A piece of Breguet Classique Hora Mundi Ref 5717, dropped by here for a while. Glad to be able to view it.
The Hora Mundi Ref 5717 is one
straight-forward, complicated time-zones watch. An initial quick glance,
some may just passed it off as a time-only piece with a moonphase. Of
course the city-window at 6H gave it away.
Most
time-zones or GMT pieces, would have a cluttered dial layout with extra
secondary-hour-hand and a variation of hour-bezel or rehaut-ring.
Typical usage of these time-zones watches are by travelers or business
people who wish to track time at the city they are visiting or calling
(with the primary hour-hand) and their home time (with the
secondary-hour-hand). However, the Hora Mundi Ref 5717 managed to
simplify the aesthetic with a refreshing mechanical instant-jump
time-zone.
A brief rundown of a prototype piece with the Europe-Africa dial ...
The case is either 43mm rose
gold or platinum (as shown in this post). The dial has come in 3
variations : Europe-Africa (per this post), Asia-Oceanic or America. The dial layout is as followed : date at 12H, day/night indicator at 3H ( not moonphase
) and time zone at 6H.Talking about the dial, it consists of 4 parts of which 3 parts are made of gold.Starting
from the outer hour-chapter ring, followed by the large centre piece
with the map which is slightly convex, polished, hand-engraved wave
patterns and the ocean was achieved with multiple coats of lacquer. The
other 2 parts made up of the day/night indicator, with the hand-engraved
cloud portion in gold. The only part not of gold is the blue
background done with lapis lazuli.
The Hora Mundi Ref 5717 has a mechanical memory allowing it to remember two set time-zones.
The first time-zone, just set the home time by using the crown at 3H to select the city at 6H.
After which, set the second time zone using crown at 8H.
The
marvelous thing about the 5717, the date and day/night indicator will
jump together when toggling between the two time zones by depressing the
crown at 8H! Ingenious!
A closer look at the
detailings. Guilloche Hour-chapter with signed Breguet secret
signatures. Beautiful set of blued hands and similarly to both screws
securing the day/night indicator gold-plate.
A close up of the day/night indicator. Sun or moon (in gold too) on the lapis lazuli ...
At another angle ...
The time-zone indicator. Note the finely polished pointed secured with a blued screw ...
View from the side. Case height is 13.55mm. Water resistance rated to 30m.
Sapphire caseback. Within is the automatic movement based on Calibre 777 with a silicon escapement.
Understand 4 patents were filed for this movement, extracted from press release :
The
first was for a timepiece comprising a mechanism with two time zones;
the second covered the display of a time zone on demand via the main set
of hands; the third was for a programmable and reprogrammable
mechanical memory wheel for a timepiece; and the last for a mechanism
for displaying a temporal dimension by means of a dragging hand.
Note the silicon escapement ...
It is
remarkable for Breguet to construct a time-zone piece with such clean
and legible dial-layout. However, achieving simplicity is actually
complicated. The ingenious toggling of two time-zones with synchonise
jump of both date and day-night indication is awesome. Have to see it
to appreciate 
Kong