Independents

BjoernM21
122

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Maîtres du Temps is a Real Deal, and my favourite is Chapter 3

Steven Holtzman is a genuine enthusiast who in 2005 had the idea of bringing master watchmakers together as a team to create a watch. The first collection was ready in 2007, Chapter 1 with a Tourbillon mono-pusher chronograph movement. Eventually, this model was available with a tonneau-shaped case as well as a "round" one (shown above). While members of the team for this model were Roger Dubuis, Peter Speake-Marin and Christophe Claret, the watch was essentially the product of the latter. It was also built by Claret's manufacture.

The presented team for Chapter 2 (above and below) was Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin, though, the design was still strongly related to the "language" typical for Christophe Claret. The parts for this instanteous triple calendar were also still built by Claret, but Maîtres du Temps assembled them now in its own atelier.

Chapter 3 (shown below) got a new and more traditional design language. The team of master watchmakers was Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler. Kari Voutilainen conceived the completely bespoke movement and had largely a free hand with it. Only the roller displays (by now a signature design of Maîtres du Temps watches) had to be integrated. The rollers were now used for a second zone time display as well as a day/night-display for it. Andreas Strehler then took over the prototype for the production development. He came also up with an ingenious (and patented) "window-system" for the second time display, operated by the pusher in the crown. Andreas Strehler builds the movement parts, while Maîtres du Temps procured now the other parts themselves; they also build the watches in their own atelier in Neuchâtel.

Seeing Kari Voutilainen's Vingt-8 GMT side by side with the Chapter 3 it becomes obvious who conceived originally this model. But Steven Holtzman worked with  his own designer who created, e.g., an absolute beauty of a case. The concave bezel of the Chapter 3 leads to an interesting and elegant touch. The slightly bigger case at 42 mm sits very well on my wrist, giving the watch enough presence without feeling bulky.

Maîtres du Temps offers customizing of the Chapter 3. Unfortunately, this seems not to be communicated. After more than ten years the watches are hardly known even within enthusiasts' circles. But Steven Holtzman's concept is along the lines what Max Büsser has later on created with MB&F: Hiring master watchmakers to engineer new movements, have the parts then be produced by top specialists, and build the watches in your own atelier.

At least with the Chapter 3 there were not only master watchmakers standing around for photos and testimonials, but Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler have really created a new watch together. Being a fan of these two masters, this co-operation was initally the main attraction for me to add this model to my collection. How beautiful it actually is, I found out only when I had the watch in my hands. The many interesting details (like the bezel shape) I did not check by looking only at photos.

Björn  

Site Info.