AHCI - Hands on review of Karsten Frässdorf's Spirograph Tourbillon

Hands on review of Karsten Frässdorf's Spirograph Tourbillon

Feb 18, 2019,13:46 PM

I have known Karsten Frässdorf for many years, in fact since the adventure of the Fabrication des Montres Normandes (FDMN) whose first steps had been presented at the Salon Belles Montres 2008 in Paris. Time flies! There is no need to beat around the bush at this point: I know that the name of Karsten Frässdorf is associated with brands (FDMN, Heritage Watch Company) or projects (Sauterelle de Chronoswiss) that have disappeared prematurely, even before any chance to see the watches on the shelves. All of this makes Karsten Frässdorf's watches generate a lot of frustration among fans and collectors. They were very beautiful prototypes but they remained somehow virtual because apart from any sales process and therefore accessibility. The frustration was all the greater as these watches were very desirable.

Karsten Frässdorf is above all the talented interpreter of a certain idea of watchmaking that has always seduced me: this watchmaking that favors low frequencies, large balance wheels, stability of behavior and constant forces to obtain a chronometric performance, regular and sustainable. This traditional approach, far from the current trends towards high frequencies enabled by the use of new materials, has an incomparable charm. First, ticking is much more audible and sensual because the number of alternations per second is lower. Then, the oscillations of a large balance wheel are, for me, more pleasant to observe than those of a small balance wheel oscillating at a high frequency. In other words, a low-frequency watch is more noticeable because it solicits the senses more effectively.

In this context, I was very happy to see Karsten Frässdorf a few months ago to present me his new project, which is being put into practice this time. My purpose is not to judge what happened during his previous projects. It is not my role. I am delighted to see that Karsten Frässdorf can once again express himself and highlight his vision of watchmaking. And this time, in a new context with a brand that bears his name.

The watch that symbolizes this new stage of the career of the German watchmaker is the Spirograph Tourbillon. At first glance, we guess who is the watchmaker behind. It is enough to observe the imposing balance wheel, the balance wheel without rim with the two imposing counterweights and the spiral with double terminal curve (Grossmann terminal curve inside and Breguet terminal curve outside) to understand that the watch is directed towards a chronometric objective. The balance is actually like a cross. On the first axis we find the two counterweights. On the second axis, the adjustment system with double screws at both ends. The behavior of the balance wheel, its inertia and the low frequency leave no doubt: Karsten Frässdorf has signed this movement.

The large opening of the dial reveals the main point of attraction of the Spirograph Tourbillon: the unique behavior of the balance wheel. This behavior is indeed unusual. Firstly because of the shape of the balance wheel and the removal of the rim. The low frequency (2,5hz) makes it possible to better appreciate this removal and the oscillation becomes perceptible while following the two weights. And then there's the tourbillon cage that makes a full revolution in one minute. This tourbillon is fascinating. It is both discreet because the balance wheel by itself captures the attention but also very present because, and this is great news, the escapement is very visible. It is then enough to focus on this escapement to appreciate the permanent revolution of the regulating organ.

The theoretical power reserve of the watch is 70 hours. But to achieve optimal behavior and isochronism, Karsten Frässdorf voluntarily limited it to 44 hours thanks to a Maltese cross. However, just turn the crown slightly to make the movement resume when it is stopped.

The opening occupies the entire lower area of the dial and is a real treat for the eyes. There is no tiny tourbillon here nor a tourbillon which doesn't breathe because of a lack of space: it evolves in a frame made for it. We must appreciate the size of the opening because the watch itself is far from being small: the diameter of the case is indeed 45mm! However, at no time does the Spirograph Tourbillon appear to be disproportionate. Simply because the movement, whose casing diameter is 38.3mm, is adapted to this case.

The vocation of the Spirograph Tourbillon is not only chronometric. Its ambition is to accompany his owner in all circumstances. This is why the movement lay-out offers shock protection up to 5000 G and 1000 Gauss anti-magnetic resistance. Note however that the water resistance is only 30 meters.

The Spirograph Tourbillon is available in different versions that of course share many common features: the steel case with gadroon, the 270 degree peripheral railroad, the applied 3-9-12 numerals and indexes and the discreet name of the brand and its location just below the 12. Karsten Frässdorf favored a classic and refined style which is the best approach. Indeed, the dial is already sufficiently animated thanks to the opening on the tourbillon and the regulating organ.

Once this frame is defined, many customizations are available. The dial can feature sunrays or guillochage, the hands, with various shapes can be full or hollowed, the colors can evolve and even the bridge of the tourbillon can be changed. That said, among the existing models, it's the Spirograph Tourbillon Soleil Bleu that really seduced me because of the beautiful reflections of the dial and the shades of light brought by the applied numerals and indexes. Other versions have a more sporty style that also suits the spirit of the watch and its resistance.

The models I had the chance to see had solid casebacks. I can understand the choice. The transparent caseback increases the thickness of the watch and it is already 13.4mm. It fits perfectly to the 45mm case and I'm afraid that a bigger height imbalances it. And then, after all, the main part of the show is located on the dial side and there, we don't miss a kick! But for those who like to enjoy the movements on both sides, Karsten Frässdorf offers an optional see-through caseback at an equivalent price. However, since the plate is that of a pillar caliber, there is not much exciting to see. The solid caseback remains the best choice.

When I put the Spirograph Tourbillon on the wrist, the magic worked in an instant. My eyes were instantly attracted by the opening and it was at this precise moment that I fully appreciated the low frequency: the sound of the movement, the ballet of the regulating organ create a captivating show that almost makes us forget everything else. And it's this show that made me love this watch. The tourbillon and the regulating organ thus manage to justify the size of the case (which finally has a smaller perceived diameter) and even the fact that the peripheral scale is cut off! This detail, which may seem surprising for a chronometer watch is fortunately swept away by the visual rendering of the tourbillon. The end justifies the means in some way.

The commercial start of the Spirograph Tourbillon is now well underway. Collectors have taken orders and some have obviously not hesitated to have their pieces personalized. I look forward to this success. First of all because the watch deserves it. But also because finally, a Karsten Frässdorf 's watch " 100% pure juice" will end up on the wrists of clients. I understand their decisions to acquire one of these pieces! Low frequency is very difficult to forget when we love traditional watchmaking. And Karsten Frässdorf is perhaps one of its best ambassadors.

The Spirograph Tourbillon is available directly from Karsten Frässdorf for a price around 85K CHF for a watch with the Soleil Bleu dial. The price will be modified according to the requested customizations.

For those who want to know more and discover in the metal the Spirograph Tourbillon, Karsten Frassdörf will be present at the next edition of Baselworld in the Watch Incubator area located in the mezzanine of Hall 1.0.

Pros:
+ the charm of low frequency
+ a mesmerizing tourbillon
+ the presentation of the dial, sober and very well executed
+ a balanced watch despite its size

Cons:
- the peripheral scale is cut off what is a bit problematic for a chronometric watch

- the size remains large for smaller wrists

Comments: view entire thread

Thanks for sharing FX!

By: brandon1 : February 18th, 2019-16:41

I've always admired Frässdorf's philosophy of watchmaking, so his projects are always exciting. Hopefully this one can be a commercial success. Cheers, Brandon

Always liked his work

By: nwk00 : February 18th, 2019-18:27

and this is no exception. But will like to know why his previous partnerships failed. It’s not just a single isolated incident but a few. Collectors would like to know they are taken care of after they buy into the work. Many watchmakers have left their e...