Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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Baselworld 2013: Jaquet Droz - the Complicated Pieces and the Lady 8
The second part of the article will focus on two fascinating, exceptional offerings: a new line for the ladies and complicated pieces!
10. Lady 8 series:
'8' is the common theme of the watch. See even the buckle is '8' shaped. The stone above the dial is aventurine and a complete sphere.
The entire case construction has so much more in common with jewellery than with watchmaking:
Surely, this is the Anita Ekberg of all watches!
Beautifully executed clasp:
Already presented last year but this year we could admire a monochrome version of this masterpiece:
The dial is abundant with detail, just like their Petite Heure Minute Relief watches:
Beneath a minute repeater the centre of attraction - quite literally - is an animated scene of a bird's nest:
Ornamentation throughout...
... although the back would be admirable even without. Note the large cathedral gongs braiding the movement several times:
The result is an theatrical play well befitting a company with a history such as JD:
It is the newest and most spectacular implementation of their historical "bird" series.
The singing bird automaton movement is a hand-winding mechanical movement featuring a push button automaton triggering mechanism.
The movement, Jaquet Droz Cal. 610, has a power reserve of 40 hours and beats at a frequency of 21,600 v.p.h. The automaton is entirely located on the dial side. It is composed of four elements: An air pump driven by a piston, an air storage, air whistle and the moving bird itself:
Instead of big blow, they put in a small "pump" to make it move and sing. The sapphire crystal whistle system is a micromechanical marvel:
Its the cage that demands most attention.
At 10 o'clock the all important air exit is located which allows the sound to leave the watch case:
A crown at 2 o'clock controls the watch and activates the automaton... 
... which is exactly what we are about to do in the following video:
Please note that the timepiece is not finalised yet, and some work still has to be done with the sound transmission.
Bottom line: A fantastic vintage for JD in 2013! The brand has clearly expanded its offerings but moreover, both the Lady 8 as well as the automatons have shown how far the JD concept can successfully be driven. If this is the path that JD intends follow we can be sure to see many, many exiting pieces in the future.
'8' is the common theme of the watch. See even the buckle is '8' shaped. The stone above the dial is aventurine and a complete sphere.
The entire case construction has so much more in common with jewellery than with watchmaking:
At first I had to think 'I know it, I know it...'
YES:
Well, same 'mother' (Swatch Group), same president... But that's too easy. There is too much more to it:
Case, dial and the sphere accentuate the voluptuous shape of the watch...
Surely, this is the Anita Ekberg of all watches!
On its back: Piguet's Cal. 1153:
Beautifully executed clasp:
This new line is not only this - it represents a conceptual change at JD. While feminine watches were alway offered by the brand they were mere 'feminised' (smaller, MOP, diamonds etc.) versions of existing timepieces.
This one is totally new: it takes JD's signature '8' from the dial and transforms it into the defining theme of the case. It represents eternity, infinity and completeness.
Moreover I can only imagine what creative potential is hidden in the sphere - but my mouth is shut, I am not giving ideas for free ;-)
While I can see where the inspiration comes from (Breguet's La Reine de Naples) I find this much more comprehensive and convincing. Let me say this loud:
This is a ladies' watch many men will be envious about!
11. Les Ateliers d'Art: The Bird Repeater
Already presented last year but this year we could admire a monochrome version of this masterpiece:
The dial is abundant with detail, just like their Petite Heure Minute Relief watches:
Beneath a minute repeater the centre of attraction - quite literally - is an animated scene of a bird's nest:
Ornamentation throughout...
... although the back would be admirable even without. Note the large cathedral gongs braiding the movement several times:
The result is an theatrical play well befitting a company with a history such as JD:
12. Les Ateliers d'Art: The Charming Bird:
JD did the impressive feat of miniaturising a fully function automaton to fit into a wristwatch. Not only that, this is a complication with theatre and sound!
It is the newest and most spectacular implementation of their historical "bird" series.
The singing bird automaton movement is a hand-winding mechanical movement featuring a push button automaton triggering mechanism.
The movement, Jaquet Droz Cal. 610, has a power reserve of 40 hours and beats at a frequency of 21,600 v.p.h. The automaton is entirely located on the dial side. It is composed of four elements: An air pump driven by a piston, an air storage, air whistle and the moving bird itself:
Instead of big blow, they put in a small "pump" to make it move and sing. The sapphire crystal whistle system is a micromechanical marvel:
Even on the assembled watch its mechanism is well exposed:
The watch itself is not exactly petite: its 18-carat white gold case has a diameter of 47 mm and a height of 15.65 mm (main case) and 22.80 mm (bird globe), respectively. Well, the petite heure minute is there as well but probably not in the centre of attraction...
Its the cage that demands most attention.
At 10 o'clock the all important air exit is located which allows the sound to leave the watch case:
A crown at 2 o'clock controls the watch and activates the automaton...
... which is exactly what we are about to do in the following video:
Please note that the timepiece is not finalised yet, and some work still has to be done with the sound transmission.
The Charming Bird comes with the "box" which looks like a "cage".....
Overall a stunning timepiece that certainly will rise the brand's appreciation among discerning collectors who search for the stylish unusual!Bottom line: A fantastic vintage for JD in 2013! The brand has clearly expanded its offerings but moreover, both the Lady 8 as well as the automatons have shown how far the JD concept can successfully be driven. If this is the path that JD intends follow we can be sure to see many, many exiting pieces in the future.
I am saying because I think in today's watchmaking world there are so many technically and/or aesthetically advanced and complicated pieces - but yet there is actually (in my view) very little that leaves a lasting impression. These JD pieces do so - they are consistent with the brand's heritage and represent concise interpretations of their respective themes. And - most importantly - they touch one's soul!
Thanks for reading - and Ken, it was a blast working together with you on this article!
Cheers,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-07-16 02:38:28
BaselWorld 2013: Jaquet Droz (an international collaboration)
In a true Purists' spirit this presentation of this year's Basel novelties came to fruition by means of a globe-spanning international collaboration between Ken (KIH) and Magnus (Ornatus-Mundi): Ken: "I was fortunately invited for preview for Jaquet Droz ...
Baselworld 2013: Jaquet Droz - the Complicated Pieces and the Lady 8
The second part of the article will focus on two fascinating, exceptional offerings: a new line for the ladies and complicated pieces! 10. Lady 8 series: '8' is the common theme of the watch. See even the buckle is '8' shaped. The stone above the dial is ...
Fascinating...
I was at a watch showing in D.C. where JD was presenting. They did not have the chiming bird watch yet, but their pieces were beautiful. Thank you for the excellent report. Eric
The Charming Bird ...only if I had the money !!!
This will be the first watch I will buy ... only if I had the money !!!
You still have time to save...
its just a (functional) prototype at the moment ;-) Magnus
Here's my Eclipse
Just wanted to share a pic of my Eclipse that I picked up a short while ago. It wears very comfortably on the wrist. I just found a "new" brand" I admire and will follow closely. ...
Wonderful piece, IMO...
... The moonphase is very interesting, and eight starts.... Very nice. Ken
Thank you both for the wonderful report. It has been a long time since a comprehesive J*D
review. I think the recent automaton watches are great works. They show a link to the original Pierre Jaquet Droz and they demonstrate that the modern J*D can continue the tradition of mastering micromechanics. But I don't think these were made for the 'a...
Long time...
since Basel 2012, right? How times have changed on PPro... ;-) I also think the Grande Heure GMT is a fantastic watch. I admire the expertise and skill behind the creation of such comparatively simple pieces a lot, particularly since with JD there is a st...
Love the ss
Especially and exclusively the silver dial one,I'm a blue dial person however w I fel short from loving their ss version... The brown seems integrating ... I believe checking them live would yield a different opinion. Thanks for the report . Faisal
Yes, seeing is believing...
.. depending on your preference for size, I would still recommend to try black one, though... :-) My personal taste.... and YMMV! Thank you for the comment! Ken
