Most Extreme Dive Watches

Aug 01, 2021,15:02 PM

9 of the most over-engineered Dive Watches I can think of at the moment. Please help me add more suggestions. I'm writing this post because the lockdown made life so dull, and I want to reminisce the good old days under the sea.

The Hublot Oceanographic 4000m

Credit: Unique Watch Guide

At 48mm, this beast released around 2011 features an internal rotating bezel, screw down crowns, and a quick release strap system. It was priced around USD19,000 for the titanium version. 

Pita Oceana 

Credit: Hodinkee

This watch is very unique, featuring a crown-less design. The watch is adjusted via turning the caseback, which activates magnets to adjust the time, making it hermatically protected from water ingress. There are a few versions available, ranging from 2000m to 5000m water resistance. The creator Mr Aniceto Jimenez is an ACHI member. The 5000m version costs about USD$6400. Fellow forum member cfdfire told me about this wonderful oddball.

Helberg CH1 - A Homage to the Deep Sea Special

Credit: Oceanictime Blogspot

This oddball is a tribute to the Rolex prototype called the Deep Sea Special. It is not a large watch in diameter (42mm), but rather, extremely thick, at around 27mm in height. It reminds me of the Corum Bubble Watch. There are 6000m and 3000m water resistance versions, and a few variations in case materials. It costs less than USD1500 according to sources. 

Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive

Credit: Escapement Magazine

Coming in at 46mm, this beautiful piece has a water resistance of 1000m. The crown guard protecting the Helium Escape Valve is published to be removable. The price is quite good, at USD$13,2000. 

Richard Mille RM28

Source: Ablogtowatch

Extremely avante garde is what I think of when I see this piece. It is like a piece of art, in a brawny way. It is drop-dead beautiful (or may I say Handsome). The water resistance is pretty normal at 300m, for a dive watch. But seeing one reminds me of Sylvester Stallone in The Expendables 3. It is a very expensive watch, coming in north of USD50,000 (from some sources). Brauner has one I think (wow, he is so blessed).

IWC Deep One, Two and Three

Deep One: Credit: Antiquorum

Deep Two: Credit: Worldtempus

Deep 3: Credit: Hodinkee

Wow these are gorgeously over-engineered. Nico wrote about the Deep One some time ago. 

Angular Momentum Dive Tec

Credit: Ablogtowatch

This brand is still around. The watch is very unique as you can see. It is made of unique Stainless Steel, and features a water resistance of 500m. The price is around USD8000 from my estimates (the price is not listed on the website).  Does any member have this piece?

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How about,

 By: Juliusotto : August 1st, 2021-15:39
JLC Master Compressor Diving GMT or the chronograph model at 1000m ?

Yes both very worthy models

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-16:17
Quite sad they don’t make them anymore. I think the brand lost the macho masculine flavour along the years. Now even most masculine piece in the catalogue, the Polaris Mariner looks more gentlemanly in design. I used to like JLC. They are sleeping I guess... 

Love both compressors

 By: Juliusotto : August 1st, 2021-16:28

Hold on to this piece

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-16:29
It may become a classic in due time. It is really functional and the titanium shows a blue sheen under water. I had the navy seals alarm.

This two stays with me

 By: Juliusotto : August 1st, 2021-16:37

One of the greatest!

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-16:24

Here it is!

 By: Cookies : August 2nd, 2021-14:39
Credit: Fratellowatches I'd rate the design a 10/10 for the watch case. The only weakness to this watch is the strap which is proprietary - notice the lugs will not allow aftermarket straps easily. There is another version (credit to fellow member Crown C...  


 By: brauner : August 1st, 2021-16:32
Not so bad Credit: ...  

Very stylish

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-16:34
I like it Brauner. Always great to hear from you.

Here it is

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-16:51
Credit to Superdoc on Omegaforum ...  

Despite SINN UX is a quartz movement..

 By: janef : August 1st, 2021-16:53
It is still the ultimate diver’s watch.. 7 years battery power Unlimited water depth Anti reflection under the water “Almost” scratch resistance casing Amazing wearability due to very slim case Very affordable pricing Minimal maintenance cost Amazing clar...  

+1, top contender for sure 👌

 By: holdemchamp1225 : August 1st, 2021-17:03

Yes indeed

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-17:03
Almost perfect. Beautiful second hand wobble and an unreal viewing angle due to virtually no refraction. (I wanted this so much. But I currently live very far from a Sinn AD, and the battery change is a challenge. If I am back in Singapore, it is so easy ... 

Among all these crazy machines,

 By: Mary Anny : August 1st, 2021-17:06
I would not forget the Fifty Fathoms X Fathoms!!!! I've seen it here at some stage...

It is my favourite ultimate diving watch

 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-17:15
It’s design is so specialised that it cannot really be worn out properly in other situations. That is perfect for purpose.


 By: Cookies : August 1st, 2021-17:15
The ultimate dive watch in my mind. It takes #1 to me.


 By: Gelato Monster : August 1st, 2021-18:00


 By: Weems@8 : August 1st, 2021-20:30
Going extreme is fun. Keep on doing this Cookies, to see how it went wrong. Why watch brands make the mistake to loose grip on esthetics. Omega with it’s ploprof is unique, it is only made the way that design is there for it’s function for professionals. ... 

I vote the Nataf era Zenith Defy Xtreme series....

 By: kesharoo : August 2nd, 2021-04:42
Big, bold, not really photogenic and downright unsellable! Sorry no pic 'cos it hurts my eyes. Haha.

Oh yes

 By: Cookies : August 2nd, 2021-08:11
I totally forgot about this range. They were so chunky and some designs were so illegible. I wonder what they did with the excess stock?

Seiko “Tuna” models 50mm and above

 By: cazalea : August 2nd, 2021-12:04
Yes, there are smaller models but they aren’t as excessively over-engineered as you requested. The original 1975, 51mm watch aka Grandfather Tuna Newer PADI version “only” 50mm The 48mm hybrid Arnie Tuna Cazalea ...  

Yes the Tuna's have terrific design

 By: Cookies : August 2nd, 2021-12:33
I think they've got the design spot-on. I like the strap which can be easily wrapped around a thick neoprene suit. Excellent response there.=D

Here is my favourite piece

 By: Cookies : August 2nd, 2021-13:31
Credit: touchofmodern ...  

Yes! I prefer the gold tone.

 By: iceheller : August 2nd, 2021-13:47
Seem 1 in person more than a decade ago. That piece is a beast.

Here are two more suggestions…

 By: MTR : August 2nd, 2021-23:22
Rolex Deepsea and Blancpain X Fathoms Best Thomas ...  

Best choices!

 By: Cookies : August 2nd, 2021-23:38
Thanks MTR!


 By: MTR : August 5th, 2021-15:46
I am very surprised now... LOLLLLL


 By: amanico : August 5th, 2021-17:15

Good list

 By: sschew : August 3rd, 2021-00:55
Can confirm that the Hublot 4000m Oceanographic is badass!!!

We could also consider the Harpoon and Raider Deep Blue from Favre-Leuba

 By: Age_of_Surfaces : August 3rd, 2021-13:12
I have the smaller - 42mm - version of the latter and it's a sea monster. ...  

Wow first encounter

 By: Cookies : August 3rd, 2021-13:55
I like the design. It is very legible, especially the thick hour hand. Gonna read more about these marvels now.