THE MECHANISMS IN THE MÉMOIRE 1
BASE MOVEMENT
1. Automatic Winding System
The automatic winding system in the Mémoire 1 uses a mechanism that functions bi-directionally. Thanks to an eccentric, small dimensioned winding mass, this makes it possible to combine together technique and aesthetics perfectly. The barrel is equipped with a high density spring that allows a four-day power reserve. The energy is transferred to a gear train with the best and most modern teeth profiles, which ensures optimum performance. The specific shape of the wheel arms along with their colour lends a strong visual appearance to this unique ML 128 calibre by Maurice Lacroix.
2. Escapement
This mechanism is equipped with a special balance wheel, which features a mass inertia of 8 and a frequency of 28,800 semioscillations per hour (4 hertz). The escapement was developed specifically for this new calibre and completely adapted to its complication. The balance wheel underscores the optical lightness and airy impression of the entire regulation system with its axle made of transparent material. Furthermore, this mechanism is equipped with a precision adjustment that was developed by Maurice Lacroix and combines functionality and pure design at the highest level.
3. Movement Design
The Maurice Lacroix movements are not only characterized by their high technical quality but also by their aesthetic elegance. The outstanding aesthetic appearance of the ML 128 calibre reaches all the way to the shape of the wheel arms, where every effort has been made to make a connection between tradition and modernity. In the Mémoire 1, two pieces of information are provided on the small plaques mounted on the base movement: One of them indicates the name of the watchmaker, who assembled this Grande Complication in the Maurice Lacroix atelier and the other displays the time when the next recommended service should take place.
COMPLICATIONS
1. Mémoire Mechanism
A Mémoire mechanism forms the heart of the ingenious mechanical memory of the Mémoire 1. This mechanism consists of an ensemble of components, which are exceptionally complex both in their realization as well as in their functionality.
2. The Different Parts of the Mémoire Mechanism
The Mémoire mechanism is composed of three main component groups: Starting at the bottom, the first is the carrier device and provides a connection between the base movement and the complication. The second is composed of the coupling and the chronograph heart for the resetting and represents the “chronograph block”, which is all of the components that are responsible for the functions of a traditional chronograph. The third is the “modus block”. This consists of the Mémoire heart “Chrono”, an intermediate gear wheel with two levers, the Mémoire heart “Time” and the mobile carrier wheel. This makes possible both the mechanical memory as well as the change between the two modes of the Mémoire 1. This last element above all is exceptionally complex in both its realization and adjustment.
This complex mechanism controls the change from the “Time” to the “Chrono” modus and vice versa.
Among other things, this is possible through a lever that calls up information on either the “Time” cam heart and thus shows the current time, or on the Mémoire chronograph heart where the chronograph timing is shown. If the upper lever (in other words, “Time”) operates the “Time” heart, both levers are parallel but separated by the mobile carrier wheel. On the other side (running counter), the lower lever (in other words, “Chrono”) releases the “Chrono” heart and the other way around.
3. The Three Mémoire Mechanisms
The Mémoire 1 has three memory mechanisms – one for each type of indication or, in other words, for the hours, minutes and seconds. The Mémoire mechanism for the hours is located at the 12, that for the minutes at the 9 and for the seconds, at the 6. Thanks to an opening in the watch dial, this last indication remains visible.
4. Coupling Lever
This lever takes over the function of a traditional column wheel, which is responsible for controlling the chronograph functions (start/stop). Via this component, it is possible to act directly on the chronograph pliers.
Once the chronograph has been started, the coupling lever opens the chronograph pliers and thus releases the gear train so that timekeeping can begin. When stopping, this operation is executed in reverse and the gear train is stopped with the help of the same pliers.
5. Hammer Lever
The hammer lever is responsible for the resetting. Its form and the different positions of the hammer level ring allow the chronograph cam level to rise or fall and thus execute a resetting.
6. Release Lever
The primary function of the release lever is the control of the modus change. During release, the two rings control the three Mémoire mechanisms with the help of the three locking cones and thus make possible the change between the two Mémoire 1 modes (time and chronograph).
The release lever is made up of:
- a locking cone ring with 3 locking cones,
- a ring with a release spring, which integrates the “va et vient” (comes and goes) and the “tout ou rien” (all or nothing) systems.
Explanation of the two systems mentioned last:
- “Va et vient” is a beak on the release spring that enables the indication of the modus change.
- “Tout ou rien” or the “all or nothing” escapement is a safety system equipped with a spring, which connects the locking cone ring with the release spring and thus causes the components to move along the entire path in order to guarantee the perfect functioning of the change.
7. 537 Components
Each Mémoire 1 movement is assembled from 537 components. This Grande Complication is the most complicated 3-hand watch in the world.
THE DESIGN OF THE WATCH
When designing the Mémoire 1, the objective was finding a new aesthetic code and creating a unique visual statement that would make this timepiece immediately recognizable. However, special attention was placed on integrating this development within the new design code for the Maurice Lacroix brand with its overall defined values of PERSONALITY, PURITY AND SIMPLICITY .
1. Dial and Hands
The simplicity of the indication was challenging on its own. How is it possible to adequately create an exceptional and unique appearance for a three-hand watch which is in line with its extraordinary movement?
The triggering element was the date disc – from its angle and thus its unique drive a strong sense of dynamics resulted.
The Mémoire 1 dial is built around this date disc and consists of two main elements. The first is shaped like a soup bowl, and includes the angled date disc and shows the modus indication. The second is bellshaped, and covers the entire underside of the dial. So that the hours disc is visible, a parallel opening from 4 to 12 to 8 o’clock was made. A transparent disc replaces the normal hour hands, and a triangular indicator at 12 o’clock shows the hours. This atypical construction also allows the lateral visibility of the seconds indication. A slanted hand was developed for the precise and exact indication of the seconds. The hands for the minutes and the modus indication are skeletonized.
2. Case
We have constructed an equally spectacular case around the dial and its unique indications. The round form underscores our values for purity and simplicity. This creation is primarily intended to emphasize the seconds indication. For this reason, a construction with a “floating bezel” was realized that offers a never-seen-before side view.
An unbelievable contrast was thus created – the elements seem to float and emote incomparable power and personality at the same time.
In order to underscore the geometric purity and lend it a noble touch, the case is manufactured from white gold – with the same care down to the last detail. Polished and electro-eroded surfaces provide a never-seen-before contrast. The electro-erosion also leave an optical impression of a fine, matte hammered treatment.
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