem to fade into the dial up to almost disappear. The choice between the two colours of dial is important because aesthetically, they cause very different perceptions. I have here a preference for the silver background, more dynamic and that more emphasizes the design of Roman numerals.
Stainless steel version on the wrist:
And the PG one with the same dial:
With the Excalibur 42mm automatic, Roger Dubuis wished to introduce a 3 hands watch with an adjusted price while keeping the main assets of the brand: automatic movement with micro-rotor, a case with a touch of originality, a dial with characteristic figures. Despite a few defects such as the position of the sub-dial, the overall balance of this Excalibur 42mm automatic is very positive because the horological contents remain strong for a very attractive price in the stainless steel version, without forgetting the Geneva seal and the COSC! With the Monegasque automatic stainless steel, it is the most economical and reasonable way to enter the Roger Dubuis universe. As such, this watch will fulfill the expectations of clients who look for a solid work from a Manufacture at an "affordable price" and who wish to avoid absolute classicism. I can only praise the approach of Roger Dubuis which proposes two different stainless steel watches dedicated to the entry level in its catalogue and which respect the quality criterias of the Manufacture.
Thanks to the Roger Dubuis team for its warm welcome during the 2012 SIHH.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-09-15 12:47:44
Stainless Steel & Grey dial version:
If some clients are still attracted by the beauty of the movements of the collection, nobody can deny that the market has evolved. The general climate related to the crisis, if it has not slowed down the sales of the high horology segment, has however led to a return of demand towards more conventional and less ostentatious pieces. At the same time, the centre of gravity of the market has shifted to China. And Chinese customers look for watches with smaller case diameters, better suited to their wrists than the bulky cases of the 2000s.
PG & silver dial version:
Taking into account this observation and in the contexct of the redesign of its catalogue, Roger Dubuis created an event at the 2012 SIHH with the presentation of the 42mm version of the Excalibur. To be honest, I was personally very surprised by this choice because in my head, it was the Monegasque collection, unveiled the previous year which was intended to represent the classical offer and the entry level of Roger Dubuis through its stainless steel models, the Excalibur collection remaining in a more exclusive dimension in terms of design and movement. I was wrong because the 42mm automatic Excalibur plays several cards at the same time, not hesitating to encroach on the Monegasque teritory while keeping some characteristics of the Excalibur.
The beauty of the silver dial:
The Excalibur 42mm automatic is available in 4 versions: rose gold or stainless steel, sunburst satin-finish dial on grey or silver background. It doesn't forget its origins since the case can be analyse as a quieter version of the traditional Excalibur case. As the name of the watch says it, it loses 3mm which is a notable difference. The fluted bezel is less marked and the usual crown protectors have disappeared. On the other hand, the triple horns are still very present and are the most obvious connection with the Excalibur 45mm. Designers have done an excellent work on this case because they have obtained a kind of balance between the inspiration of the original Excalibur and the pursuit of classic and slender lines. It is elegant with a touch of originality.
The crown protectors were removed:
The dial is also faithful to the collection with its stretched Roman numerals that occupy a very large part of the surface. As always, the XII is more "packed" to allow the writting of the brand name. If I compare this dial with the Excalibur 45mm one, I also observe some changes. The flange becomes extremely discreet, with very slight elevation from the main part of the dial. The figures of the second hand subdial have been removed to get the purest design. The shape of the hands is identical and reinforces the identity of the watch.
The Excalibur 42mm automatic has another common point with its older sister and unfortunately it is a detail that I less appreciate. It's the position of the sub-dial much too close to the centre of the watch. The bases of the hands "overlap" it a bit. Of course, in the context of a 3 hands watch, it is a less serious problem than with a chronograph and moreover, the sub-dial is located at 9 o'clock. But I find that the dial would have gained a better balance with a sub-dial position closer to the bezel. The quick fix doesn't exist except of course to reduce the case size. It is the movement that controls the positioning of the hands and with a 42 mm case, the trouble could not be avoided.
PG & grey dial version:
Precisely, time is coming to speak about the movement because it is the keystone of the strategy of Roger Dubuis around the Excalibur 42mm. To control the sale price, especially of the stainless steel version, Roger Dubuis has used for this watch a movement with manufacturing costs lower than those of the RD77. This does not mean that the RD620 is "marked down" movement. Is is the contrary. Its architecture is also noticeable with its micro-rotor and the lovely bridges shapes. Only the presentation of the regulating organ is a bit disappointing when compared with the RD77. Its thickness is slightly higher (4, 5mm vs 4mm). The good news are that the overall performance is as good (4 hz frequency) if not better in some respects (a 52 hours power reserve against 42 hours for the RD77). The quality of the work and of the finishings remains as the Geneva seal certifies it. Finishings are sober and flawless. However, I would have liked a micro-rotor with a more advantageous presentation, the concentration of the inscriptions on the oscillating mass doesn't improve the perceived quality.
The RD620:
One of the strengths of the Excalibur 42mm automatic is its comfort. The lugs are curved and perfectly put the watch on the wrist. It is when the watch is worn that we can the most appreciate the sunburst satin finish of the dial because it easily captures the light and creates beautiful shades in its silver background version. The grey background is more subtle, more discrete. Figures seem to fade into the dial up to almost disappear. The choice between the two colours of dial is important because aesthetically, they cause very different perceptions. I have here a preference for the silver background, more dynamic and that more emphasizes the design of Roman numerals.
Stainless steel version on the wrist:
And the PG one with the same dial:
With the Excalibur 42mm automatic, Roger Dubuis wished to introduce a 3 hands watch with an adjusted price while keeping the main assets of the brand: automatic movement with micro-rotor, a case with a touch of originality, a dial with characteristic figures. Despite a few defects such as the position of the sub-dial, the overall balance of this Excalibur 42mm automatic is very positive because the horological contents remain strong for a very attractive price in the stainless steel version, without forgetting the Geneva seal and the COSC! With the Monegasque automatic stainless steel, it is the most economical and reasonable way to enter the Roger Dubuis universe. As such, this watch will fulfill the expectations of clients who look for a solid work from a Manufacture at an "affordable price" and who wish to avoid absolute classicism. I can only praise the approach of Roger Dubuis which proposes two different stainless steel watches dedicated to the entry level in its catalogue and which respect the quality criterias of the Manufacture.
Thanks to the Roger Dubuis team for its warm welcome during the 2012 SIHH.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-09-15 12:47:44
Thanks for the review Fr.Xavier. My favorite dial is the silver
because I like the contrast between the silver dial and the black numerals. I find the slate dial version too monochromic for my taste.
I'll have to go visit a Roger Dubuis AD to see how this smaller 42mm Excalibur fits on the wrist, and I hope Roger Dubuis continues to make more 42mm Excalibur variants and even house their tourbillons (single and double) in this new smaller case.
The original 45mm Excalibur Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater has always been one of the Roger Dubuis' most sexy watches ever made, IMO of course, and it would be great if we can now get a smaller 42mm version. Time will only tell I guess!
Cheers,
Anthony
Thanks Anthony!
Yes it could be a good idea to see complicated Excaliber 42mm. The question is: what would be the position of this line when compared with the Monegasque?
I think that a "classic" PC like you show it would be perfect. But the skeletonized movements, the complicated Tourbillons and so on are better housed in the larger case IMHO.
Thanks for your comments!
Fx
I think that a "classic" PC like you show it would be perfect. But the skeletonized movements, the complicated Tourbillons and so on are better housed in the larger case IMHO.
Thanks for your comments!
Fx
Thanks but...
Thanks for the fantastic review and photos. The Excalibur collection was by far my favorite watch series by any manufacturer. However, I do not like the new style ex42. It simply lacks the soul and power of the original --it looks off and very flat to my eye. Whereas the original possessed depth and character,with a wide space between the crystal and the dial-- the new style is blasé and flat. The old ex 42 conveyed power and strength due to the number shapes and concentric circles. Now, the watch appears feminized, almost neutered in appearance. What attracted me initially to Roger Dubuis is not being carried in the new DNA. Hopefully, the brand reverts back to the DNA and design that made them great in the first place. Its almost a Cartierfication of the style. I'm sorry to see this iconic style lose its energy. This message has been edited by marketsurfer on 2012-09-15 18:33:01
Your comments are very important marketsurfer.
It is the danger Dubuis may face with this watch. When you soften a design, you have the risk to lose too many character.
Being an excalibur fan, your comments are logical. This evolution is a challenge for Dubuis.
Fx
Being an excalibur fan, your comments are logical. This evolution is a challenge for Dubuis.
Fx
Thanks...
...for your great review. Do you know the MSRP (in Euro) für the entry level 42mm Excalibur in stainless steel?
regards
stere
Thank you
Thank you, Fx. I also note a disconnect between the aggressive and very cool nature of the new Excalibur marketing website and the softened nature of the watch. The new marketing would be a perfect fit for the original style Excalibur. I don't mean to be negative, I gave a deep emotional connection with this brand and am not connecting with the new direction.
Thanks FX
As a 36mm watch fan, I did not appreciate the previous Excalibur, I see there a positive evolution where it is more wearable without losing its style.
But at the same time I understand and agree with Marketsurfer, the "extravance" was also part of its soul and isn't it more important after all? Very difficult theme challenge here, overall I see that as positive but it's a matter of taste. Except the microrotor which is absolutely inappropriate espacially when you know the one before.
cheers
Francois