Independents

There is so much to admire, and even adore, about the Caliber 33 that I feel forced to add some observations should anyone seriously consider buying one - as he should!

Let's start with my version and how I came to choose the one with the moon but with the large seconds hand, that at times reaches under the side of case. The smaller hand in the much smaller subdial did not appear quite in harmony with the entire dial arrangement, at least in pictures. The large hand in its large dial (hardly a sub-dial) is not harmonious either, but better shows the one-two-step dance of the seconds that gives us a clue from the front to the unique nature of the escapement..

I did have the option of the circular calendar placed symetrically opposite the large second dial, but rejected that for a couple of reasons The first was a (for me) difficult to read and unnecessary complication that brought me back into the prosaic world of daily timekeeping. Without the calendar there is an unbroken diagonal from the Moon casting its rays over the ripples of a lake to the far edge of the case. Poetic, while re-enforcing and making maximum use of the tonneau form. With the calendar installed, the lake becomes a pond - a product of city-planning - changing the free and open into the closed-off and contained.

That was a highly subjective viewpoint, so lets get on to the spherical moon. My version has the diamonds set in lapis lazuli. Noble materials and again - poetic! However there is what I consider to be a Major Flaw in the design !

A few days before and a few days after the New Moon the dial shows the moon on the dial as completely dark from the lapis lazuli. So there is no way of telling if the New Moon arrived - or has already left! The same is true of the Full Moon, with an important exception; the diamonds are arranged into concentric circles, so that it is possible to tell the exact day when it has become Full Moon - provided that you have the proper lighting and - better still - a loupe.

Aha! some of you will exclaim. For the New Moon you could look through the transparent back to read it off from the concentric diamonds there.

Hey, not so fast! Today, Feb. 3 at close to 14:00 hours UTC the moon entered its last phase. So what we see is a Half Moon that will grow darker in the coming days.  This is a perfect occasion for setting the moon phase with the pushing tool. But turn over the watch to view the underside, and you will notice that the moon display is not identical, but that there is a darker area, perhaps a good day in advance of the actual moon-time.

Therefore reading off the New Moon by looking at the concentric diamonds on the back becomes an acrobatic and intellectual task.

So much for the moon - and my lazy Sunday afternoon, growing darker in Hamburg.

If I had the choice again it would be without moon (or a smaller moon or a higher moon) while retaining the large seconds.

However again, the second hand can not be hacked. It does its thing, but that's about it. The watch is not self-starting, which does not bother an "old fox" like me. If it runs down completely, wind it up to full. Nothing happens? Don't panic! Give it a tap or two of a finger and it will start off, business again as usual.

Oh, yes - it is a beast to wind. The crown is large enough but has hard-sharp uncomfortable flutes. Now that I am using a thin cotton glove just for that I find myself wearing it often. My fingers are so calloused (also thanks to the Journes) that a person shaking hands with me would guess that I was a rock guitarist and even name the exact instrument I was playing in the group!

Why should I go on? I could, you know, but I will finish by calling it a Leisure Watch - a relaxation from everyday or any kind of activities.

It is beautifully conceived - and with those reservations in mind - beautifully made in every part.  The escapement is stupendous - and I think even makes sense!

Cheers,

amerix

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