Comments:
A sunburst sand beige dial
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 5396 is a classic, of which I have listed all the existing variants here: Patek Philippe ref. 5396 - All variants to date.
Ref. 5396R-016 is a new warm-toned version featuring a rose gold case and a brilliant sunburst sand beige dial.
credit: @chrono24 (1), @benrsimon (2-3)
For comparison, here are the two versions I was able to try on in Geneva in February 2025.
White gold ref. 5396G-017
Ref. 5396R-016 is a new warm-toned version featuring a rose gold case and a brilliant sunburst sand beige dial.
Of course, it's nothing more than a new dial color, but I like it a lot personally...
Case dimensions: 38.5 x 11.2 mm
credit: @chrono24 (1), @benrsimon (2-3)
For comparison, here are the two versions I was able to try on in Geneva in February 2025.
Rose gold ref. 5396R-011
White gold ref. 5396G-017
For me, this comparison shows just how stunning this new version is.
Finally, here are the studio photos taken and published by Fratello:
Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H
credit: Fratello
Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H
credit: Fratello
So, how do you feel about this new sunburst sand beige dial?
Do you share my enthusiasm?
Thanks for looking.
Best, Emmanuel
The 5396 has a slightly too thick bezel compared to the lugs and the rest of the case and the lugs are a bit too clumsy compared to the perfect case/bezel/lugs execution found on the 5296, 5496 and 5170. It's not a major issue but I personally perfection
The lugs of a watch are like the legs of a lady. In an ideal world, both have to have a flowing elegance 
I think I see what you mean, but 5396 has a very unique charm.
I like 5296 far less. 5496 is wonderful, but it's 39.5 mm instead of 38.5 mm.
And 5170 is a completely different story for me.
Just my feeling of course.
Best, Emmanuel
And 5170 is a completely different story for me.
Just my feeling of course.
Best, Emmanuel
Personally, I always found the 5396 slightly clumsy looking due to the shortness and thickness of the lugs and the thickness of the bezel compared to the size of mid-case.
My favourite classic ref. 96 type cases are the ones of the 5170, the 5296 and the 6196. Perhaps, the 6196 is the best Calatrava in all of Patek's history.
I completely understand how you feel about the 5396,
even if I feel a little differently.
I wanted to love the 6196, but it didn't speak to me when I tried it on...
Again, just a personal feeling.
I'm really glad you feel this way:
it's one I could consider for myself...
Best, Emmanuel 🌸
Best, Emmanuel 🌸
Hello dear Emmanuel: Ref 5396 is a watch I love so much. A classic with a lot of charm which reminds me of some classic Pateks of the past. This new dial version you share today...
... looks sublime: a soft warm color which gives this watch a different character. A very charming character.
You made a very thorough post past year showing all the different version of this reference. A huge reference work you did!
It clearly shows that this watch has a chamaleonic spirit as its character changes -sometimes subtly, some times dramaticaly- with the different case metals, its different indexes and the colors of its dials.
I own the white gold version/opaline dial which had been haunting my soul for years till I had the chance to get mine at the last day of year 2019. I love it so much though I confess I don´t wear it as often as it deserves.
Great shots to share it with us dear Emmanuel! Thank you!
Have a nice weekend!
Abel
Thank you so much dear Salman! Glad you like it. I wished to add a splash of color replacing the more formal black original ones. I felt this would add a touch of informality and sporty looks to...
... my watch I love so much and I liked this combo.
Best cordial regards, Abel
I completely agree with you, dear Abel, 5396 changes completely
with certain dials, indexes and metals.
Your white gold variant with opaline dial is definitely one of the most appealing for me. This reference is all about simplicity and this metal and dial are completely in tune with this identity.
The gorgeous Dauphine hands, in particular, are beautifully showcased in this configuration.
The new version appeals to me very much because I like warm tones: I love rose gold and the sand beige dial seems marvellous.
It's definitely a watch I will try on during my next stay in Paris and it's one I could consider acquiring at some point, who knows?
Thanks for sharing the gorgeous photos of your example and have a great weekend.
Best regards,
Emmanuel