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Watch Service – It’s Inevitable…
... Or is it?
If you own a car and
you log a lot of miles on that car, then you know that car is going to need service. Eventually.
Of course, the longer you put it off the worse it is for the car. And the pocket book. The same is true for watches, particularly
those timepieces sporting a bunch of complications. Yes, every mechanical watch will require
service. Eventually. And like a car, the longer the interval
between services, the more costly that service can become. When regular service for a minute repeater watch comes due, particularly one with bird automata on the dial, the owner is likely to receive a bill similar to one received for
the service of a Porsche.
For those who have several
cars, as well as several watches, service bills can (wait for the
understatement)... run high.
Image Courtesy of ABlogToWatch
Image Courtesy of Herrods
Case In Point: About two years ago, my girlfriend mentioned that her Rolex Air-King wasn’t keeping time. I suggested she take it to the Rolex Service Center in Beverly Hills. A year later when it stopped running altogether, it was less of a suggestion and more of an imperative. As it turned out, the watch had never been serviced so the service center recommended the replacement of several parts, and of course, a full service for the timepiece. It would take approximately 4 weeks at a cost of $880. When I was told the news, I reacted by asking, “Only eight hundred and eighty dollars?”
“Only?” she replied. “What do you mean, ONLY?!?”
“The watch has never
been serviced,” I answered, “so I thought it was going to cost more like twelve
or thirteen hundred. Frankly, you got
off light.”
Over the years I have
learned there is the truth. And there is
the correct response. While this was the
truth, it was not the correct response. Wondering
what she would do without her precious Rolex for the next month, we adjusted
the bracelet on my Submariner and she rocked that until the return of her
Air-King. Have to admit, it looked
really good, but please don’t tell her that. Four quick weeks later, her Rolex returned showroom perfect. Delivered in a swanky green Rolex pouch, the timepiece
was polished to a mirror finish and the bracelet looked as if it had never been
worn. You could almost smell that “new
watch smell”. On top of that, Rolex
informed us that unless something unforeseen and/or unfortunate occurred, the
watch would not require service again for another ten years. Ten years… that’s pretty darn good. It got me thinking about the so-called maintenance
free watch.
To be sure, there are
a couple of watch brands that have created almost maintenance free timepieces -
Jaeger LeCoultre and Ulysse Nardin have really been the pioneers. The Freak, from Ulysse Nardin, features two
escapement wheels entirely etched in silicon instead of the traditional steel,
thus no lubrication necessary. [In the above photograph, note that one escapement is aqua-colored, the other is purple] Since its
introduction in 2001, hundreds of Freaks have been sold and UN claims only a
very few have had to come back for what is deemed “unusual and/or abnormal servicing” (as the
firm puts it).
Jaeger LeCoultre’s
Extreme Lab series utilizes ceramic, lubricant-free ball bearings in the
winding mechanism, carbonitride easium
(from nuclear engineering) to replace traditional jewels, synthetic crystalline
black diamonds in place of the traditional ruby pallet stones, various carbon
fibers, platinum iridium, and graphite powder instead of traditional
lubricants. The utilization of such extreme
materials has led to the exclusive use of these timepieces in the most extreme environments. The Extreme Lab operates successfully at temperatures
as low as minus forty (-40) degrees Fahrenheit (which I'm told is also -40C), where traditional lubricants
would most certainly freeze, making it the ideal timepiece for the Arctic. A definite necessity next time I visit the
North Pole.
Definitely worth mentioning in this post are a few other
brands, such as Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Omega, also making sizable investments in the pursuit of new materials that require less (or no) maintenance. Patek uses their “Advanced Research” line of
watches to introduce innovations such as the ‘Pulsomax’ escape wheel and lever,
both made entirely out of ‘Silinvar’ – PP’s version of silicon. Panerai showcases their inroads through the “Lab-ID”
line, usually with a piece made entirely out of carbon. Rolex and Omega always seem to be at the
forefront of producing timepieces that utilize anti-magnetic and anti-wear-and-tear materials.
In an industry that will forever be challenged to provide top notch
service and repair for hundreds of thousands of watches every year, creating and manufacturing a timepiece that truly requires
no service whatsoever would be a sound achievement. If I was a gambling man, and I am, my money
would be on Rolex.
Have A Great Weekend Everyone!
- Scott
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Watch Service – It’s Inevitable…
... Or is it? If you own a car and you log a lot of miles on that car, then you know that car is going to need service. Eventually. Of course, the longer you put it off the worse it is for the car. And the pocket book. The same is true for watches, partic...
Very interesting article, Scott. you are right, service is not considered as important, while it really is.
You are also right on the impact of silicon " solutions " when it comes to service. The time is much longer than with a more classic solution. Now, only the Extreme Lab One used silicon and very technical and innovative solutions. The " II " had the rotor...
Thanks, My Friend...
... I believe the brand that pulls this off and can make it affordable is on to something. It would be an achievement comparable to Willy Wonka's Everlasting Gobstopper.
Please Don't Take Me...
... The wrong way. It's a lot of watch for $40,000 US. But not a lot of people can afford such a piece.
Scott! A wonderful read. And well illustrated; who wouldn't love the watch collection shot?
But this brought up something I've not seen discussed in these pages. (Probably has been, but I'm a relative newcomer.) To wit: watch winders. I don't have time now to dig through my files (for I'm certain I saved it), but I read a very convincing short e...
I Tend To Agree...
... With the leave it in the drawer approach. I used to keep my watches on a winder, but then realized I was just wearing them out. And it's correct, if you have a watch with a perpetual calendar complication, keeping the watch running is an imperative. S...
Thanks, yes it does. On the one hand it seems a "no-brainer." On the other, how many millions will be made in this year alone from the sale of such devices?
As with most things, one learns slowly to trust oneself as one gets deeper into this interest. Very helpful. Thanks again. FH
Not sure I agree
Not sure I agree on the “drawer” approach. If it’s not running then the oils and lubricants may dry out and causing all kids of problems. That’s why I belief manual watches should be Lind on regular basis as well regardless if you wear them or not. On ano...
To be sure. In fact that's what I've been doing; it just seemed to make sense.
Good to hear this supported by your pros. Many thanks for all responses. FH
Nice read! The topic is interesting for sure!
It would be an interesting thing to list all the ideal components for a service free watch. When you read George Daniels' books for example, nothing but a co-axial escapement would work. And you need to go Omega then (or Roger Smith). JLC used to make the...
I Suppose The Most Important Aspect...
... Would be the conquering of unneeded and/or unwanted friction. Metal on metal is never a good solution, just ask those people who had hip replacement with the wrong device and are now living in constant discomfort... but I digress. It would not have to...